Jp606

As others said, I use no oil between services. Some people get the clicky axle but it seems more apparent on the DE models, probably because they are older and there is more of them though. I love the gearbox, nice mechanical feel not many other manuals cars compare to it, but I guess it's a personal thing. Tube of Molyslip in the gearbox oil does wonders with the notchy 1st-2nd when cold. Not driven a DE to compare though.

Believe the Bose radio is the same as the earlier models which suffer with the skipping etc but it's a pretty rubbish HU anyway which I'd change to something better one day.

Which wheels? If they are Rays then the Muteki nuts are fine, as they are technically aftermarket. Raised the question with Chris before and he told me this

Medium to high I would've said.

I'm like you, not vaping to give up but to still get a nicotine fix as I'm a cigar smoker and it's not always convenient to go for a 1 hour smoke in the cold! 6mg is more than enough for me, it does depend on what equipment and settings you are vaping with though.

Could be drop links, they are known to fail. Remove the one on the offending side and (carefully) drive round the block to see if the noise has gone.

If it's the front then it's most likely the banana arm bushes or ball joint (compression arm). When these fail you get a knock that usually goes when you brake, however it's at the front rather than the rear. They are almost impossible to diagnose by using traditional methods of moving components with a bar etc.

Wouldn't rely on mileage, look for one with good service history and evidence of using premium fuel.

There was a chap on here the other week with 211k miles and still on the original clutch!!

Mishimoto or Stillen, it's essential to fit a thermostatic sandwich plate if the car is going to be driven normally as it will never get up to temp otherwise. Some sandwich plates have a hole to fit an oil temp sender too so you can fit a dedicated gauge to monitor it better.

Have you got an led in your existing boot light? Mine is so bright, don't need any additional lights.

Yeah I've only been vaping for a couple of months, but got the upgrade bug already.

Nice one, there's actually a lot of choice on there as I'm still undecided what to go for.

Santa bought me the Aspire Atlantis 0.5 Ohm 'sub-ohm' clearomizer for Christmas, just need to find a suitable battery for it, probably going for the Sigelei 100W but it's out of stock at the mo. Looking forward to sub-ohming

I could do a description of the driver but won't as you never know how some may take it, I don't want to be branded a "racist" lol

It's clearly a tacky gold Asian car, all that's missing is the tissue box on the parcel shelf.

Tonight summed up

Happy New Year zed heads

That's what I would do, sod waiting a week!!

P0340 is bank 2. Like you say might be worth doing both as they are cheaper for the DE. I had to get a new one for my HR which was £120 so only changed the broken one.

Yeah you're right, I meant decats either way but if I don't go FI, then I'll get a tweak for them Mark quoted around £400 for a charger tune.

 

Either way I'd probably wait until after my MOT in March before fitting decats as I don't know how 'friendly' they are yet...

Sounds like a good plan and fyi, ...De-Cats are not MOT friendly at all.

How friendly my MOT place is yet

None of my posts made sense because it's Christmas and I've drank too much

That's correct regarding the hoses.

Gearbox 2.9L (3 bottles of Nissan stuff) and 1.4L for diff fluid (2 bottles).

Yes.

Yeah you're right, I meant decats either way but if I don't go FI, then I'll get a tweak for them Mark quoted around £400 for a charger tune.

Either way I'd probably wait until after my MOT in March before fitting decats as I don't know how 'friendly' they are yet...

Think you'd need the B8 for shorter springs.

Those are sexy, if it's those?

The current 20s look weird and too big for the Z.

Only use genuine Nissan gearbox and diff oils and stick a tube of Molyslip in the gearbox. No need to go one step colder on the plugs either unless you've got FI.

Coolant I just drained the rad as you get most out, to get to the drain points on the block is a nightmare and the risk of annoying air locks is not worth the hassle, you do need to still be careful with refilling (go SLOW) and use the bleed valve at the back of the engine bay.

Brake fluid go with Motul RBF600 and depending on what you want out of the car, whilst you're doing the pads too, I'd change the lines to braided SS ones. Most people recommend Ferodo DS2500 pads.

Worth sticking a magnetic sump plug in for good measure on yor oil change for a few extra pounds.

All in all it's such a nice car to work on, I do all my bits myself.

for all your bits

That's the other option, the MeisterR ZETA-S coilovers for not a lot more money.

Yes ARBs completely transform the car, however the rear end can be a bit 'floaty'. It's tail happy at much lower speeds which is great, but feels a bit more dodgy on higher speed bends, which I think is lack of confidence more than anything tbh. Turn in massively improves and oversteer seems almost non-existent. Wondering if these dampers will improve further, as I'm also happy with the ride height of my Teins