Jord

2005 '05' plate 350z 3.5 V6 Roadster FOR SALE. My girlfriend's 350z is up for sale very reluctantly! Exterior condition is 9/10 - front bumper has some stonechips, as to be expected and as is common on these because of the large flat front bumpers - they don't show up unless you look really close. Paintwork had Smartguard in May, thats guaranteed until May 2013. Roof is perfect, no rips of tears and roof electrics work A1. Wheels have some small marks, nothing major. Interior Condition is 9/10 - no marks/holes/wearing on the seats. Cloth interior. Interior has been Scotchguarded twice in a year. Car was serviced in May 2009 at the Honda dealer I worked for. Its done just 4000 miles since then. Oil checked last week, hasn't used a drop and its still clean. New tyres on the front 4k ago in May - Falken 452's. Rear tyres have 3-4mm across them. You will struggle to find one as well looked after and unmolested as this! [*:2wo7djlm]36K Genuine mileage [*:2wo7djlm]UK Spec [*:2wo7djlm]Full Service History [*:2wo7djlm]Warranty until May 2010 [*:2wo7djlm]HPi Clear Price drop was £13000, now £12500 ONO!!! No PX sorry. Car is available for viewing but if you want to drive you must bring proof of insurance and driving license. Please either PM, email to jordanbutters at talktalk.net or call 07736276728 [voicemail during the day but i will return your call].

Yeah, they are basically hubcentric bolt on spacers with one bolt pattern one side and another bolt pattern the other side. But if your using them remember to allow for them being at least 25mm thick so its going to take 25 off your offset.

Anyone else find this easier than COD4 on Veteran? I struggled with COD4 but kinda breezed through this one. Saying that, the single player is actually epic on this game, played through twice now and gonna go back and get all Intel next time.

Great bits of kit these, I use one on my SLR and its surprisingly strong!

Holy thread bump! But to answer the OP's question... Pretty much most modern-ish Toyota/Mazda/Nissan/Hondas are 5x114.3. Older/lower spec cars are 4x114.3. Subarus are all 5x100. However PCD adaptors are easily available now meaning you can pretty much fit any wheels to any car.

Anyone played 'tag' on Benchmark yet? Its awesome with 8 players!

I'm well versed on this issue on other forums so I won't go too far into it on here but I agree strongly. The sad thing is as soon as a new product is developed there are knock-offs available. This will, eventually lead to fewer and fewer new products being made because all the 'good' companies who put time and money into R&D will have been pushed out by those who copy. Without new products being R&D'd we will end up with the same old crap being rehashed over and over.

Wow, thread resurrection! You wouldn't be wanting to sell a car would you, Jord? Its only a month old And my post was helpful But yes

Running spacers is no different to running lower offset wheels in terms of bearing wear.

The diagram Bullet Magnet posted is useful, however negative offset does not always dictate the amount of dish/concavity [is that a word?] a wheel will have. You can have a low offset wheel with little or no dish simply by there being alot of material on the back of the wheels [where it bolts to the hub]. This is referred to as the 'disc type' on most 2/3 piece wheels. As a quick guide - 17/18/19" is the diameter. 8.5J 9.5J is the width of the wheel, as measured from INSIDE the bead seats. A 9.5J wheel will actually measure 10.5" across from face to face - this is where confusion/misselling often occurs when people measure wheels rather than reading the labels/stamps on them. The 'J' refers to the shape of the bead seat - some wheels will be 'J', others 'JJ'. The offset is presented in either a positive [+] or negative [-] number. That being, the number of mm the back face of the wheel [where it touches the hub] is from the CENTRELINE of the wheel. If the back face is exactly in the middle of the wheel it would be ET +0 [Zero offset is still presented as a positive number]. If the back face is 5mm back from the centre it would be ET -5, 5mm forward of the centre would be ET +5. When choosing offset you need to take into account wheel width and work out what will fit. Remember if you add 1" to a wheel width it doesn't all go on one side - the easy way to work it out of 0.5" each side [12.5mm]. You also need to think about how aggressive you want your fitment to be. Usually OEM fitments are VERY conservative so don't be afraid to stray too far from them - good fitment can make or break a car. Thats the basics, without going into tyre-stretching etc. But I won't go there because it got me in trouble before

Love this game So much better than the pile of shite that was Shift!

Its OK, I may have found a pair of 18x9.5+10 I can use on the front. 11J was never going to work up front from my measurements. The wheels are SSR Professor SP1.

Stock suspension unfortunately as its the missus' car and I'm not allowed to fit the HSDs I have access to to it Its the fronts that concerns me, I know the rears should work with those sizes. Whats the widest [width and offset wise] anyone is running on the front?

Does anyone know how these will fair on a standard-bodied Z? Same size front and rear?

First was a white WIDE coupe with black wheels - had a full widebody kit on it, debaged front end on the round alongside the M1 [A421 maybe?]. Second was by Ikea - grey coupe with Nismo kit, rear spoiler and LMGT4/Rotas.

The wheels are now sold, thanks for all your interest.

I gave you the same attitude you gave me by telling me my wheels were too expensive and 'dire'. If you would have kept that opinion to yourself we could have avoided all this and I wouldn't be doing this right now - I am off to bed, I bid you goodnight.

As I said above, I would expect the buyer to have to make his or her car fit these wheels, I doubt they'll bolt straight on. I'll gladly bolt them up to our 350Z though so you can see what is needed. I'd guess flared fenders and a fair amount of camber at least. Heck if someone was SERIOUS about buying them I'd let them try them on before driving away - can't say fairer than that. Sarnie - here you go judging MY character based on my posts. I've not been on here long because we've not had our Z long, but a few people on here know me from other communities and forums and should I ever need to provide a character reference for you, I'm sure I could. Finally, Ebay NEVER gives you the true market value of anything. Ebay is where people go to buy stuff from china on the cheap, make low-ball offers and generally mess you around. I'll save myself the hassle, although in retrospect I'd have probably recieved a warmer welcome on there than on here

I think the price is fair and reflects the condition. Remember the price and value of wheels isn't simply dictated by the diameter but also by the width and offset and also the disk type [referring to the amount of dish] and finish. A set of 18x9.5 ET+0 front and 18x12.5 ET+0 rear Work Rezax II with similar condition tyres but with alot of kerbing sold just yesterday on another forum for £1100, considering my wheels are wider at the front and in much better condition the price difference is justified I feel. If anyone is serious about buying them I'd gladly listen to offers, but I know what they are worth, both in terms of market price and in terms of their value to me

BulletMagnet - Freshly imported to me means.......freshly imported. It doesn't mean new, infact why would new wheels get s 8/9 out of 10 for condition? Doesn't make sense to me. I also added that you would need, and I quote "big ol' fenders" to make them fit. If your stupid enough to buy them expecting to throw them on without arch-work then you shouldn't be allowed near a jack or the relevant tools to remove wheels. Sarnie - uneven tyre-wear on the rears means someone has run them with strong camber to make them fit. If they had drifted on them the tyres would be non-existent. And since when did drifting destroy wheels? Thats laughable. They are sat here infront of me and they are not 'fooked beyond comprehension' , they are in pretty damn good condition, and Work make good strong wheels too, not cheap crap.

If your referring to me Jay then I don't see how defending the price I choose to put MY wheels up for sale for is 'being an arse'. Its all very well stating your opinion on something but when someone with 17000+ posts, most of which are clearly troll-like, jumps in and tries to belittle me, its going to put me on the back foot don't you think? And since I don't follow the ethos that you are your post-count why shouldn't I defend what I've written? And to save face Sardine or whatever his name is continues to question me about these wheels when he's made it perfectly clear he's not interested in them.

Yes..... I can tell your struggling with this so I'll humour you. You do know they use tyres in Japan too don't you?

I'm not sure, as I said in the For Sale thread they are freshly imported and only arrived with me last week.

I don't doubt you has [Thanks for sorting that out Stew]

Nice use of grammar there. Heres an idea, I crack on with my life and.......you continue to be a troll on internet forums. MKay?