GT4 Zed

Just putting this out as a feeler for a mate who wants to buy my M3 V8 and need this sold.

I know the car very well as I purchased it for him 1.5years ago from the same M3 Specislist I got my own car.

It's the venerable 3.2L straight six in carbon black and black Napa leather.

Good points:

- original car with only CSL type boot as mods

- full service history. Last service was not too long ago last year.

-Manual. No issues with GB.

-good paintwork with minimal stone chips as it was resprayed prior to initial purchase

- had new clutch and flywheel fitted this week.

- good interior with minimal wear to leather

- strong engine with no leak, rattles etc

- good MPS2 tyres all round

- lots of meat on pads and disc as done last year.

- everything works and got all keys, booklets, tools etc

- covered 90k miles as of yesterday = 7.5k miles/year

- not a lot of cars out there in this condition.

Bad points:

None really.

- one of the coolant hose was noted during clutch change to be damp by the clip so will be changed.

I'll get some pics in the weekend.

He wants fair £££ for quick sale. Look on autotrader to see what these are going for. Pm if interested.

Please don't ask what I'm chopping the My E92 for👀!

The adjustable traction arms you put up are not tie arms! Is a popular misconception from some of the aftermarket/budget crew out there. It fine tunes the rear suspension by duality in bump steer to improve traction. The OEM arm is non adjustable but once the car is lowered you change the geo characteristics and to get the best you need this especially if you swap to bigger Tyres which accentuates bumpsteer and tram-lining.

If you have a true rear coil over setup then you got 2 options to adjust toe. Via the eccentric OEM cam washer/bolts on the spring bucket arm and if you do not have enough adjustment you can get aftermarket Eibach or SPC toe bolts/washers or similar. The second option is to get an adjustable toe arm which replaces the spring bucket arm. This is my preferred option as it saves weight and gives you a precise way to adjust toes via the radius rod.

You can also get eccentric lockout bolt/washers to prevent slip on the OEM ones.

I still recommend you get the traction arm as you aim to lower the car. Start by putting them at OEM length and adjust the length via the radios rod in small increments equally. On both sides until you dial out bumpsteer.

Always liked these!

While I agree that cheap coilovers can ruin the handling characteristics of a car it would seem to me that is unclear what you want from your coilovers apart from the fact that you don't track it or unlikely to do so.

You seem to have a lot of suspension mods and if set up right with even budget coilovers it should be ok for fast road use and DD.

I've seen it many times that mods are just thrown in but not set up right and results in worse handling. Like Fake Ben pointed out as an example if you lower a car to the point that you adversely change the roll center wrt the center of gravity you will get worse body roll that OEM. Same applies for damping setting, Spring rates and geometry. Not to forget tyres or the negative effect of worn parts like bushes or bent arms etc.

Of the list you put up KW and Tein monoflex sold as Monosport now gets my vote but the rest will be ok for what you are after provided the car is setup right.

Get someone to go over the setup before you start anything or post op more details if you want help.

Hey cossack, I've been an admirer of the S bodies styling but not enough to own one. This car looks like a good one but I think you will be mad to swap your zed for it! The man maths you are preempting will not work. Just do extra time to raise the cash you need.

Yes +1000 with that. Other than this the rest of the exterior should look stock.

Trig, what do you estimate the final dry weight to be? Do you have a power to weight target? With your mad skills you can build your own sc/turbo setup easy if you needed more power to get this baby frisky!

Wow!

Hi,

I have information that would benefit you. I have been working on an 8 rib setup for the vortech sc and was going to get them made in the US but if you have the skill to machine them, then get in touch for all the technical details.

I also have a solution for the crankshaft pulley and various belt wrap configurations to optimise anti-slip.

Hi,

 

There has been many threads about belts slipping especially with Supercharging. Are there any manufacturers out there that make a wider pulley set? Vortech sell pulleys with 8 and 10 ribs for other vehicle applications, so if the Nissan pulleys were say 10 ribs wide then there would be over 60% more contact area. This would reduce tension required to drive without slipping, increasing life of bearings etc.

I'm looking into machining a full set in aluminium and maybe a 2.75" pulley from Vortech (they don't list a 2.86" in a 10 rib). I could machine the 2.87" also.

 

Dave

Unfortunately I did not weigh all the stuff I've taken out or swapped but I'm positive the kinetix is lighter. You loose the weight of both OEM upper and lower cast aluminium manifolds and fittings.

There should be at least 1-2kg in it from muscle memory.

hmm CF strut brace. There are too pricey for the weight saving IMHO.

Stripping the door of the motors, crash bar and redundant wiring will save more weight and be cheaper.

Bennett do you know what the Kenetix manifold has saved weight wise?? If I swapped the oem strut brace out for carbon I could save a kg or so there plus I need to cut down my wireloom in the car so that may save another 1kg.

 

Potentially up to 47kg to lose.

Christ Tim! Why do you do everything so perfect. You just put everything I do to shame as you mids are so meticulous!

You can save more weight on wheels that's why I when with the OEM Rays. My seats are 6kgs against your 7.5kg. I shaved bits here and there:

Full plenum swap for kinetix,

fluidampr crank pulley,

headers and ART pipes, lighter exhaust,

BBK slightly lighter than OEM setup,

aluminium SPL arms and bushes

By the time I do the glass swap for lexan, wire strip and full roll cage I'd be hopefully 1400-1450kg wet weight minus driver.

Long live track cars!

You are crazy Josh!!!

You've spent so much time and money just to give it away without really enjoying your car!

Seriously If needs must then the GTR gets my vote rather than the overpriced GT4 albeit a good drivers car and capable track toy.

Goodlluck with any decision you takeðŸ‘

Ice what ice👀.

I still have so much grip on R888s and now hoping for some snow so I could have really have cheap low friction responsible fun out there.😎😎

Nice one Jez! Can you share the build details/pics here for those of us here not on facebook😉

You need any switched power source. Anything that comes on when ignition switch to acc or full on. I took all mine from behind the center control. Just used your multimeter and patience.

Looking good andy😎ðŸ‘

Nice find right there! I would do a full OEM time capsule restoration as the value will only go up or strip it sell off the buts and turn it into a track car😎.

An MR2 with 350whp will be something to behold. Wow!! Pics👀?

Nice purchase Liam! A supercar for the discerning petrolheadr. I'll have one in black or the volcano orange or red please!

You must be in seventh heaven I should think!!!! Hope you can make it to a meet this year so we can get up close and personal or bag a px ride😎.

My zed is at 1380kg on a weigh station with under quarter tank of fuel. I still have the to get lexan for window and rear glass, get rid of window motors, remove the tar behind the firewall and gut the dash of anything that is not required. I'll brave stripping redundant electrics but this will all be upset with my full roll cage and sc. My AC has gone back in as I was cooking alive! Still decent saving though. Apart from my wet CF bonnet which I have for the vents dry CF parts are too expensive to justify.

I was on 12/10kg setup which was spot on but with R888 I feel a 14/12 may even be better. It's amazing how you enjoy the 10/8 which I find too soft.

Thanks for sharing your rake and setup Mark. I was consevative at 6mm.

Raising the rear subframe sorts out the squat and SPL provides 2 different shims to use with their subframe bush kit. I used the smaller and will try the larger as it just slides out.

I really need to corner weight to take advantage of my full adjustable setup as it will only get better.

Keep feeding back guys as there is so much win for all!

Good progress TimðŸ‘ðŸ‘ðŸ‘.

Getting the R888 was one of the best mods I'd done on the car and after doing about 3k miles on them including driving daily since mid December in the awful wet greasy roads I totally sold!!

There is hardly any wear on them still albeit I've one done 25laps at the Ring and half day at Bedford.

The wet grip is decent and predictable but I've been careful to avoid significant standing water.

Pressure wise I'm running 34-35psi for road use and on the track I found 29-30psi to be about right. I always have the rear 1-2psi less than front.

My advice will be to hear cycle them properly before heating the track and inflate them with nitrogen so you have more stable pressure on the track and keep an eye on the temp/pressures until they are stable as the tyre can go off suddenly if too hot. I found this out with Bob on at the Ring on my very first lap on the R888 on the zed.

I have a michelin pressure gauge and just got a mid level pyrometer to keep. Good investment!

Finally there are fantastic deals to be had from oponeo and tyreleader. I got my set 245/40/18 275/40/18 delivered for £700! Considering it used to cost me far more with a set of MPS 255/35/19 295/30/19. More grip for less buck = win win in my book.

Sorry dude not trying to give you a headache but if the cooler is solid then fine. Another solution maybe to put some kind of a long spacer between the bar and the oil cooler if it's not.

If one line is longer it doesn't matter. The key is not too have a stress riser or unnecessarily long lines.

I've not got a recent text from you dude👀.

Nice progress Tim! Brings back painful memories when I did my full strip. Had to use heat and paint thinner!!

Good plans for next year. I had a full quote sometime back for zed specific cut lexan replacement for windows, the boot and small rear quarter windows for under 500quid. I'll see if I can dig it up as I'll be doing this too and we may get a small discount buying together.

Pm when you are ready to pull the trigger.

My list is far smaller as I've checked off a bit over the years😎.

Do you feel you should have gone fully caged?

Stop messing around and get this car tuned Darryl🙀🙀😉ðŸ™!

I've just notice the way you installed that oil cooler and it looks really precarious. You should raise the cooler all the way to the crash bar and metal extension and secure it with nuts and washers underneath via the threaded bars you got there. Also shorten the oil lines so you just have the exact length from sandwichplate to cooler but without tension or stress.

Catch you later. I've just seen I missed a previous text from you🙀

Love the colour really Paul!!! You just keep knocking them out of the parkðŸ‘ðŸ‘ðŸ‘

Watched it on Friday and not as impressed as most make it. It's a 7/10 at best and you can see they are setting up for the sequels. I've been a SW fan from the beginning and like all the other great movie franchises they are tuning out of good original ideas and just chucking these very commercialized movies ready made for the festive period and capitalizing on our nostalgia while trying to win new fans.

I will watch the next one no doubt but the dream is over.

Nice. Hope you went with the DCT. These respond well to tuning and sound amazing with the akrapovic exhaust. I really like that color too and would look amazing on the zed.