Hayd350

Mine's floating around 15psi hot idle now so may as well commence the search and see if there's anyone in North Yorkshire that's tackled this before.

It's all fun and games until you're engine goes bang i guess.

Is this the evap surround in your picture?

I cant be 100% until I get back under the car

But this could be the item that I used to have, although the image below seems plastic looking. 

Hi mate,

Could be but difficult to say for sure. If it is im missing more material than I thought.

A quick Google would put it in correct location. I'll see what else I can find out on the EVAP surround and see if I can confirm.

Thanks for that, leave it with me. 

Evening all,

Just wondering if anyone can identify this part or offer a parts diagram for self identification from these difficult to understand images. Its an awkward location to photograph. 

The bracket in question runs down the rear right side of the back box and has a 90 degree bend which provides a fixing location for one of the plastic cover trays at the base of the rear wheel arch.

This bracket is pretty much dust, I'm not too sure what it used to look like.

There's so much corrosion i can't help but feel this surely has been replaced already by many.

Any help would be appreciated asI'd like to replace it.

I'll throw @ZMANALEX into this before anyone else does.

Cheers.

9 minutes ago, Hayd350 said:

The spring clips should have been under tension when you dissasembled the cubby and therefor should have been under tension when re assembling. They're tricky little buggers and tend to fly off in opposite directions. If this scenario isn't something you experienced then the chances are they're not in correctly.

 

It's a simple mechanism so it can't really be anything else. Unfortuantely it's a strip down job to correct.

 

In case you need a bit more info rather than a "Yeah it's wrong" response here's a step by step - https://my350z.com/forum/body-interior-exterior-and-lighting-diy/575663-diy-cubby-door-assembly-springs-pictures-included.html

The spring clips should have been under tension when you dissasembled the cubby and therefor should have been under tension when re assembling. They're tricky little buggers and tend to fly off in opposite directions. If this scenario isn't something you experienced then the chances are they're not in correctly.

It's a simple mechanism so it can't really be anything else. Unfortuantely it's a strip down job to correct.

Tidy. I've never been too fussed for the 370's, even the Nismo editions but the MK1 was the exeption to this. Never enough to make me list my 350 but a model that drawers a mild ammount of my attention. Specially in white. Nice purchase

It's a tough market to tackle that's for sure. VAG dominate, buyers get all kiddy at the next generation and somehow don't realise that they've done what apple do with the iphone. It's the same thing but a different colour.

Somehow It's a succesfull strategy, their following is so huge that no one else seems to get a look in. I think it was the i30 that was reviewed better from a fun / performance aspect against the Golf GTI. I know the GTI isn't what it once was way back in the MK1/2/3 days but still.

For me i'd want something that stands out in a car park. i don't want to have to wander upto the 30 other Golfs in the carpark before i eventually figure out which ones mine.

At least it's a manual.

it's better looking than the alternatives from the VW Audi group.

Miele all the way, built to last. Best vacuum i've ever had and i subscribe to vacuum monthly.

Battling with the 350's rear end on a greasy morning whilst banging through the gears is what makes me fall in love with driving again everytime i go out in it.

I really have no time for modern day motors with their Auto fart boxes and two fat pedals. I want to drive when i take my car our for a drive, not be driven.

I appreciate there appears to be a market for it but going down this route with a potential replacement z motor would spoil it for me. People like their Golfs with their different letters on the boot lid and indentical styling to their Nans diesel version. I don't get it but throwing a Nissan into that pot is not enough for buyers to make the move over. I think Nissan need to come up with a fresh old school angle, keep it raw and make it appeal to proper driving enthusiasts.

It does make me appreciate the 350 more though, getting from A to B is an experience and that to me is what a Z car should be a bout.

Uneven headlight hazing and a dicky DE front end, proper sceptiical example. Not even convinced the correct wheels are on the rear either.

Last few LG'S and now my New galaxy s10 have always struggled with connection. Infact the only one that ever did was my iphone.

It's nice though, in the last 10 years i've never had to call in for milk, get bread or anything.

On 23/08/2019 at 15:21, msitpro said:

a remap can indeed affect emissions, in both positive and negative ways depending on the tune.

 

Based on my test sheet yesterday, lambda value at exhaust must be between 0.97 and 1.03 in rpm range 2450-3050rpm to pass, CO% less than 0.2 and HC less than 200ppm.

 

So, if a remap has been set so that between 2450 and 3050 rpm it is running richer than OEM within that rev range then it's going to increase HC and CO and lower the measured lambda.

 

If in combination with that, you have a high flow cat with small diameter (less surface area for the catalytic materials to act on) then this compounds the problem.

 

I can't imagine with a good condition OEM cat internals (like mine when tested last year) that with just a remap you would ever fail. They have a huge margin over the legal limits.

 

From speaking with Jetex on the matter - especially when using high flow cats, the concentration of the palladium, rhodium and platinum substrate coatings is very important. A 'cheap' 200 cell cat may only have concentrations designed for a Euro 2 car (see ebay cheap sports cats <£90) . If you look at ebay for Euro 4 qualifying cats, it's £180 minimum. The reason being that they will have higher concentrations of the precious catalytic materials on the honeycomb.

 

Just off out to a job at work - can't remember exactly what your circumstances were?

Cheers for all that info, much appreciated.

Circumstance wise my HR just got through the MOT emissions this year, decent tester, went for a sprited blast and left it running to get the CAT'S as hot as possible and then it went through 2nd time, just.

Suggested it wouldn't next year basically. I run Berks and have for 8 years with no MOT issues ever. It was remapped 3 maybe 4 years back too.

Think my post was more about it being time to replace my CATS in time for next years MOT. Didn't want to just replace them and have it fail again. I think after your above post i'll replace them (over 100k on this set) and run it in the factory Map for the MOT retest when the time comes.

Can anyone confirm whether an ECU remap would increase emissions? My instant thoughts are that it would. Would it be more beneficial to switch to the factory map for MOT testing?

Or is it simply all about the CAT's?

I'm no expert, not by any stretch but i'd look into your wheel bearings maybe. The load of a 40mm spacer on the rear may have a part to play. Just a thought.

1 hour ago, msitpro said:

Cheers for the info - when was that Uprev map done? Was it after the last MOT but before the latest one?

The years of ownership have kinda blurred into a singular mass but i think i've had the 350 pass a couple of MOT's without a mention  of emissions since the remap.

On 07/08/2019 at 20:27, msitpro said:

Do you have the actual figures from the test you could share? Do you have a stock ECU or has it been tuned, Uprev etc?

Better late than never i guess. Apologies. Errr i'll have the figures on my 1st fail certificate yeah so i'll take a look.

I did wonder about the remap, was done at Abbey so i belive at the time it was the uprev remap. Would have been MOT'd with the "All out" map in place.

Wondering if running it through on the factory map would have made a difference to the figures.

I don't mind spending money on my motor specially when an MOT certificate's at stake but if new cats aren't going to solve my problem it's an expense i'm happy to avoid.

Leather interior in these is literally 2 leather seats. Plenty of people selling them so if it's all good but with cloth i'd be making the purchase. Even the heated seat connectors are in, just need plugging in.

As with all performance cars that have dropped into the realms of the 20 year old F&F boy racer go for the nicest condition with plenty of History. Some high mileage options out there but don't let that put you off. Maintence is key, check for service history. Poor mismatched  tyres normally suggests it's been maintained on a budget etc etc, the usual.

Clutch is a relatively costly purchase so if it hasn't been done, it'll need doing at around 100k give or take. If buying a later HR check oil pressure on idle, it's an issue that's cropping up a touch more often, £800 quid gasket fix if caught early enough, potentially catastrophic if not (122k on my clock and idles as it should) don't let it put you off, just be aware of it.

Later models have better interiors in my opinion but if you stare at either of them for long enough they'll scratch so personal preference really. Many more options for engine performance mods when it comes to the early DE's. Supurcharger kits / turbo charger kits are considerbly less than the later HR'S if that's your thing.

Visually there's no real cause for concern, rear arches can take a battering with rust so unless your local paint shop is owned by a page 3 model offering out free blozzers  i'd be tempted to move on from any rusty rears.

I'm yet to see a 350z with prestine wiper arms, they're all battered and easily painted back up.

Great cars, great fun, none of this fat peddle DSG nonsense you get today. A car that begs to be driven regardless of the year you buy.

I'd put it at about 100k on these beasts. 4 European tours racks up the mileage so I've put them through their paces. 

Can anyone hazard a guess at the average life span on a set of berk HFC's or any brand for that matter? Just got my HR through the MOT but the margin was unbelievably tight. Must have had them 8yrs, thinking they're surely due a change in time for next year's MOT. He  basically said we won't be so lucky next time and to think of a way to reduce emissions. 

No rear arch liners mate. Like you say there's a few plastics that close the gaps into the rear bumper section to stop shizzle from spraying up but no "liner" as such. From memory it's a two part section

on front L and R that fastens into the undertray. Tends to dismantle itself after a while so have a replacement undertray and arch liner fund for the inevitable.

@hayd350z

Some very tidy examples here. I've had my HR for 9 years now. Bought from Nissan with very low mileage, daily driven for most of my ownership, now retired to weekend car status and european tours with 120k on the clock. No desire what so ever to part with it, smooth and solid and this shape hasn't dated at all.