Sly@Kaizer Motor

Thanks for the kind words Will. :teeth:

cs200 you should've told me that you had this issue as I could sort this for you when I've had your car in my workshop and you would safe that 1 hand and 1 mechanic from injury

If you are close to my workshop pop in for a free check

Thanks Dave, I did try to include some good deal

Sent

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Bummer, had a good rummage through all the documents I have but cant see anything, only thing I noticed was in the car itself, inside the drivers door where the tyre pressures are, there is another small sticker there with the VIN number and a 4 digit code above it - I guess that wouldn't be it? No that's not that (there would be no point to have a pin code if they just stick it to the car as you wouldn't write your pin on your credit card would you?). It's not likely to have it as 99% of the dealers never recorded it or give it to the customer. (So they can charge you now ).

PM sent

It's usually not with the car (it's on a small sticker go missing easily when the car new) except if the selling dealer recorded it in your book pack.

Should be the same parts number, but the NATS code is 4 digit. (It's the key blade code on the metal plate.) Otherwise £35 is about the same as most dealership will charge.

Your parts number will be H0561-CD700

Between 09/2004-01/2007 are the same, but different from the ones between 07/2003-09/2004.

You can use second hand key, but unfortunately there are a lots of different key models and they all looks the same. Only the parts numbers are different, but it's not marked on the key fob itself. The best way if you (can) make sure it's from a "same year/same car" as yours. Otherwise some independent garage got the equipment to program them, but you will need your NATS code (pin number) which if you haven't got it only Nissan can give it to you (the lawful owner with the V5C) and they (most of them) will charge you for it. (If you are close to my garage give me a PM for more info )

Thanks for the kind words cs200 (just one small thing to put right, the oil wasn't over filled, but the oil cap was over-tighted caused it to be cracked and not sealing) I'm glad I had some good news to deliver and hope to see you next time in person .

PM me with your VIN so I can help you out with some tips

Had one few wheels ago, caused by broken syncro hub and bulk ring. End up with second hand gearbox from ZmanAlex.( Worked out cheaper for the customer than a rebuild).

The front undertray is secured by M6*20mm bolts around and two push in clips in the middle.

Are you sure your OBD reader will communicate with a Nissan specific system like ESP/ABS ? (Most readers only do engine)

+1 Mine too. Kaizer, how do you do the 'self-test' that you speak of? Is the interior temp sensor easy to change if it is (as Shaun says) "goosed"? Self diagnosis procedure is different on cars (year and type) so if you need the right one: PM me with your VIN number and I send you the instructions

Sounds like your interior temperature sensor inop. Need to do a self-test to find out if this is the case.

If you have an exhaust leak, than it's can confuse the O2 (A/F) sensor, so yes get that sorted first.

No problem. Yes check your system after the air flow sensor, search for split hoses or a gasket leak ( any unusual hissing noise).

If you have both in the same time, than it's more likely to be one of the last 3 of these (official causes for this fault code): Air fuel ratio (A/F) sensor 1 Air fuel ratio (A/F) sensor 1 heater Fuel pressure Fuel injector Intake air leaks So yes, probably air leak (or low fuel pressure, but check for air-leaks first).

+1 You can also find it on your Vehicle Identification Plate (small aluminium plate with your V.I.N. and model number)

PM sent.