smudga

PM replied to

nice Hooch.. thanks for that and it looks like this....

You could buy my Nismo system !! Best system for a zed....

I did do one when it was first put on the car.... I'll have a look to see if I can find it. It gives the same '350' sound as the standard but just. Deeper and louder with the foot down... Your stereo will become redundant!!

Thanks guys..... best sound IMO....

ALL NOW SOLD...These are the other parts I have for sale....... 20mm front and rear Eibach spacers... £145 + postage excellent condition NOW SOLD Genuine 350Z boot carpet £40 + postage NOW SOLD Zed wheel centres fit Rays wheels not sure about other wheels £20 NOW SOLD Stuart B toneau cover as new.....£25 + postage NOW SOLD all at SG8 postcode. Thanks any questions let me know

Sad to part with the Zed but good news is that we now have some parts for sale any questions just let me know..... exhaust first other parts in seperate post. Complete genuine Nismo exhaust system Cat back in excellent condition. back box, mid pipe & 'Y' pipe. I bought the system new and fitted it to the car when new . The braid wrap on the flexibles are showing the usual signs of wear but there were no leaks with the system on the car. £800 collected SG8 postcode Pics...... Y pipe briading

Thanks guys - pads & discs, ordered yesterday arrived this morning - brilliant!

Just for the record the two versions..........

No experience of the MR2 but had 2 scoobs & loved them both, even better than the wifes zed!! Sti is much better car than the WRX,better spec(brakes suspension etc) tough as old boots & a bit softer than the Evo - Evo is a better driver if you're pushing hard. Maybe go for the Blobeye if you can but you might get a 'Hawkeye' if you lucky, nicer shape but has the 2.5 engine as opposed to the 2 litre - also a plus, as said before is the PPP better drive & less lag than the standard STi. If you come accross a JDM version in either, don't discount it - even better car. Twin scroll turbo, all 2.0 litre, nitrided crank, quick rack, better ratios & rear wash wipe! this is the engine that Prodrive used as the base for the rally cars they used to built. Where else can you get a 4 door family saloon that'll leave most performace cars behind..... 4WD.... Oh and dont forget the noise

Came across this, 700bhp rear wheel drive... interesting but seems they have pinched the rear end off the GTR!!

Sorry to be fussy, but the colour is actually called 'Night Blue' .. not midnight and a pic to add.... http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y28/Smudga/smallclean_zps9d045a2a.jpg[/img]"]

Day time shot... http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y28/Smudga/smallclean_zps9d045a2a.jpg[/img]"]

Night time shot....

oohh so looking forward to this as already said well done..

Paid & PM'd look forward to this !!

Guys, Some of you may have seen my earlier post on replacing the oil pressure sender unit as the in dash gauge was reading low and a dealer had confirmed that when using a seperate gauge the pressure was OK. Well its a long story.... but after new sump, filter, oil & pressure sensor, it is exactly the same... when on idle at engine warm the gauge reads just about 0, at about 2K revs it will be around the first mark & 3-4K revs and above will be around the 50-60psi mark alll when engine is at correct running temp. On cold first start up its well up to & just over the mark between 60 & 120psi but as it warms it just sinks back to the above. Does anyone else have this issue or any suggestion as to what it might be??? My thoughts are either oil pump, pressure relief valve or faulty wiring from sender to gauge - but because of the high cold start pressure I'm tending to discount the gauge issue. I'm going to get my local indi to set up a seperate gauge to see what the reading actually is, but any advice would be most helpful. Is it likely that the oil pump could be an issue, car has done just 50K miles Thanks

Well if anyone wants to know the answer... they come pre gapped & ready to install.

Andy, As above a good guide as have just done the same, but I have a suggestion or two... 1. You don't need to remove the strut brace. The plastic cover is in 2 halves and can be removed with it in place. Also the filter housing & pipework up to the throttle bodies can be slid out from under the strut brace. 2. Just disconnect the wiring plug from the MAF sensor & leave it in the housing as this will stop it getting any dirt in it or being knocked in the engine bay. 3. Disconnect the wiring plug from the throttle bodies and the two pipes and they can then be removed completely from the car, again just to help keep any dirt out and to save twisting the pipework too much. these 2 pipes do have coolant through them so be prepared for a little dribble or two. 4. With the strut brace still in place as long as you have a 3/8" socket set with a 6" extension bar you can still get th the foremost plug on the nearside of the car. I'm not being critical as without this guide I wouldn't have known where to start, but just thought that my experience may help others, as getting the brace back in place can be a pain.

DoogyRev x2 Jay x 1 Keyser x1 Smudge x 1 Theheff x1 Ebized x 1 glrnet x 1 ianphampton x 1 Vansman66 x 1 mbs x 1 Rodgeevans x1 manphibian x 1 Steve 350Z x 1 thetranquilbass x 1 Mr Polish x 1 Bounty Bar Kid x1 Buster x 1 Humpy x 1 Ewan221 x 1 Kev T x 1 martinmac x 4 ChrisS X 1 Smudga x1 please

Now there's an idea ta!

Having aquired the correct plugs for the 313 HR engine, anyone know if they come with the gap set or are like any normal plug & you have to set the correct gap? If so what is the gap supposed to be Thank you fine people

Ahh yes oil full to the right place & its still as clean as a whistle Thanks for the PDF though most helpful... ........downside from the stealers £125 for the switch..

At the last service I pointed out that the oil pressure on the in car gauge was reading low generally and was advised that it was the sensor that was faulty as a seperate gauge was connect and it read OK. Seems to have got worse, disapearing to 0 and the oil light coming on when hot & at idle in traffic!! Anyone tell me where this is on an HR (313) engine, is it a doable job at home and the best place to get one. Thanks

Thanks Will... just got to get them in now