RisingPower

I wasn't Then again, unless it's simple I think the budget is whatever you can afford/like the sound of

No I haven't. I'd say so Thing is, IIRC there's no reason that crossover can't be in the power amp, it's so long as it's before the power stage, not after. I think Honestly, it's not something you should be worrying about, just keep it cheaper and go passive Hertz mlk 165's aren't cheap. Then again, they're not that expensive either, especially from what i've seen if you go with an active configuration. I was considering the audison voce's as they're also apparently warm and very similar/the replacement for the mlks. Try them!!! http://www.raysmith.co.uk/audison-voce- ... ystem.html Also bear in mind, if you're not installing this yourself, it makes no sense to buy the parts. Get them to install and supply parts and you'll get discounts which makes it cheaper.

Think you're right on passive. But i'm not sure on active, my understanding was instead of having the amp passing both signals along one line to the passive crossover to the speakers, you'd have the amp having 2/3 lines, one for tweets, one for mid range, one for lower. The amp would then have a decent crossover built in which would give you the different lines out. Something like this I believe: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh ... ?t=1505293 This where the crossover lives in the power amp, though I guess it could be before too? http://sound.westhost.com/biamp-vs-passive.htm

When you say going active with the components, there's another way? Do you mean off the HU directly instead? Guess it would be cheaper, but wouldn't sound brilliant. Whaddya mean active crossover? Surely you mean a power amp with a decent crossover built in vs the passive crossovers? If so, I hope you've got a big budget But I still can't see the point of audio that good in a car unless it's for shows. I thought there was a point in going active for tweets and mids? I prefer the idea of running a separate amp for the subs and one for components just so you don't have to worry about power, also cheaper I think. 4) Yes Honestly, go to an installer, ask them to listen to some components. Don't go on other people's opinions. I loved the hertz mlk's, someone else may hate them for being too warm. I thought the focals were too harsh in the k2p range and too muddy in the access range.

I remember the oem backbox looked like it pre dated the titanic

Not me too? Honestly, for another £100, i'd get a better amp. Still, will be interesting to see what you go with

Cheers fella

So basically, while back, I scraped the stock cats. Considering putting them back on, but is this an issue?

JL10w3v3 should be able to handle that, but tbh, that's not really low If they could demo you something like lil' jon that should give you an idea of what you want Maybe a meet or something? Shame i'm the opposite side of the country Alternately i'm sure a decent ice installer would let you have a listen?

Yes!! http://www.metric-conversions.org/volum ... c-feet.htm

They're exactly as the cad drawing except iirc they couldn't get 5/8" mdf so it was substituted for something slightly thinner.

I'd go with the alpine mrp500. Because I did Nah, you need something with minimum 300w into 2ohms, or 4 ohms depending on which verison you get of the 10w3v3. Though one thing, on retrospect, I wouldn't have minded an amp which had a remote level control. Think a few jls and other amps have that.

errr... can you translate that please bud? Are you saying that AMP is pants? It won't be enough to power the jl10w3v3 or any reasonable sub

I think dblock meant infinite baffle/free air

Mmm But I think the type r's should be fine, think they're 0.60cuft. Mounting depth too, it's not a particularly deep box.

I think the alpine type r's are ok too, but not quite as good as the jl10w3. Have a look over here: http://www.talkaudio.co.uk/ipb/index.ph ... car-audio/

I think so long as it's got enough power for the sub you'll be fine. IIRC 500w was the max recommended for the jl10w3v3.

Exactly I don't remember how much I got my 10w3v3 for but cad have one here for £189: http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/jl-audio-10w3v3-2.html If you could do it in fiberglass you'd get more volume inside obviously, could maybe even fit something bigger in Just remembered, I also pointed this out to dave viewtopic.php?f=27&t=28131

The JL10w3v3 is in an mdf box which is somewhere posted up in a cad drawing here, I had help from family to get the box made, it's running off an alpine mrp500 in 2 ohms @500w which is also hidden back there as well as the other amp for the front components which sit in spacers in the doors. Head unit is a pioner avh3100dvd. I don't know why you'd want to keep the standard HU, it's a piece of junk I hated the way it looked, that it couldn't play mp3s, cd was useless, just garbage imho Double din suits the area, could even get one without buttons just a wider screen if you want even more subtle.

No build pics but some pics of cover on/off: Felt pads stop the cover from vibrating, put some grease around where the sub box touches the metal cover to stop it vibrating

Then you'll have it turned down pretty much all the way I loved the hertz mlk 165's, but I think they're too deep. I was considering some audison voce av k6's, never got a chance to audition them though, before I ended up with what I have now (hertz hsk 165's). Both of them are warm sounding (audison from what i've read) imho

Yeah, that and it costs £800 for that stealthbox I like the sub as it is in the bose compartment (I can live with the rattles when it's turned up), but maybe I could have another in the passenger glovebox One jl10w3v3 in there is plenty enough for me tbh. Unless you're listening to something like lil' jon and the ying yang twins normally, I don't think you want that much bass. Above the jl10, i'd only want a 13w7 and price for me it just wouldn't be worth it. This guys video is better than the one I've taken Here's mine: http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v236/ ... EO0001.mp4

There is a *lot* to rattle in there (also the metal inside seems to rattle other bits of trim) and you'll have to rip out the bose to fit another sub there, it's not just the actual sub but the amp too. Doesn't ikarus also have a sub where the spare goes? What about something like the jl stealthbox? http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_stea ... it_id=1416 I think it would definitely help with rattles/more punchy sound dynamatting/putting some MLV/CCF in where the existing bose is if you were to put another sub in there which actually does more than fall to bits The ebay enclosure you found, yeah I think it's a little bit too small in terms of volume for most subs like the JL10w3v3 and definitely too small for the 13tw5.

A jl 10w3v3 makes everything rattle like hell around there. I'd put it somewhere further back tbh where there's less trim to rattle. Though, wickedcas do make an expensive box for the sub in that location. http://www.wickedcas.com/product.php?pr ... t=8&page=1

I don't think that's bad at all really Shame about the really non flush wheels though and how he's put a ridiculously gutless engine in it though