GT4 Zed

https://www.facebook.com/groups/1515598665428450/

 

Lots of photos here guys thanks again

Nic I'm not on Facebook so post pics links directly here if you can.

Nope! Too busy talking and just looking at the cars. Thanks for a great me Nic and Matty at RSV. Will certainly be going there for some work.

Was good to me the forum guys and if I missed anyone it wasn't deliberate. When it gets warmer the meets will be more fun.

That^^^

That's Taddy's old carðŸ‘. Not seen him here for a while. Where is he selling the bonnet from? Or are you looking at an old ad?

I have headers with my sc and still do and only gains to be had.

That's a genuine Nismo header. If I did already have headers I would go for it. I'll be going for long tube headers as they have slightly more gains due to better scavenging.

Ultimately you have to measure cost vs gains and it's low unless if you have your engine out already or DIY.

Secondly used DC/stillen etc or even an HR/VHR header is the same gains and will be cheaper. I got a set for ForgedGt4 here. You need to use an HR cat/decat to get it to fit to your y pipe.

I would not be concerned about longevity from Nismo or the big brands.

It will be marginal gains if any just the same as lightweight pulleys. Just help the car rev more freely.

Just take out the pulley above the crank pulley and get a shorter belt.

Seen that thread. Thanks Sagara. The underfloor seal weighs loads too but ultimately every little helps.

I'll go with de-skinning panels first and if it's close to the CF weights I'll be happy if not the SC power will make up for it.

Thanks pips! I'm working this weekend/all next and at work at the moment so will only begin to workout the limits next weekend which thankfully I have off.

Targa florio cars are one of the most professional outfit I've dealt with and their selection of cars is impressive. I was looking at an ultima GTR they have for sale and Tom one of the lads there offered me to take it out for a spin but I declined as it was getting dark and that thing is so damn wide and low. I've driven them a few times and I almost got one.

I'll be at the breakfast meet tomoz and hopefully will figure how all the buttons work🙀

Finally I got my GTR. I've been looking since the end of 2014 for the right car and got frustrated. Ended getting the M3 V8 as a stop gap. It worked well as I had it for 1year and 4mibtgs and sold it at cost. I found this GTR in mid Jan and after extensive research on history pulled the trigger. I insisted it had to be perfect in every way but I collected it so after 3 tries I approved it yesterday and brought it home with me. All I can say is devastating!!!! Comfort, presence, noise, power, poise/ grip and more. Nothing like the extended test drive on a wet day where I had to be cautious.

It also highlights how good bumblebee(my 350z track car) is right now from a braking and handling point of view! And when I get her fully sorted with more power it will it this Godzilla for breakfast.

Anyway specs:

2009 GTR

Private plate

I'm third owner from new.

FSH from Nissan SVM/Litchfield/kaizer

Sub 40k miles

Litchfield stg 4.25 @ 650bhp

Ecutek Remap

Mines intake and other bits I have to confirm

Miltek header back decatted xhaust

Switchable maps including the ludicrous pop and bangs map.

Super lightweight forged TSW nurburgring wheel

Alcon rotors on pagid RS29 pads

Eibach ARB and springs

Fast road/track SVM geometry

Gearbox circlips upgrade.

Missed other stuff I'm sure but will update.

No frills just pure focus to driving performance

Only needs the updated Ecutek V5 software

Reflash.

Some pics on pic up. Will get more later

I will once the car is in the race shop. But you can template it on your even with the glass in. Just trace from the outside of the rubber strip and this will be similar to the aperture of the hatch.

I'll ask Alex or Ewen otherwise as it maybe quicker. I thought I'd get my car in next week but there are other unfinished cars that have to go out first.

I'm beginning to get impatient with these guys and may just take my business elsewhere if not that they are local and do good work.😖

That^^^ or get a tyre marker pen. I did this and it works but not as durable but cost 10quid for 5 pens. I've still got two left and can touch up.

Best doing this with the tyre off and laid flat so it doesn't run and fries perfect.

My vented OEM style CF Seibon bonnet is for sale cheap. There is a FS thread come where

It's have been painted black and not perfect were the CF lacquer has spider cracked or stone chipped (they all do eventually! This is my second CF bonnet) but will come out smooth if prepped /sanded/ filled and repainted. I'm looking for £350 firm or £300 with your OEM bonnet swapped.

I'm selling as I want a 2006+ bulge and vented bonnet like my first one. Pm if interested.

For you £33👀

CF doors that's super cool Tim. You don't do things in halvesðŸ‘

Yeah I meant cutting the bar after the full cage.

I gutted the door like you did but didn't have some metal strips to secure the window like you did but it's given me an idea. The double skin can be cut right back just preserving the area for the door lock and a bracket to attach the door latch. Then a flat piece of abs plastic or thin aluminum or CF to cover the whole door and with a small cut out to reach the latch.

I bet with lexan glass and that bar cut it will be as light or lighter than a wet CF door.

Thanks for the what's app👀

Selling my GP race wing mirrors. BNIB. Nothing wrong with them. Good quality, with convex wide angle mirrors and very sturdy brackets and stainless steel fittings.

You will have to make a custom base for it which is easy or modify your OEM base to work with it. You just need to shave of the flat piece where the OEM mirror is fixed to.

I've managed to locate a used cheap craftsquare motor in the US which is similar but comes with its own base so bolt on. They are rear as hens teeth and made to order from Japan at over £400!

This is £40 delivered from Motamec. I'll take £35 delivered.

OEM base with mirror. Need to shave flat section and drill to holes for racing mirror. Job doneðŸ‘

You are not alone Steve but someday I'll get mine together👀.

Silver lining in every cloud 😇 Wendy!

Either way hope you get sorted with your baby repaired correctly or good cash payout to get a similar replacementðŸ‘.

Are you cutting that door bar off? I'm doing mine as I suspect it weighs a bit. Still waiting for those pics

Got my Wing mirrors today.

Andy get one from states. Will be cheaper and quicker or get one cut from salvage car. So happy for you it almost back on the road.

I see things are moving along nicely Josh. You will love the 2 pipe mod. I'm surprised you think MPS2 did not inspire confidence. There's very little between it and the MPSS. I actually preferred the MPS2 and they have better longevity. Maybe because I used them for years. The other thing may have been that the rubber is old. Look at the DOT number on the side wall.

Did you play with tyre pressures?

I agree that the zed has more mechanical grip when sorted but that M diff is awesome but takes getting used to. It also you to do stupid things if you trust it and get past the unnatural operation compared to a mechanical LSD. However don't trust it on wet/drying roads.

The brakes a big enough but the single large piston lets it down and certainly OEM pads fade easily when you are on stack mode even on a-b roads. Better pads change improves it by miles.

Change the air filter for BMC and enjoy the induction noise. You will come to love this car and trust it😎.

I've got parts to help make a hardcore zed if anyone interested

I hope you are not parting this car out mate! It would be such a shame!

You mean GTFO

That^^^

Also why do you want to use so much spacing? To achieve a flush look you on the zed need an ET of +10-15.

So if you have a wheel with ET +20 and use 30mm spacer the real ET is -10! The wheel/tyre will be poking past the fender! I know the stance/flush guys do this for look I addition to stretching but it's illegal(poke) and has no performance.

Similarly a wheel with ET +20 with 20mm spacer gives a total ET0.

You will need a 5-10mm spacer up front and 5-10mm. If you want slight stagger the 10mm front 5mm rear.

Can't go wrong with KWs.

You are just mad Ian!! I think it's time you went for the R34.

An R34 GTR in bayside blue, red Connolly leather bucket seats, z tune body kit and bronze Volks wheels and full HKS catalogue to 500-600bhp is my endearing dream.🦄

Happy birthday dude!