ddcboyle

It was AutoGlym until I realised I was just wasting money on the most famous product, potentially not the best. I generally go for a Meguirs shampoo, ive never really noticed much of a difference in shampoos, just buy the mid range one.

Best bet is to find any mods on the car that would be relatively rare. i.e. if he has a certain exhaust setup, anything different about the car to others, and then just search. Most people would know someone by their username as opposed to their registration plate. Or, you could just ask if he has ever been on the forum. best bet, yes and you see details, if he says no,still have a quick look around and if you do find something. Possibly stay away.

Im sure someone will come on who has attempted the centre area. My main concern was the arm rest area, not sure if they changed any parts around that wouldnt fit in original slot? 31st Jan heading away, car is half green half silver at the moment, but taking the rest of the wrap off. Its 50:50 wether i keep the car, waiting out on police fitness tests etc. But just bought 2 supersport rear tyres and fixing banana arm, so along with the mods and fixes ive done, basically brand new minus the engine lol. Interior im looking at incase any come up cheap, wouldnt mind a nicer looking interior

I would have presumed they were the same? unless there was issues with the pre-lift connectors? Indeed long time no see, should meet up again before I head to Scotland

Was looking at the different interiors of the pre and post facelift 350z, and most interior parts look like they would pull out of one and just fit in the other? I've seen the door cards being swapped, to give the extra cup holders. But can otherparts be changed? Such as the 3 piece centre console? I like the facelift cubby area, and the arm rest area, but prefer the pre-facelift heating dial area. Are these all interchangeable?

There was an idea to have the doors, practically, welded shut. It was like a roll cage, but was metal struts connecting between each side of the chassis. So there was probably no chance for your girlfriend to get in the car without going through the roof. Doors would be useless and would just make you look silly, opening your door to climb over a big metal pole. But it meant there was no need for targa top and it would be a riggid hard top. Presumably the chassis on the convertible is different to the coupe?

Never been able to play the realistic racing games. I must just have terrible racing line instincts, which atleast keeps the zed off the track. Much prefer a bit of Need For Speed. The childs version of driving, Press X and drift every corner

I mean I've taken it out, wiped, put back in and then the whole things covered in oil again, and I have no idea what is excess and what is the actual oil (and this is leaving it for a few hours) I blame the designer of the wonky dipstick, no idea why they cant just make it straight like every other dipstick.... Service at Kaizer motor company next month hopefully.

I went off the idea when I started researching it a bit more. Was looking more like 2,500 to have the work done. Creating new clips and seals, there was a possibility with targa roof that it would fit in the boot. The actual strength of it, well the centre part wouldn't be your original roof, there would have to be stronger frame placed in and then another roof basically created. Its do-able with the right garage, but the cost put me off. Especially since its not a common thing to do, theres so much to go wrong. There was other ideas put forwards about havin struts across the doors (sorta like a roll cage), but involved too much work. I generally have no idea about this sorta stuff, I just ask questions so maybe it could work if you just took a saw to you roof

Ah thanks for clearing that up, got a bit worried when my psi differed from "the standard". Yeah ill be checking more regularly now, had no idea oil burnt off that fast. Sorta leads from one issue to another, now to try learn how to read that silly zed dipstick.......

Hi guys, I can't seem to find either threads, but around a month ago, my oil PSI was dipping to 0 randomly and fluid warning light came on. After a quick search, a fluid top up seemed the most appropriate (I didn't realise oil burns off?) After seeing my PSI go back to normal, I was happy. But then came across a few threads, One person said "Aslong as the oil psi doesn't read minimum or maximum number, your fine" And another said "at 60mph, in 6th year, the oil PSI should be 60" Anyone know roughly what it should be reading? My car at 60, 6th gear was around 35-40PSI. Just seems strange theres multiple views on this? Not sure if the oil type would have an effect on the PSI, i.e 5w/30 , 10w/40 etc I know, another PSI question, just want to clear up the 2 opinions on one page.

I understand what you mean about the window doing it faster than the AC, and you can get wind deflectors for the 350z from US, but their basically just stuck on, wouldn't want to drive at any speed with them. And their hideous

When i say "how i bought it", reflectors are reflectors, it aint sonething that will affect sale and need a pair anyway

50:50 chance ill be selling. And it wont sell being green and wrapped by some dude. If i get into scottish police, ill be keeping. Then looking at wrapping ferrari red. But at the moment, going back to how i bought it. Miss the green already

I had thought about doing this a while back until someone mentioned how weak it would be. Supposedly roadster chassis is different? Too much work, but does look way better. Car companies dont realise hard tops etc will sell better than that fabric MG look they done with convertible.

Going back to grey, so got rid of it and got gun metal bumper again. Nismo looks much better though

Looking for a front and rear "Z" badge for 350z. This is not the "nissan" logo, but the same burger shape with a large Z in the middle. I understand these are on ebay, but are at silly prices from what ive seen. Please pm me if you gave front or rear, or both. Thanks

Looking for a set of LED reflectors that will fit 54 plate front bumper. I belueve cs2000 was selling them but now all sold. Pm me with price Thanks

Definetely Elf. "OMG! SANTA!"

I will never be that man. My partner insults my cooking, and so does my family. But im happy enough eating food and keeping the dogs and kids entertained

I bought a v2 replica, with every replica a little bit of work is needed. Minor fibreglassing and sanding. The company has excellent communication, i misplaced my recipt for the bumper and wanted to have one for when i sold car, they sent an a4 recipt first class for free that day. I can only presume if anytging went wrong they would help resolve

Something a novice like me could do? Or will it still show that its been a d.i.y job? Not sure where to start, its only the small part of the fender that needs done, should i mask off a line to stop where the good part is, so i do as little as possible?

Theres mixed reviews about the fitment of the japspeed exhaust, never owned one or seen one so cant comment on that. However, get rid of the japspeed induction kit. Previous owner of my car had one in there, and it would stall whilst driving. Only started happening around 2month into ownership, changed for K&N and no problems since. Depending on your budget and what sound you want to go for, theres various ones out there. Induction kit will change the exhaust note aswell

Did you guys search for your paint match, or use the registration? Theres about 1,000 different kits. Im presuming to repair a rust area, id need the sandpaper, base,paint and lacquer coat and thats it? Ill give a ring tomorrow aswell, glad it matches up. Cant justify paying for panel respray for the size damaged

Edit: found colour code after just typing wv instead of wv2 But on the same topic, has anyone used this company before? I have a rust spot and just looking to repair it myself until i get a full panel respray. The kit i looked at was http://www.paints4u.com/ProductDetails.aspx?productID=8785