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Jack94
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Posts posted by Jack94
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2 minutes ago, Jack94 said:
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You don't really wipe the product off, it seems to break down as you rub it into the lense (similar to how scratch remover paste works on paintwork).
The product info says "Formulated with OEM acrylic resins to help prevent oxidation and cloudiness from reoccurring" so will be interesting to see how it lasts. I'd also assume a proper UV resistant coating would be more durable so we'll see!
But yeah my plan is to keep them topped up with wax each time I wash the car.
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Yeah I'm not sure I'd trust myself with some sandpaper on a drill unless the headlights were off the car.. Same reason I've never tried using a da polisher
I still masked the paintwork up just to be safe seeing as the compound must be at least midly abrasive, but it was super easy to avoid getting any on the bodywork.
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I gave this stuff a try yesterday-
I'm pretty impressed with the results, not sure how long the lights will stay nice and clear but considering it only took half an hour to do both (by hand) I won't mind having to to re-apply every now and again.
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Personally I'd go down the portable garage route if you can, never been a fan of outdoor covers because unless the car is immaculately clean any dirt will rub around with the wind and cause damage to the paint like you've mentioned.
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Yep you've got it, the knob is threaded on so worth just giving it a tighten first.
If it keeps coming loose in the future might be worth taking it off, putting a drop of loctite on the threads then putting it back on.
Just don't use too much or else it'll never budge again
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I feel your pain, I don't think Ive ever had a reasonable renewal quote. Insurance companies seem to rely on you not giving it much thought and chance charging whatever they feel like.
It's sad because if they actually offered competitive renewal prices people would be much more likely to show loyalty to one company
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Oooh tempting, who was this re-trimmed by?
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I use a Clarke low profile one and never had any issues, it's similar to this-
https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-ctj2250lp-2-25-tonne-low-profile-trolle/
That said I normally jack from the sill so not sure it'd reach all the way underneath the front bumper.
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If the car was absolutely fine before using the bikeseal/autoseal then by the process of elimination that's got to be the problem.
If I were you I'd strip the tyres off, clean that gunk out, re-balance them and see if that fixes your issue (which I'd imagine it will).
If you've got a puncture that needs repairing then get it plugged whilst the tyre is off, from my experience puncture repair sealants just cause hassle and ruin tyres.
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Yeah that's my thinking really.
It works out really cheap because the 1L bottle was £18 but you only use 40ml each time, so it should last another 24 applications.
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Not sure if it's been covered on here before but I gave this stuff a try for the first time yesterday.
I'm very impressed with the results considering how quick and easy it is to apply.
Washed the car as normal then sprayed the product on using a snow foam lance, waited a few minutes, rinsed off, then dried as usual using a bit of autoglym rapid detailer as an aid.
Will be interesting to see how long the beading lasts!
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It's very simple, just carefully pry up the gearstick surround trim and you'll see the cable going into the back of the climate controls.
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Just a guess but maybe the ribbon cable going to the controls is either damaged or has a loose connection?
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The front bumper changed with the facelift so yeah any lip will either fit one or the other, not both.
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Wow what a list, think you forgot to mention the kitchen sink
Early 350z's have the DE engine, the car was facelifted in 2006 (different front bumper, bi xenon headlights, LED tail lights & revised interior and the engine was tweaked to the rev-up which makes a little more power. In 2007 the engine was majorly revised to the HR and new (bulged) bonnet to accommodate it.
Personally I think it's worth paying the extra tax for the facelift but that's personal preference.
Definitely don't go to Nissan for servicing, any of the reputable independents on here will do a much better job for a fairer price.
Swapping the headunit to a double din is straight forward (and also a great idea because the original one is ancient and lacks aux, Bluetooth streaming etc).
Like others have said, in terms of handling its more of a GT car rather than outright sports car but can be tightened up a lot with various suspension upgrades (anti-roll bars, coilovers, polybushes etc).
They're a brilliant car all round (I'm probably biased) but are starting to suffer from rust in their old age, make sure you have a good look around all the arches and underneath if you go for a viewing.
They're not particularly tail happy if you're sensible with your right foot and have traction control to reign you back in if you misjudge it.
Happy hunting
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I'm sure this is a (fairly) common issue with HR's, from what I've read on other similar topics an Uprev remap seemed to fix the issue. Might be worth firing a PM to one of the tuners on here like @Jez @ H-Dev
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10 minutes ago, HEADPHONES said:
turning it before fitting which can bigger them up.
This is true because they don't spin infinitely, they have a ribbon cable inside for the airbag, horn etc. If you don't install it centrally (i.e. 360 degrees out) the cable will snap when you turn the wheel full lock.
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If the ones you saw are gone I think @Adrian@TORQEN sells them new?
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From that list I'd either go with Ark or invidia simply for quality.
Every exhaust sounds different so best to try and find some sound clips or better yet find someone local who has one to see which you prefer.
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+1 for the MXS 5.0.
The cigarette lighter isn't a permanent live so won't work without the key in the car.
What's your concern with connecting direct to the battery?
Double Cover or Folding Garage?
in Paint & Protection
Posted
It depends how well the car has been cared for by its past owners really. When I first buy a car I usually give it a really thorough wash and decontamination then single stage paint correction (if needed) and finally a sealant/wax to protect your hard work.
After that any future wash will be much easier and quicker because the car will be in a much better state before you start plus you can skip certain stages like headphones has mentioned.