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johnnyboy

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Everything posted by johnnyboy

  1. And another thing ... do NOT throw away the old fans and cowl (like I did...). Not only in case you want to go back to OEM (like I did ....). Somebody on here will want them - any sort of front end damage will require a new cowl and the cost at least £50 from a breakers (and there are few about...). The fans will go to somebody who wants to refurbish a pair without taking their car off the road while they refurbish their own.
  2. Bit confused... I didn't really have any wiring spare..... Unless... Have you kept the two (unequal length) wires that plug into the loom, run around the OEM cowl and go into the back of the standard fans? - I took these off with the OEM fans / Cowl and plugged the Mishimoto wires straight into the two sockets on the loom. (Making sure I got them the right way round ...). Is this the difference? I positioned the Mishimoto wires straight across the back of the fans (rather than running them round the Mishimoto cowl) and put a couple of wire ties onto the plastic bars across the back of the fans (the wires are not exactly heavy and it didn't seem to block a lot of air...).
  3. I put some Mishimotos on this summer and could not put up with the noise (particularly an issue at slow speed and in traffic - which is pretty much the only time they come on...) - so I went back to "refurbished" OEM fans instead. Much quieter.
  4. All four of mine, including the two stamped "rear", have the 5 recesses you describe. (I have been trying to post photographs but it has defeated me... and they are not very good photographs anyway...) Looking at other posts, maybe it is the 8.5" rears that don't have the recesses?
  5. Exactly. all 4 wheels are the same size/specification as far as I can see (apart from the cast in "front" and " rear" on the back of the same spoke as the cast in Diameter, width and et). And although I have not had it from new, it was a one owner car with 12,000 miles on it when I got it, with every indication that it had not been fiddled with in any way and with what I am pretty sure were OEM fitted wheels with half worn original tyres. (I then bought a set of Rays and use the originals for winter tyres...).
  6. Haven't tried them and I would also like to know, so I have asked a question on them on Amazon. See what people / seller has to say .
  7. You obviously have a high regard for the intelligence and diligence of the 350z driver (ie. me) and my local tyrefitter. (and I wouldn't actually say its "clearly" marked... maybe you keep the inner side of your wheels cleaner than I do... I had to wire brush it to see which was which...j
  8. I knew somebody would know! (and I should have expected it to be you, Alex) So what harm would it do to get it wrong?
  9. Respect! While agreeing with the principal of your comment, I will absolutely guarantee that you would have been (slightly ) less stressed on the Alpins. (if you could have found some in the right size, which I doubt...) (brave man!)
  10. You express it very well.. Winter tyres (good ones) ultimately "move around" and let go progressively with plenty of warning rather than let go unpredictably or in a snap. It may not be ultimately as fast but actually makes them much nicer (and probably safer) to drive on. Nokians are truly famous for their "snow" tyres - they are at the extreme end of the Winter tyre spectrum (as befits coming from Finland...) and their snow tyres are definitely not famous for being good in the warm and dry. On the other hand they have just brought out a less extreme "All Season" tyre (Nokian "Weatherproof") that is getting excellent reviews for its cold weather / rain behaviour and is significantly cheaper than the Michelins and Continentals (Still not convinced about using them in summer on a Z though ...) and besides, I couldn't get them in Z sizes. I wouldn't go to a warm dry track day with snow tyres - but neither would I go to a wet and cold track day with summer tyres...
  11. Agree entirely that we were quite happy for decades without bothering about Winter tyres. We didn't used to have "Summer" tyres either, they were just tyres. Unfortunately, times (and in this case tyres ) change. Heavier more powerful cars going faster on busier roads. More directly of importance with snow, on much wider tyres with much bigger tread blocks, a lower percentage of sipes, better wearing (ie. harder compound) rubber for longer life and above all reduced rolling resistance so the car manufacturers can quote better MPG figures. And a need for the manufacturers to have the same cars across Europe (if not the world). We now routinely put on "Summer" tyres that are by definition ideally suited to Italian summer roads. In Winter. In England. Remember how many miles we used to get out of our old tyres? 15,000 was good, Michelin X's did maybe 18,000 and were considered amazing - but of course nobody bought them because they didn't give any grip in either the wet or the dry, let alone snow. WRX rally cars use 205 width snow tyres (or at least they did untill a few years ago - I don't follow it any more)... England is a bit of an exception to the car/tyre manufacturers. The rest of Europe is either: a) nice and warm and dry for most of the year (Southern France, Spain, Italy,..) so summer tyres are fine all year for them, or... Hot in the summer and downright cold and snowy in the winter (Germany, the Alps. Denmark, Poland, Swiitzerland...) so they absolutely need two sets. In England, Northern Ireland and Wales (and probably Scotland but I haven't been there in twenty years...) we could do with "all season" tyres (like the ones we used to have...) but manufacturers are not going to fit them as standard because of the fuel figures and a need for standardisation across all markets... and aftermarket tends to follow OEM. This year a couple of "all season" tyres have appeared (Michelin, Goodyear and Nokian are getting good reviews) but I have not yet managed to find any in our sizes - or I would have bought two yesterday, rather than another pair of Continental TS850's. For absolute grip on a warm dry road a nice wide Summer tyre is King. The rest of the year, not so much.
  12. I have tried to look this up in previous threads but cant find an explanation. My Winter tyres are on a set of standard touring alloys (2007 350z) which appear to be identical but are stamped "front" and "rear". They are all 18" diameter, 8" wide, 30et offset, JJ rim profile (I always wondered what JJ meant - as against just J - but my searching this morning explained it ...) I have always been careful to put the fronts on the front and the rears on the back, but every year it bugs me. So what is the difference?
  13. Probably a bit late for you, but in case it is helpful... I do a fair amount of milage on Winter tyres in Europe (and of course in UK..) and currently run winters on my 350z (standard 18" touring alloys with 225/45 fronts, 245/45 rears). I have used Dunlops, Michelin Alpin A4's and currently Continental Wintercontact TS850p's. I also have experience with other vehicles and tyres (BMW X3, MG TF, Ford Mondeo, Focus...). The Alpins were excellent, the Continentals even better. The way that putting Winter tyres on the Z improved its cold/wet grip and handling is amazing. It isn't just the snow - though driving a Z up a hill in 3" of fresh snow and going past stuck 4x4's (which were on summer tyres...) was thoroughly enjoyable - its the way it feels safer on cold wet mornings on the M42. I have also tried some cheaper makes. They seem to be pretty good in snow (certainly compared to Summer tyres ) but unfortunately seemed very iffy on anything else - poor on dry roads and particularly bad on wet roads - they are just not predictable on bends. The Alpins and Continentals are superb in the cold and wet and pretty good in the warm and dry even compared to my Continental summer tyres. They are just more predictable and nicer to drive than the cheapo's. As an aside, my wife leaves her Winter Alpins on all year round on the front of her Mini (which you are not supposed to do as above 8 or 10 degrees they are not supposed to be as good as a good Summer tyre) on the basis that as a careful driver she doesn't have much trouble in the dry in the middle of the the day in summer, but seems to do a lot of her driving on damp cold mornings in the midst of a load of half asleep idiots . Winter tyres have changed a lot in the last 2 or 3 years (for the better...) so be a bit careful to make sure you buy current models, not last years (unless of course they are discounted nicely - they have not improved that much...). Michelin have just brought out a "Summer optimised" Winter tyre (??) that sounds great but I have not tried it - and it is expensive. Magazines run tests every year - see http://www.autoexpre...prices-compared (I like the bit where they try to put their recommended summer tyre through the winter tests as a comparison, and it could not get to the start of the "snow handling circuit" ). In practice, buying some cheap ones and "putting them on when it snows" doesn't work, I have tried it and its just not practical. Buy some decent ones and leave them on from October to April (if not all year...) as they are just better tyres for our roads.
  14. Binley is best part of 40 miles away from me, around the far side of Coventry... So a bit far for me to "drop in on the way past" if you see what I mean. Maybe change your post to "anybody on the London side of Coventry" Good Luck anyway.
  15. Hi I am only a couple of miles away (Tardebigge...). I can pop in if you want me to. Where exactly? What exactly do you want me to do? I just looked up "Protuner Redditch" with Google, and the nearest thing I can find is on the Binley Industrial Estate, Coventry. According to an "unofficial" number lookup website I know the 01527 (ie Redditch) number is now on the Coventry exchange... I think they have moved and taken their number with them....
  16. Hi. You might have seen elsewhere on the forum that I am in the middle of this myself. http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/110377-cooling-fan-control-issue/ http://www.350z-uk.c...rlyoverheating/ I put some new Mishimotos on, didn't like the results (single speed instead of two speed, plus very noisy...) and have now bought some used OEM fans off Emperor Tuning (breaker on this website, and he has more...).which I will put on the car next week. Which tells you what I recommend you do.... If my newly acquired OEM's fail, I have obtained a couple of other failed OEM fans (for free) to have a go at refurbishing... (cos I don't want the car off the road while I mess about...) The good news for you is that If you decide to go the Mishimoto route, I can sell you an unused (fitted but not driven...) set of Mishimoto's for a discounted price... John
  17. I doubt if the radio itself is using more that 20-30 watts of power, so a kilowat would presumably last 40 or 50 hours... at least... but that would leave nothing to start the engine with... and I don't know how much you would need to start the engine... and if you have big speakers on loud that would probably use a lot more anyway... I give up. Its all too difficult. I look forward to hearing how you get on.... Good Luck... John
  18. Response from Mishimoto support: On 8 August 2016 at 17:44, Mishimoto Customer Service <support@mishimoto.com> wrote: Hey John, Thank you for illustrating your concerns; it is appreciated! Mishimoto's fans at the current time are universal parts that have a single speed function to them. In order to make them work in a "plug and play" setup such as the direct fitting fan shroud, our single speed fans need to be have a connector adapted to allow for the fans to plug into the factory harness. We do this by essentially grouping all of the "signal" wires into the power side of the fan, and then matching up the ground side. The Engine's fan controller system is designed to only run the fans when necessary, and while working in conjunction with the thermostat within the vehicle to prevent the vehicle from dropping to an unsafe temperature for operation. What is the difference in temperatures that you're seeing from your OE setup and the Mishimoto setup? Please keep in mind that the Mishimoto kit is a performance cooling option meant to help lower operating temperatures. As for the noise, we are sorry to hear about this. This could be in part due to the type of blade used on the fan. Your fan shroud kit features a fan setup with straight blades. In our testing of the universal fans, we have found the straight blades used to be an optimal blend of cooling while maintaining as slim of a profile as possible. unfortunately, this may cause a little more noise than stock, but it is a proven, efficient design. It sounds as if the fan and shroud kit is functioning as it should be. We completely understand if this is not ideal, and would be happy to work with you. If you are willing to keep the fan shroud setup that you currently have, we would be happy to send out a Mishimoto Care Package for your troubles. However, if the product displeases you to the point of not wanting to run it, I would have to recommend returning it to your original point of purchase. Please let me know if there is anything else I may assist you with. Thanks, Nick Weiss Mishimoto Automotive 302.762.4501 Please contact us at support@mishimoto.com! Ticket Details Ticket ID: MRD-684-14044 Department: Customer Service Type: Issue Status: In Progress Support Center: http://mishihd.com/index.php?
  19. That's good information... I think it shows that I have a (separate) problem with the IPDM/ECU.... remember mine now both come on full at normal operating temperature (with no AC), and again both on full when I turn on the AC (with a cold engine). Looking through every post I can find, some people refer to both fans being on all the time with Mishimoto's. with single running only being available with OEM fans - which sounds illogical now I come to think of it... Anybody got practical experience of fixing a "lack of single running" issue? What did you do? (in fact, what is going on?) (and Rich, I mean it about buying your old stuff if you want to get rid of it) John
  20. Can I have your old Cowl and fans then please?
  21. At high revs / high speed you don't notice it (as much...). It is in traffic (but with a cool engine, when you would expect a single fan on slow...) that you really notice it. It is louder than the engine. Mishimoto tell be it is because they are "straight bladed fans for efficiency an slim profile" To be honest, I'm sort of relieved to hear cooling fans kicking in when stuck in traffic. Good sign they're working! lol In practice they are on all the time... and remember they are on all the time you have the AC on... and I like to be able to hear the radio...
  22. At high revs / high speed you don't notice it (as much...). It is in traffic (but with a cool engine, when you would expect a single fan on slow...) that you really notice it. It is louder than the engine. Mishimoto tell be it is because they are "straight bladed fans for efficiency an slim profile"
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