Rob_Quads

Liking this a lot purley to cover over all the scratches.

Hmm now this combined with an black alcantara retrim

Shame its not an old Saxo - managed to get them down to 3 seconds with no damage

I think your only way in would be to squeeze something through the back side of the glass and try and catch the button.

How did you lock it with the keys in the car?

Sorry to disagree m8, but If they'd said from the outset they didn't know how to do it. I could have walked away. Instead they brought the car back and rang me later to ask if the satnav talked. Poor customer service.

 

I found out later they'd been ringing the local Nissan dealer when they realised they cocked up. On a £2000 job this is not acceptable. Hard on them, it was harder on my wallet for the job and the wheel repair after they denied it.

My Post was in relation to the original post (note the post times being very close)

I think your being a little harsh on the company. To get the factory sat nav is far from a 'standard' job, blame nissan for that. It required lots of hacking around, splicing into the existing looms etc. There are no off-the shelf adapters which can be used to do it.

With modern cars mostly being multiplex unless you know exactly what cables to touch you stay away. You can easily blow up ECUs by connecting up the wrong wire. That little mistake can then costs hundreds to put right. There is a big difference between someone doing it them selves because they are taking all the risk into thier own hands. I would also be interested to know how long they spend researching which are the right cables to connect etc. If you add all this time up and then ask a company to do the same I bet it would not be a small charge, which I am sure you would then say thats a lot of money just to connect a few cables up.

There are rules about what can be repaired. Sounds like c-macds was right on the limit. Look at this site to work out if its too close to the edge to repair http://www.etyres.co.uk/etyres-press-me ... -gauge.htm

Not sure I agree with you on that one. Granted ported the Orions love a nice big box but when your feeding them power in a sealed box they love a nice small box. This is just over .7 cu.ft which means minus the displacement but adding the extra for the curve out I would be hovering around the .6/.5 mark which is fine for 1200w. If you start putting more it prefers even smaller down to .3 cu ft

 

Soundwise I love the H2 10.2 in a nice small box

 

Your right mate I thought it was a HCCA

Ah Yes - the HCCA - thats a totally different beast

Not sure I agree with you on that one. Granted ported the Orions love a nice big box but when your feeding them power in a sealed box they love a nice small box. This is just over .7 cu.ft which means minus the displacement but adding the extra for the curve out I would be hovering around the .6/.5 mark which is fine for 1200w. If you start putting more it prefers even smaller down to .3 cu ft

Soundwise I love the H2 10.2 in a nice small box

The magnet would fit under, it is a very square sub at the back, barely smaller at the back than the front. Technically the surround does JUST fit under the strut but to get it like that you would need a full fibreglass box as the top/bottom there is not enough room for even 18mm MDF thus why i had to bring it out a bit. Wanted to keep as much as the boot as possible as we often use it.

Well after buying a new (well second hand sub) just before christmas i have at long last managed to get it in the car. It might be a slightly damaged sub but its still already sounding 100 times better than what I had attempted to do in the standard location. Ideally at sometime a new/good condition Orion H2 will come up and I can swap that in (even tho this is virtually exactly the same)

I was hoping to do some really clever install, I had a few different ideas but as money is a bit tight I decided just to go with the under strut solution. All in the install cost me only £12 in bits I did not already have so quite good really.

Quite happy with how it looks. The H2 is such a chunky sub. Was supprised a 10" would not just fit under the strut. Sub is powered by an Orion 1200D

So Pics.....

Your probably best emailing parrot to check. As un1eash says the Parrot system will cut the line and amp the speaker it self, you don't want to be sending am amped signal down to the bose amp as it could cause all sorts of problems.

Its possible but its a lot of effort for not much more gain. The head unit is the weakest part of the package. You would be better off just upgrading your head unit. This wll improve the overall sound.

You could just use another sub but it will probably sound no better, to get any difference you will also need an amp which will mean converting the line input to the right levels for an amp. Not sure what level the BOSE system uses between the main amp and the sub amp

This really shows off how good the iPhone is now

Pretty sure this is a common fault. Is it still under warranty. I have a feeling a saw a fix for this on one of the forums

BTW there is also another BOSE amp required to complete the set. Its located inside the standard sub box.

The way Parrots work is they have there own internal amp that powers the speakers when making a call etc.. Theres no way of connecting this up to the bose speakers.

Ah yes - your right. If thats the case then there is no way this system is going to work as its designed for a non-amplified system. There may be a way to make it work but the normal leads are not going to work for you.

Did you not get another loom? There should be a loom which converts the 350z loom (3 white plugs) with the ISO loom that the bluetooth kit has.

OK - All looms will now come with the new adapter and the ISO cage is now a pure double din so its not a 2xDIN as well.

just noticed direct from incartec.co.uk they are supplying the 29-674 adapter in 2 types, hard wired and plug and play that includes the plug F. Also noticed they have double din fascia that does not need to have the middle cut out. Will let you know when I get my car and get the JVC DD installed

Cheers for the info. I'm trying to get more from them so I can update my post/guides

I would be very careful asking them to just keep mopping the car as they are eating away at the laquer. A mop will not make the paintwork look 100%. Bodyshops are not detailers and thus they only get the paintwork shiny but no more. Its easy to make it shiny with a compound to get rid of any crap in the surface but then shine it up.

Personally I would never use a bodyshop for 'mopping' I would always go to a detailer. £ for £ your car would look much better with the work a detailer will do. Even if they don't 'mop' it as much as a bodyshop does due to knowing what they do the end product would probably end up better. Give a detailer a decent ££ and the outcome will blow virtually all bodyshops out the water.

Was the quote split out or did you just get a "this will cost xx" if you got it broken down then IMO I would ask for a refund and just go else where.

Will it fit - yes but you will need facia and loom - For more details check viewtopic.php?t=16403

Its an OK unit - nothing great IMO. Personally I would go for something a bit more this - http://www.sextonsdirect.co.uk/alpine/p ... html?cat=0. Its actual display area is not far off the JVC so you its just not got as much waste space. The Alpine is a much higher quality head unit than the JVC is.

PS - Don't let Halford butcher the car to fit it find a place thats decent or even DIY would be better

Is that a you think they are or you know they are?

Nope....but can we ask why you want to see the underside? Am intrigued

I want to see all the fixings, where they are, what sort they are etc.

Google unfortunately did not help

Does anyone have a photo of what the underside of the 2nd generation of Nismo spoiler looks like i.e. the one with the removable blade on it?

Thanks

Rob

If only you had a black car.

What you go for surely depends on the service history? Has the car had a P3? If not its only 3 years over due so you should def have one done.