RobPhoboS

Hopefully over the Christmas period I'm going to start gutting the rear of my car out, ready for a half/roll cage to be welded in next year at some point.
And I'm just wondering for those that have done any spot weld drilling, what bits you used ?
I see very mixed reviews on the little 8mm cutters with teeth, and would rather buy what works.

Cheers for any help !
 

Lovely exhaust.
Which single are you thinking about ?

Bit of a thread bump here.
I noticed a couple of weeks ago that my rear right was considerably lower than the left.
Had a chance to briefly inspect this with the wheel off over the weekend, the divorced spring locking collars were tight (both L & R). No leaking shocks, and everything else looks fine, albeit DIRTY 
The only thing I did notice was that the left spring, with the wheel off and the car up on stands, had a bit of a gap between the perch and the spring. I loosened the locking collar and lowered it down so it roughly matches the other side for now.
The only thing I wondered is if the upper central thing with the thread on it (jeez ), somehow turned over time, causing it to lower itself ?
Or just perhaps a bit of spring sag?

Either way, I'm still really happy with them, and will either adjust them both higher, or switch in the spare springs/perches I didn't use when they replaced my original GT1's.

Photo here for the bit I meant:

Great thread dave_7  (I've been too lazy to start my own one, I really should do it at some point)
I've not seen any 370z's out on track at all, granted I've only just managed 2 this year in my 350 (as I rebuilt my engine), so it's great to see a Nismo out there too.
Unfortunately I went past enjoying it on the road, primarily down to spherical bushings 

Not that this'll specifically help but I think this guy is also going through the same kind of thing..

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC39KB7-StA774VHp9s4i04A/videos

Back in 2017 I wired up an oil temperature sensor, and it was working without an issue (old thread here: https://www.350z-uk.com/topic/114588-wiring-in-an-oil-temperature-sensor-for-the-inept/ ).
The way it's wired up is tapped into the passenger side cigarette lighter wires (red/black), and the socket itself still works (ie phone charging), as well as the gauge working with ignition.

However since then I've just fully rebuilt the engine and moved the single-wire sensor from it's original place onto the mishimoto sandwich plate.
After moving it, of course it stopped working. 
So I bought a 2 wire sensor, that didn't seem to work (grounded it to the engine block), and then I bought another gauge kit just in case the gauge itself was on the fritz.
Swapped over the wiring to the new gauge (comes on with ignition), and thought I'd test the new single wire sensor (that came with the new kit) out first by dipping the end into hot water, and nothing happens.

Nor does it work with the old sensor that's still in the oil sandwich plate.

I've got a multimeter, and can test away, although I don't know what I'm doing so any pointers would be really helpful !

Tested the sensor with the multimeter, seems to be reading correctly, and changed accordingly when dipped in hot water.
So it must be something to do with the ground wire I guess.

EDIT:
Ended up buying a new gauge (Prosport Premium), everything works as it should do now. Well it did the other night 

Watching now as this is the tyre test I'm most interested in:
 

I've got one in the garage I'm not using. 
BUT you'd probably want to get the flexi's replaced at some point soon. Can PM you a couple of photo's of it if you want.

Good stuff !
Which company did your cage ? 
And how do you find it driving with I guess half interior ?

My Z is basically just for track stuff now, so I'm thinking I may as well gut the rear and sort a cage at some point this year.

Some photo's would help too 

Took a while to get my one but happy with what he did !
Nice guy to chat to as well, I tried to persuade him to do a bolt in roll cage too as I don't think there are many easy options.

On 08/12/2020 at 17:39, Forged350 said:

Yeah i believe so, it needs more octane and i reckon thats what is stopping it, I'll be going back with 105 RON to see how much further it can go.

Ah did h-dev build your engine? 

I remember Jez telling me someone else was having an N/A de build, as I saw a bunch of familiar boxes with nice bits inside 

Sorry for swaying off topic guys! 

Ah great, I must have misunderstood what Jez meant then. 

Saves me a little bit of cash if it's not required in that case 

Granted I'm some way off from even starting my car up yet (the engine is in pieces in my living room)... 

However i was advised to run an O2 wideband sensor like an AEM 30-4110, well my machinists was recommended something, and I vaguely remember Jez saying something about my OEM one isn't accurate when he was mapping it last time.

My car is an 04 DE, I'll double check with the vin/ecu number to see if it's wideband or narrow. 

Lastly, my PPE long tubes have two bungs per side, and when I was running the car before I was just using their extension cables that relocated the stock manifold sensors further upstream. 

I presume that my O2 sensors that are normally in the other bung are effectively turned OFF in the map?

(so I could cap the driver side, and chuck an AEM/etc into the passenger one) 

Although as you'll see they don't interfere with the exhaust gasses due to the design. So perhaps it's easier to just put a new bung on the y-pipe where it merges?

I've included a photo so you can see what I meant. 

Yes, at some point, I need to fire up another thread on my n/a build, had been waiting many months for my heads etc. 

Cheers for any help on this! 

5 hours ago, Forged350 said:

I wish more people knew about this guy, his work is second to none, i personally highly recommend as he loves the Z platform as we all do and he's bringing parts to us that are as good as they are made in the US if not better! AND without import costs. The intake helped me get my DE TO 345BHP much love for this new venture, i think my pockets will be empty soon.

I'd like to grab the swirl pot, and look forward to seeing what other bits they come up with too. 

However, just got to ask, have you got your dyno sheet/build thread ? 

Definitely interested in one of these, is there a 350z-uk.com discount available? 

James, the only important thing here is how much money are you thinking about spending? 

And are you doing the work or paying someone else? 

That's the most important part. 

And just in case... 

Because I'm just in the process of putting my engine back together with cams/pistons/lth/ported heads etc etc 

I did my build in a weird way check my posts or look at 350Butcher's build thread (granted HR but still similar). 

And the figures being put out there are hubs if I'm reading that right, a little different from WHP. And with NA I really think that's irrelevant to concentrate on numbers, each dyno and day can be quite different too. 

We've got a few recent NA builds here and on the main US forum, there's a plethora of them, just ignore the bhp claims. 

Glad everything is pretty much sorted with this !
Prior to dismantling my engine I had also done a similar thing with the intake (although my filter is by the crash bar). If the car is sitting I think you'll just have the slightly higher intake temp until it's moving.

I also wrapped my PPE headers and have some flexible heat-shield stuff that I'll put over them once my engine is built.

Actually hoping to finally pick up my heads today ! (9 months later!!!)

I don't like those pads personally, I've had fade on the road with them.

I prefer to have 2 sets of pads, 1 for the track and one for the road.

I'm using AD08R, Hawk DCT-70's (bit too brutal, will try 60's another time) for track and I put street pads on for the obvious.

Look at your rear pads if you're using ABS, I just pull the fuse for now but will do the same thing 350Butcher did with his ABS unit when I can.

See this thread:

https://www.350z-uk.com/topic/110772-fast-roadtrack-350z-hr-build/?do=findComment&comment=1818908 

On 29/12/2019 at 22:02, zelda said:

What happened for christmas '19?

Just in case, although I'm looking at a new rep option, if someone is selling please PM.

19 hours ago, itsLeon said:

Well when we first timed the cams and installed everything we did a check if everything was oke. We then found out that one head was wrong and started to discuss about the cams and the fact that these cams are missing the little knob for the sprockets. After contacting the manufacture about it they told us how to time these cams. 

so basically we found out by accident. 

For your cams i would suggest you send JWT an email if it needs special timing or if you can follow the Nissan manual for timing the cams. My bet would be that you can just follow the Nissan manual because i haven't heard this case about the JWT cams and the fact you can still use VVT if im correct.

Ahhh now that makes sense !
Oh I already fitted and used the cams last year (so all cool), just that now I'm in full rebuild mode. You could say my timing was out 

Nice one, looking forward to seeing how you develop it.
My one is going a bit slow at the moment but hoping to have the bottom end back very soon.

How did you end up discovering they required different timing ?
I know the duration of your ones are much higher than my C8's.

They can't force you to destroy your own property. 

Hey there.

Oh it's changed a lot since then, it's more track focused now so I went a different route.

They were good for the road.

I guess it depends on your budget. You might be able to get some coilovers that'll offer a but more choice in ride comfort. 

As I've no idea what price they would be now.