bigbramble

Might be good for N/A cars up to 400hp (fly?) Some lads on the US forum with FI setups had to get rid of the end system for restriction of airflow... it reminds me I need to get my system looked at actually...

(wasnt finished)

 

If I was to redo the exhaust I'd go for a similar system that MR Lizard on here uses if was to keep her NA seems to be a well build piece of kit... I do like the ART can type systems, read up on the theory behind it and pretty impressed about it...

Yeah for sure, once you go FI the bigger the better generally.

JWT pop charger

Motordyne Plenum spacer

silenced de-cats

Motordyne XYZ Y pipe with race cat

Uprev reflash

under £2000 (Abbey even do a package price for most of it) and it will give you an amazing but not over loud noise and a reasonable power gain. Probably close to 300bhp on a DE

I have heard lots of stories of Rota wheels breaking, seems you have to buy a rabbits foot at the same time as purchasing the wheels.

 

Show me some evidence so I can refute it... I do not know of a single case of a wheel failing without a very good reason, such as a significant crash.

 

Recently Driftworks has a bit of a coming together of both of their cars at speed...

 

They wished the wheels weren't so tough, they're fine, but the subframe is now bent and some bodywork needed

Thats good, they are just stories after all and I have no first hand knowledge of the matter. There are people in the third gen rx7 scene that really do hate them though, but I do not know the full circumstances of every story so it wouldn't put me off buying them to be honest.

love it! why does it lose power?

The aim is to get the exhaust gas out to atmosphere as quickly as possible, this maximises power. The gas leaving the engine only has a finite amount of energy to escape. If you make the tube too big the gas fills the larger space before it can move further down the tube to atmosphere, this takes up more of the energy and slows the exhaust gas so that it will take longer to exit - this loses you power. If the pipe is too small however you will get pressure in the pipe which tries to force the gas backwards so you have to find a compromise.

Huge pipes like the japspeed k1 might work on a FI car where the energy/amount of exhaust gas is so much greater but on a naturally aspirated car massive pipes fail again and again. I always thought it was funny to see 1.0 saxos and the with dirty great exhausts which would actually take a lot of the power away.

Interestingly the stock back section is very good according to Mark at Abbey motorsport, exceptional for up to 400bhp. I was curious how this was so as its normally a no to have a larger pipe such as my motordyne xyz going into a smaller diameter rear section. The reason he tells me is because by the time the gas reaches the rear section its lost so much energy it doesnt matter that the diameter is smaller. Made instant sense to me and as always illustrates why exhaust choice is so crucial on naturally aspirated cars.

I have heard lots of stories of Rota wheels breaking, seems you have to buy a rabbits foot at the same time as purchasing the wheels.

Super loud and loses power

If you wiped it straight off you will be fine, lots of experience tells me that

Sold!

Cheers, Anthony.

have you got your dyno graphs to post up?

I have them on the dyno thread;

viewtopic.php?f=25&t=24431&start=30

A couple more videos on the dyno, now with XYZ racing cat fitted.

Dyno pulls video:

Video of the Dyno room:

Model: 2005 Roadster VQ35DE

Mods include: Megan Decats, Motordyne XYZ with race cat, pop charger

Dyno: Abbey motorsport Dynapack

BHP: 261.7 hub bhp (approx 295 flywheel I suppose)

Torque: 246.4 lb/ft

Dyno pulls video:

Video of the Dyno room:

haha thats awesome!

They are fitted still, the Motordyne cat is fitted after the join in the Y pipe.

No sound as it was just an awful blowing wind noise. Next time I will attach the aux mic and put it under the windscreen for a better sound. Nice view though, driving into the sunset in the New Forest, best viewed in 1080p HD.

For sale a set of MW Tech hubcentric spacers less than a month old, the ones that are easy to fit and don't require stud removal. Size is 20mm front, 25mm rear. These are beautifully made and were only fitted to my car for a couple of weeks, there was not wheel wobble/vibration when fitted - these are a well produced bit of kit. The reason for sale is I did not like the way the spacers effected my steering/handling characteristics which is just a personal choice and nothing to do with spacer quality.

Pic here, comes with some free dirt leftover from my hubs and wheels ;

Price £100 + £10 postage will acccept paypal but 'gift' only as I wont pay their disgusting fee's.

If you would like to collect I am situated near Beaulieu not far from Southampton on the south coast.

Heya I made this little video for the sound of these mods as there werent many about with stock rear section and modded xyz/decats.

Spec is Motordyne XYZ with straight through pipes, Megan racing silenced decats, stock rear silencer.

The car is now fitted with the Motordyne XYZ racing cat so I will film that when I get a minute and post it up. It's MUCH quieter with the racing cat but a nicer less raspy sound imo.

(oh yeah and excuse my fat head!! )

spacers made your steering wheel sit squint..

He only had spacers on the back so it could have magnified any crabbing caused by a difference in toe from the front to the rear... ...I suppose.

I think they are dead optimistic at £8000 considering the massive damage...

A stock 98 MK2 MX-5, good fun little car I could park anywhere and not worry about it, now its track ready, on its ass, cut slicks, roll bar, supercharged, weighing in @ 995kg, running 204bhp with 192 torques I will be doing a build thread when I`m finished but still lots of work to be done

Awesome. People discount them as 'hairdressers cars' but they are total weapons. No other car will teach you about oversteer in such a friendly safe manner while still being able to achieve 40mpg I drove a supercharged mk2 on track a few years ago, loved it.

i wonder if its becasue you work in the area it makes you more tuned to feeling the differences than most? also perhaps the roadster feels the difference more? just thinking because on mine when i put spacers on the rays for a very short time it didnt feel hugely different.

It might make some difference, I certainly was very used to going out and attempting to find suspension/steering faults on road tests etc. I haven't really had to do that for 3 years though although I still do track days where I suppose you are very in tune with the car.

i think its fair to say most people dont track the car and for most zeds a play down a country road is the only "hard" work they will ever see. People shouldnt be scared of purchasing spacers at all. I can understand if you want every millisecond on a track but for normal driving who cares.

Im not disagreeing with any of what you are saying but people shouldnt be thinking their zed will drive like a corsa afterward as this is not the case.

 

 

on the note of my wide tyres, i'd be interested to have a direct comparison with another zed actually as mine corners rediculously well now with all the rubber on.

For me its got nothing to do with outright pace. If I wanted that I would have kept my RX7 as it was MUCH quicker than the Z. For me its about the thrill of driving, steering feel, purity and comfort all of these are in my opinion kept to an optimum by keeping stock 18" wheels without spacers and the standard offset. Now to be fair fitting the spacers did not turn the Zed into a turd, it was still a decent car but it really lost its edge and I bought the car for driving not posing. While I think for example the 350z look utterly stunning in a set of 20" GTR rims I 100% believe the driving experience will be totally compromised.

Congrats! My mother works with the bosses of NATS frequently.

Personally I think the Z is pretty good on the motorway, I always get over 30mpg.

Can't say I have noticed a huge difference but then I don't have a ragtop probably a lot more noticable in one of those than a coupe

The steering difference will be just as great on the coupe. Take them off and drive it and you will see.

I think its also worth remembering that the ragtop has an extra 75kg of reinforcement over the coupe, and EVO seemed to think there was just about nothing in it in terms of structural rigidity.

I have 20mm Eibach spacers fitted only to the rear of my zed at the moment due to problem with the a stripped to fit the fronts.

 

I have noticed the handling is terrible compared to standard.

 

The car tram lines

 

Steering will not sit straight unless I am on a completely flat surface

 

 

Once I get the fronts fitted, if the car is the same, they are coming straight back off.

Sounds familiar. I also think the car is not as stable under braking but I didn't want to push the point

i am just a tooth mechanic... and i think its prob not so much black and white.

wider stance should give better stability. i understand how the steering may feel a bit numb and slow since the main weight gets further from the centre of rotation and than can not be rectified unless you fiddle with the toe angles.

 

also as the main weight of the wheel is further from the hub the is more leverage on the coilover. thats why the ride becomes crushy. nothing a set of aftermarket coilovers with adjustable dumping and rebound cant sort out.

 

forces on the hub increased for the above reasons true.

 

spacers have dont weight anything really so the whole weight of the unsprung mass is about the same.

 

example. if you use a dumbell with a 5 kg weight only on one side of it, grab hold of it with the weight facing away from you and try and move it about on a carpet. you will feel all of the above on your wrist.

 

opinions if i forgot about something please.

Its very black and white, with the spacers off the car is massively improved. Aftermarket coilovers would almost certainly make the problem even worse as they are generally stiffer than stock suspension so the hub/bearing and body would take even more of a beating. Spacers certainly do weigh something but I don't think its just the unsprung weight but a combination of things that ruins the ride and steering.