mr v6

I'd put it on a diagnostic tablet & graph all 4 corners on a screen, the graph will show you which (if any) are dropping out. My Launch does this, very handy indeed.

I take it you've scanned it to verify you're on the right corner? Does look knackered that though.

Have you tried (whilst the alarm is going off) putting the key in the ignition & turning it on?

This is the patch lead I got: https://incartec.co.uk/product/PIONEER-patch-lead-for-29-series-SWC-29-007 The USB lead comes out of the back of the head unit, I've run it along the passenger underside of the centre console into the armrest cubby, there I have one of those OTG usb adapter things with a micro sd card in with all my music on. I do also have a wireless android auto adapter that can plug into the same place.

By thick I'm assuming he means the width. Common with Brembo alloy calipers that use stainless steel sliders on the inside that the pads move along. From experience, corrosion between the 2 metals form under the sliders which slightly lifts them off the surface, this results in it 'not seeming' like the pads will fit or, in your case, too wide (if that is the case). It's a tedious job splitting the calipers, removing the sliders to remove as much corrosion as possible & building them back up, I've had to do that in the past. At one point you were able to buy new sliders on ebay for the Brembo calipers. Your issue may be completely different.

You won't know what's behind there till you take the console out, which is actually pretty easy to do, Youtube will help you there. I removed my Bose & fitted a double din Pioneer SPH-250DAB with the Incartec wiring harness, steering wheel patch lead & a Scoche adapter. All plug & play.

Sounds like you need a full 4 wheel alignment / geometry check.

Mine was a pain, the slave cylinder went & was replaced FOC by the garage I bought the Z off. I supplied a HEL braided line to go on. They said it was a nightmare too, something to do with the square valve block thing behind the NSF wheel arch liner. I still wasn't happy so bled it again on the drive & it's been right as rain for the last 8 years.

Have you scanned it for any codes, pending in particular? I've had coils that were starting to go & were affecting drivability but hadn't put the EML on. I've had coils that have turned the EML on. I also found a throttle body clean & perform all the resets on here helped with my idle issue too.

Try 755B0CD000. That fits up there & attaches to the lower right bumper corner piece underneath.

I'm 99% sure this is exactly what I pulled off mine about 6 months ago, along with the small black lower bumper corner piece. I'd read online it's the evap canister shield, but I could be wrong there.

Could be a number of things, like a stuck closed thermostat, failed water pump, clogged radiator, seized cooling fan motors are very common on the Z. Do they spin when you turn the aircon on?

I've used these people in the past for refurbed Brembo calipers & pistons: https://brakeparts.co.uk/shop/Nissan/350z/03-/350z 3.5 V6 Petrol/Rear - Brake Calipers and Wheel Cylinders

Weeks after getting my 2005 Z 1i had an annoying ticking. My fuel dampener also ticked & was convinced it was that. I was ready to order one. I just pressed down on each of the ignition coils on the drivers side (not sure why, i was just messing about) & found the noise went. My issue was x1 spark plug not quite tight enough. My ticking also went up with the revs.

Odd, as my drivers side is auto up & down as per the 'A' on the switch, but the passenger side is not auto up or down. I'm sure that's how they are. I did read on here a few years ago that getting a drivers door switch with both switches being 'A' auto, meaning both windows are auto, but that left the switch permanently live once the ignition is turned off.