Dblock

For me anyway it was close to £80 per day! Could be cheaper for you

if you run 10's all round imo run smaller tyres up front for that nice streched look

Agree with Stew the slk55 is the bomb. This one somehow looks like a vauxhall.

I think Ikarus has done something like that, he also runs jl stuff. Is that close to the west midlands as Im sure Husky could sort you out on the cheap but (not doubting Husky's skills) for a proper install a pro is the best person to go to but you will pay double even triple the quote you got for labour orginally.

No problem mate thats what this forum is for Well you dont have to rewire them but IMO you would be better to do it as sending 10x more power down the same wire which probably isnt great anyway wont be a great idea. But saying that you dont have to do this straight away. You will be better on getting mdf rings as the speakers sit and a funny angle and bolt in 3 places rather than 2 or 4. There is no sub box behind the seat. If not even sealed. So you would need to get a small box made so maybe a 8"sub would be better. unless you got a special sub to run IB. Just to use dynamat its goor practise to degrease the area where you plan on sticking it then you peel of the paper and stick it on. You can heat it if you want it to be softer to get into more complex places. You dont need to do that with the mdf ring but its advisable as you dont want your door rattling and stealing you bass although again you can run a baffle and if you want it to be better sound deaden it later although its eaiser to do at the same time. Where are you based as you would be better going to a trusted installer or using someone from the site.

I would imagine nissan and bc both put in understeer so that people arent like OMG i went round a roundabout at 70 and the back end came out. Is there a certain price range you are after? Im sure driftworks have some good coil overs and if not they might want to make some and you could maybe be the ginea pig.

Im pretty sure it was pretty good, If I was going to order a body kit I would probably get it from EPR

Thanks Dave IMO I wouldnt get rear speakers but this is up to you. IMO I would ditch the 6 channel amp for a 2 and a mono amp. If you want to keep the rears get a 4 channel amp and a mono for the sub. This would make it better IMO and have a better and more powerful amp for the sub and have more control and flexibilty for the comps. If you want some great wiring at decent prices check knukonceptz.co.uk JL stuff is good but IMO its the sound you are after, with all the better brands they sound different e.g. infinity perfects are super clear and bright, rainbows with silk domed tweeters are smooth and so on. Also dont order from CAC there has been alot of horror stories and so on. Best bet IMO would be to check out car audio direct. If your placing a decent order you can email them and they might give you 5% off. Also have a much better rep. As for the sound proofing you can using dynamat but you can get some foilbacked stuff from loudboy on talkaudio or get second skin or damplifier IMO they are better. Make sure you get foiled backed if its going in your doors. Talk audio is a great place to buy 2ndhand audio but if you want to buy new then CAD seems a better option. Also If I was you I would get MDF rings made for the front speakers. If you are going to sound deaden the door it would be pointless to not have a MDF baffle which mounts the speaker on a thick piece of wood rather than on metal where it will vibrate. If I was you I would get something like some dececnt speakers for the front (comps, woofer and tweeter) for about £150-£200. Make sure they are 6.5". Baffles will be about £20 Wiring will be about £60-£100 If you are only having front speaker get a decent amp, orion, jl, rainbow and so on front only get a 2 channel with about 2x 150RMS so 300wrms for both channels. If you are going 4 channel get about 90wrms per channel. As for the sub JL's are always a good choice. there are others which are great too. The most important thing with a sub is box size. If you are getting a box it will most likely be sealed as ported needs alot more space. Find out how much cuft volume it needs in the box and pick or get a box built for that size. A proper built box with a crap sub and a rubbish amp will sound better than a good amp connected to a good sub with a poorly built/wrong sized box. An amp for the sub should be matched roughly for the sub e.g. my sub 10" is 1000wrms and my amp is 1200rms. This gives me some headroom when setting the gain and also gives the amp more damping on the sub IMO. but if your sub is say 200wrms then a mono or 1 channel amp that is 200wrms or even 180wrms will be fine aslong as you are careful with the gains. That should help you a little

Roads in hot countries are so much better and smoother than ours. The rubber really sticks to it.

I have a p3 coming up so figured id get the bits to take with me Iridiums just last longer than platinums no other real difference. In your rx7 you might have gone a step colder or something to gain power.

Good price

No problem with it but it just makes the exhaust sound that bit more tuneful. Not a must be them three are the cheapest worthwhile mods. If you need any advice I'm sure Paul will explain to you. I get that if your not keeping it for along time you want to keep your mods budget as low as possible.

I thought you might. If your doing a lot of miles a remap from Paul at rstuning or Mark from abbey. It is 400 quid but the gains of more power and better fuel consumption then it might work out cheaper if you do. Personally exhaust, y pipe and a plenum spacer is the 3 main things you want IMO.

How long you plan on keeping it? Did you know Gary G?

£350 is the cheapest usually, bit email japspeed direct and ask them for a k2 and a y pipe and see if they can give you a discount. That's the setup I'm running and it's only loud if you flooring it. I have hi flo cats too.

Dblock but I'm not that freqent of a poster. You gave me some good advice on an mx5 If you don't rag it then you should average that quite easily. Are you planning on nodding it? As a remap can sometimes add a mpg or two depending. lol no one is cool with the kids here unlike CS . 25mpg is about right. I get about 29mpg but at drive at night at 50mph on the duel carrige way but round town and a little bit of 50mph mixed in 25mpg sounds right. Without starting another war IMO its worth it to fill up with 99ron as you will get noticebly better mpg. How you going to drive it as in id imagine its your daily but on motorway, round town or both? Who were you on CS? I'd use it as a daily. So 20 mile commute each day. Done fully on B roads. My M3 used to average 26mpg on that route so i hope the Z will do roughly the same.

I agree it may be eaiser to sell but the stamp isnt worth that much more. e.g. a fsh car might sell for say 10k and a non fsh for 9k lets say, You will have saved over 1k easily from not getting the stamps. A car that has been worked on is worth more to me personally as I know it will be done properly.

lol no one is cool with the kids here unlike CS . 25mpg is about right. I get about 29mpg but at drive at night at 50mph on the duel carrige way but round town and a little bit of 50mph mixed in 25mpg sounds right. Without starting another war IMO its worth it to fill up with 99ron as you will get noticebly better mpg. How you going to drive it as in id imagine its your daily but on motorway, round town or both?

5-30 im sure. Personaly any good 5-30 or 5-40 is fine.

thanks mate

From the cars you have come from Im not surprised, My 172 feels quicker until I look at the dash. There is no kick like a turbo or high end power like a 172 just a nice smooth curve. Its great for driving spirited without touching the limiter.

1k and 2k are types of paint 2 pack was a rapper No 2pac or tupac was a rapper Whats the difference betweeen 1k and 2k?

My bodys shops round here probably woundnt do that as they are rubbish lol. Also what' I know this is off topic but what's 1k, 2k and 2 pack?

Just the man I wanted to hear from. These smd LEDs are quite cool. The run at 12v I take it 5v would be if I wanted them dimmer? These are also 5mm flat tops which IMO look better than round tops although they will be hidden only the light will come out. Is there any particular LEDs that are better or brighter than others as I'm using it somewhere well lit anyway. Il be going for a strip around 5m. Thanks

That would be me! Although I've moved now! Lol thought so.