saint

Was looking around on eBay and found my best friends car.... cough http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Nissan-350Z-Z33-Veilside-V3-Wide-Body-Car-2006-Model-/172409770028?hash=item28246c502c I only hope no poor soul buys it, having seen it a month ago it looked in a really sorry state. Who knows, maybe it runs ok, but my impression when I saw it in the flesh was "unloved".

Interesting, since I did recently have a set of carlab lights installed by.... the infamous Rick of Meduza. He basically scissored through every wire and re-connected them again... I will test this one, and my other theory is that it only seems to go wrong when the "Icy" LCD is showing. For the sake of £25 I will get a MAF too.

Here's an update: Cleaning air filter didnt help Taking air filter off didnt help Car wouldnt run without a MAF, so couldnt test that Done 100 miles with fuel additive to clean injectors, didnt help Cleaned MAF sensor with contact cleaner, didnt help However, the car has randomly come back alive. It did the same on Saturday for no reason at all. When it runs fine, the cruise control works, but when the power isnt there the cruise control light blinks rapidly.

Parts below are still available due to timewasters. Spacers + Cats £40 spacers, £80 for the cats. NO OFFERS, NO RESERVING PARTS: YOU WANT THEM OR YOU DON'T. Edit: No offers means No offers. In my mind I've already sold these at full price once so I can do it again Edit 2: Postage is still £5 for each part, or collect from Crewe or Sheffield

When I ran the magical dooberry thingy I did a live scan of air flow reading vs rpm and it increases nicely with rpm. But that said I have no idea what the plot would look like on a healthy car.

That's on my to do list - going to try some K&N cleaner on my filter. Hope it doesnt dye it red, i hear it does.

Hi guys, My engines completely dying at 4000rpm, such that it wont rev any higher. The top speed is now around 80mph and it will only get there by short shifting, a Punto had me at the lights this morning... Ive got not warning light, and my OBD scanner shows no errors are present. I've checked the wheels are free to rotate in neutral, and the car isnt pulling so its not a brake dragging. It seems to rev freely in neutral, but then again the engines not having to turn anything. No weird noises, still pops and bangs as always. Ideas?

In case someone in 3 years is googling and cant find the right answer, like me, 560N will hold it up but not actively lift it. Future internet guy, you're welcome

cats + good y pipe provisionally sold awaiting collection speedo sold Everything else still available. More parts being added Monday night!

Interesting, my car rattles like the screws are all loose (not found any cause!) but I'm giving dynamat a go when I get round to it. Any particular tips? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Im after up to 2 JDM fairladyZ logos. If they differ between models then smaller is better as one is gonna be grille mounted.

Jon: can I call dibs on the next you get? PM me a price! Right now my cup holder is quite expensive as I have to buy her nice things.

yup, its otherwise all working. The speedo one just get stuck and you have to tap the unit for it to get working again. There's a thread on here about it somewhere. Anyway, I dont wanna get told off for off-topic

Ah fair enough. As far as I know the speed dial stepper motor has dodgy contacts, once you've had your fun feel free to look and let me know! Been bugging me since I got the car!!

One of mine was half missing, so that was my starting hole. But on the other, I just went at it until there was a hole and then grew it out until I could tear big chunks off. Patience recommended. The donut shouldn't be connected to anything based on my experience. It's held in under tolerance by the baffles and outside pipe. This is why mine rattles, since it became free to move without half the baffle being there.

Sure, it's been in my flat since the date on the picture... laziness eh! I'll hold it until Monday, and I'll give it a quick plug in to check it's still working (minus the sticking speed needle as mentioned)

Wowzers, makes me think I should have asked for more! PM's replied to, I better stop off at the shop for some parcel tape

@Colesl4w: it makes sense to me, but then again I've done exhaust noise development at work with Bentley. The baffles will be tuned to work with the cladding so that the frequency of the sound is within the right range for the cladding to absorb the noise. It's about managing the size and mixing of the vortex structures and preventing the strongest structures from propagating out of the exhaust tip. So without anything there, there's nothing impeding the acoustic waves coming from the exhaust and it will be louder, particularly at low frequency since the baffle will disrupt longer wavelengths.

Oops, the cats are £80 for both, or £45 each

I've got loads of oem parts to get rid of courtesy of all my mods! OEM DE cats, pair + bracket, 75k miles, passed MOT day before removal. Some small holes in heatshield but that's due to poor thermal management from Nissan 15mm super GT wheel spacers x2 (2 sold). £40 for both. Faulty DE speedo, 67k miles approx, speedo needle jams at low speed. Ideal for spares, repair or playing around! £30 OEM DE y pipe, not tested, sold as seen. £25 OEM DE Y pipe #2, passed MOT day before removal, no leaks or blowing. £50 Postage £5 for each part, or collect from Crewe or Sheffield Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My pride and joy, looking its best for once! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

A late bump as I still have the back box, and it's taking up space. £35 for anyone who can collect it from either Crewe or Sheffield. It will need the flange sorting out but I have one for it, included in the price.

Oops, I forgot to update y'all! Well, it now spits fire for fun. If anyone wants a loud miltek but doesnt mind a bit of drone then it's a great DIY mod. Some free advice: 1. There's LOADS of cladding on the inside of the baffle, be prepared to make a mess 2. The inside of the baffle is well and truly attached to the inner wall of the pipe at the point where the tips widen out. I grabbed pliers and just bent the mesh until I could tug at it. It's not neat if you shine a light down there and see the edge of the pipe is sharp and crumply but I refer you to "it spits fire" if anyone looks that close. 3. The disk that sits at the end of the baffle is a PAIN to get out, you'll need some force to bend it on itself before pulling it out. 4. Keeping the now-exposed inside of the pipe shiny is a lot of work, it fouls up really quick.

As Valy says then, I'll ask for maybe 50N more per strut than the uprated ones to be safe. Where can I get the springs? Thats a new one on me and it'd fix my dodgy boot popper too I guess!

Can anyone with a Veilside v3 wing share what struts they used? I daresay its a lot heavier than a Nismo V2, so I dont want to just blindly go for SGS' uprated ones. I reckon theirs can support 20kg of weight (for a pair) but if someone else went through the pain of trying then its worth knowing