RobPhoboS

Yup, seems ok from the computer but definitely slow on the phone.

The H-Dev Decats have gone. 

However the resonated ones are still available. 

And I'll get pics/prices up for the Y pipe tomorrow. 

12 hours ago, Rippon766 said:

how much for the Y pipe. got any pics?

 

I'll get some photos up ASAP, latest by Saturday 

14 hours ago, yus4ucar said:

Hi,

H-Dev decats are still available? 

Thanks

Hi there, someone else has messaged regarding these (a day before), however I'll keep you posted if they decide for the resonated or these h-dev non resonated ones 

To help out whom ever you end up choosing, spray the crap out of the bolts and tie rod ends in something like wd40 (much better stuff out there but you probably have a can at home) the night before.

It may make the difference between a quick and painless job, to something like Alex pointed out.

Unless you have full adjustable suspension, you aren't getting a full alignment anywhere.

Is your car stock ?

Hey guys,

I just wondered if anyone here has an UpRev cable that they aren't using at the moment, to either buy/rent/borrow ?

Many thanks !

Expecting this kind of thing !

Please post up a Dyno Godisme, I've watched a few of your vids on yt as I was also following your build thread on the US forum too 

I wanted to ask you a few things too

Check YouTube as you'll need to pedal dance it to get it to sod off. (I had to, odb scanner couldn't) 

On 28/07/2019 at 23:07, Yarlsberg said:

Hi did the wheels and tyres go?

Hi, they're still available. 

(Synx was looking for front + rear wheels) 

Note, my old Cobra y-pipe is also available now. It's not leaking but the flexi braiding is starting to go on the outside, so I'd get them replaced sooner than later.

On 19/07/2019 at 18:50, Umster said:

Any recommendations for pads? 

For what use & budget?
Road?

Track?

R&T ?

Can you take a photo/upload of your steering wheel when your wheels are pointed straight ?

I replaced my knackered one (on my 350z) with a Mishimoto one, it's huge compared to the OEM cooler but very handy if you use the car on track.

Note, it can be quite the messy job !

If you're doing the brace, and if it's seriously corroded the support brackets will be a total mess as well. And yes, these will get picked up on an MOT too.

I did my W brace and these 2 at the same time:

https://www.torqen.uk/nissan/350z/suspension-steering/braces/8806-350z-nissan-oem-rear-suspension-member-stay-bracket-right-55451-cd001.html?search_query=350z+brace&results=45

https://www.torqen.uk/nissan/350z/suspension-steering/braces/8863-350z-nissan-oem-rear-suspension-member-stay-bracket-left-55452-cd001.html?search_query=350z+brace&results=45

Although if you're selling up, it's an added cost for sure ! (worth poking your head underneath quickly to see the state of them)

I've updated the description for the wheels/tyres (offers welcome), and I've added the resonated pipes and brake discs.

On 10/07/2019 at 20:33, Swiftgit said:

Are the tyres and wheels still avalible

 

Hi, apologies for the slow reply, I didn't spot this. 

Yes they're still available. 

Hmm, think I may have worked it out now.

Ensure wheels are pointed straight (can centre the steering rack by figuring out lock to lock and half it first if needs be).

Centre steering wheel, secure it so it won't turn.

Pop u-joint/yoke thing on the upper steering rod first, slide it upwards and then get the lower section on the other splined part. I imagine the centre split on the lower u-joint lines up with that sticking out notch thing (above the right pipe).

Sling everything back together and hopefully the car steers straight now.

So this dipstick here put paint marks on the upper end of the u-joint rather than the lower end. Unbeknownst to me, I didn't know that the top half can only go in one way.

So my question is, how do you orient this back in the correct way (ie so the steering wheel isn't angled off centre)?

I can see a little protrusion on the steering rack, and on the lower splined bolt (that the joint slides over) it has a circular indentation.

For now I lined up the lower u-joint with the circular indentation on the splined bolt it goes over. However, that doesn't line up with the protrusion. So does this mean I need to slide the joint off and turn the splined bolt a little? 

Note, my steering wheel is being held with bungee cords, so as not to turn the wheel and potentially break the clock spring thingy. 

I know I previously had it wrong as the steering wheel was turned quite far right when I was driving straight (and yes it triggered the slip angle/TCS lights over 20mph) .

Cheers for any help!

&

Doh

Ignore, now I read how you typed it 

Always check the for sale stuff too... I have stuff here if you need it:

https://www.350z-uk.com/topic/124037-350z-bits-and-pieces-for-sale-tyresdecatscams/

Change company, sounds utterly ridiculous !

Who the heck are you with ?

Hey guys,

Am I right in thinking that the HR manifold gaskets fit the DE engine ?
I forgot to order a set of gaskets and I'll be embarking on the manifold install this weekend 

Many thanks guys, probably didn't help that I wrote it near 1am on a Sunday night !

Ah, cheers @SuperStu  (now I see what I forgot!)

Hey @Tomo, I don't have any of the trim bits, I would have thought @ZMANALEX would have something like that ?

Hey coldel, I understand on all counts but I can't work out what I did wrong, so in this case it seems odd.

And since 2012, I've sold a few bits and pieces here.

The images had the user name/date (albeit the date was from a few weeks ago), and only couple didn't have that but clearly the same item for sale taken at the same time (and could be removed if required).

I have to re-write it again, as I can't spot it in my list.

I just feel/thought that if I had left something out, surely it could be posted up with a mod note saying, please amend such and such within X time.

I've seen that several times I'm sure on some adverts.