GT4 Zed

The liquid yellow, Porsche riviera/Volvo polestar blue or chrome orange will all make the car standout and work with black roof and accents.

Blue will be my choice and probably satin.

It's pointless to go with any of the OEM colour if having a full respray.

Got a used OEM MC that was in full working order before I swapped to z speed tilton Racing MC. Pm an offer if you want.

Bump!

Pm'ed

Sorry to here your problems. Was it a private sale?

I've got a used Z speed alloy under tray going up for sale if you are interested. I will get pics soon. It has a few superficial dings as expected being under the car and some scrape damage on the front leading edge where it dropped on the road when I was stupidly doing some testing without the front bumper!! (Don't ask). However it's all been repainted and straightened to fits appropriately. All the original fitting hardware is complete. Will be looking for £100 delivered saving £80 from new.

It will be difficult to find arch liners used in good condition but you can get them new from CMS or Nissan for £49 each.

Dude you are still worrying with this😳! Every moving part will wear over time but unless something catastrophic happened the wear is even and minimal so never an issue. I never had any whine until I put urethane bushes all round. The solid bushes just amplified every noise that's there. Even the diff on my M3 whines and groans and it's a known complaint. BMW advices adding a friction modifier to the diff oil to get rid off get it. Changing the crown/pinion is just too extreme unless you can prove significant wear. Like I said before if everything works you are just worrying for nowt.

That's water temp. Oil temp is more important and you will have to add an aftermarket gauge and sensor to monitor this since the zed only has oil pressure gauge.

Don't know if you can access this via the obd which may even be less hassle if you got an obd wifi sender and the app. (Many to choose from)

Anyway I'm sure you are worried for nothing. My water temps are similar even on track.

Prices reduced and taking reasonable offersðŸ‘

+1000 on this but if you want to swap the driver side valve it is as easy as you described. Try Zmanalex or CMS for better pricing than Nissan.

I have a spare new one if you want it ASAP.

@ebsop and exiled slinky: have none of those for sale. Car was stripped to track spec not breaking for parts

Went with the ProFlex. Definitely the best overall package. Similar price to bothy the KW and the Quantum, but the ProFlex was a turn key package extensively developed for the European 350z series. Other benefits include phone support and set up session at Oulton Park🚗 oh and they're just down the road from me should I need to pay them a visit.

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NiceðŸ‘

Can you post up pics, specs features of the kit and your feedback of these? Never heard of them but I know there are loads of specialist UK shops doing things like this😎

Pm preferable as I don't check this thread daily but do check pms😎

@wrayvon: Not got battery cover, seat or wheel arch liner for sale.

@ mickeyazure. Got a full cubby and both window switches trims for sale. Prefer to sell them together for those with paint, wrap or hydrodipping projects. There's a first dibs on the trims. Pm your offer. Car is 2005 GT4

@georgeW: got complete ashtray/bin. Pm offer.

Salut Philipe!

WOW!!!! ðŸ‘ðŸ‘ðŸ‘ðŸ‘ðŸ‘

Not a bad price for piece of mind. Have to admit, the gearbox in the Z is the worst part of the car. Mines fine through all the gears, but try and jump from 6th to 4th, or 5th to 3rd and it's like hitting a brick wall. never experienced a box like it.

Do you mean it's crunching or refusing to get it? Mine is so smooth in every which way nowðŸ‘

Sorry not checked back this thread.

@cs2000: The refurb meaner a complete replacement of any thing that is not fit for purpose so the GB ooerates like new. Pm if you are seriously considering this.

@ boulderman: as stated pm if seriously interested. I can't give you details as it's by appointment only. If he chooses to do a few more refurbs you can have all his credentials before the job. There will first be an inspection before w firm quote. You can always pull out. All work comes with 12 months warranty full parts and labour.

Nice work Alex. Living the dream😎

It works and that's how I bled my last clutch change with Z speed Tilton racing MC upgrade. Works great and bleeding take a few minutes! It's also easy for having the z speed MC upgrade with a custom single line between MC and SC.

I blocked the SC while insitu by pushing in the piston all the way in and jamming a multiple fat metal washers between it and the clutch fork lever. Any object will work just need to improvise.

From here just bleed as normal all the system just bleeds from the MC via the clutch line since the SC is completely emptied of air. Once all the air is out of the system and with pedal down just close the SC bleed nipple and remove washers etc so the SC piston extend to contact with the clutch fork lever. Your pedal will be firm and the operation should be crisp.

I will post up my full upgrade and feedback at some point.

This method is not "new" and does not work for each car. The OEM way of doing it works but is tedious to get the air out but if you have a power bleed it will be as quick.

First of complete bushes swap are not common place as it's very labour intensive and there are only a handful of cars that have had this done. I probably did the first full urethane swaps and then I've done 2 members cars here full swaps. I probably also have done the 1st full solid bushes swap here and track my car so got lots of experience within bushes and suspension tuning.

If you read my comments and also that of Mark @ Abbey on that failure thread it's clear that failure is unusual. So to think Superpro is not a good bush from that failure is premature. I also listed why a bush could fail apart from the bush being duff as a cause.

While I accept that there is not much info on search and that a lot here have just done single bush swaps you can either take the opinion of people who have done it or try something new by all means.

BTW I get no squeaking even from my solid bushes. I've also not got a bush fail yet.

While it's a great thing to break the mould sometimes is there any reason no to use the well trodden path of Superpro, energy suspension or whiteline and I think Rob recently gave some feedback on nolathane.

Frankly urethane in itself is a cheap plastic polymer to make. What seperates the crap from the food is bush design. A lot of the cheap bushes out there just copy the good ones but doesn't take into consideration the specific requirements of the bush and the fact that a simple looking bush is actually 2 or more different durometer(hardness) urethane to impart specific properties to the bush to perform its function, prevent suspension binding and provide longevity.

So from a price point they are about the the price of energy suspension but looking at some of their specific bushes I'm not sure it's better than what it already well known. I hope I'm wrong.

So by all means try it and give us feedback.

It would make sense to go through all the connections are in and correct and also check the head unit settings. If all this fails you need expert advice from someone like Bob(zed shed crew)

I've got all the OEM speakers for sale cheap if you need replacing.

Really good work!!! I imagine all alcantara will be awesome😎

Just copy the img code to post whole pics on the forum. You can the from clicking the link/share button.

Black gets my vote alwaysðŸ‘

A new one is £33👀 why don't you get yours rather than hoping the first dibs fall through 😇

Sounds rough! Could be valvetrain related, bottom end bearing related or even just the belt/pulley related. Your belt looks new has the been changed recently? I had a ticking noise that turned out to be the painted section of the Continental belt going over the idler pulleys. A few squirts of WD40 on the back of the belt and it disappears until the oil burns off. The continental belt is noisier than the Gates anyway as the non ribbed backside is hatched/groved and transfer noises from the rotating assembly.

The key questions are

- does this happen only on idle?

- is the car running ok otherwise?

- have you had an eye on your oil level all the time?

Ultimately you will need to take it for a live inspection with your nearest zed specialist as it just guess what the issue is.