JV-Z

It's obviously precise Cusco OS design. Although great product and only strunt that fits in DE with 5/8" spacer.

Varis is still for sale in Japan. a bit pricy nowdays (>1000 €) but imo still best choice

Big thanks for abbey. Tranction oil came here today and all went well. So no need anymore.

HKS supercharger Traction fluid HKS part number G08834-K00020-00 needed. If you have this or you know what is good place to buy it, let me know.

2011 Year 2011 I start ordering again some new parts First vas high flow cats. And of course it had to be Berks. These came from States. Chassis need a little update with the bilstein. So at the same time I got Hotchkiss sway bars And new bushes I also changed new updated drop links both front and rear. on the right is standard, left updated. Because I didn't want to use old nuts, bolts, washers etc, I bought every piece new. Some of these belong to the upper mount. Bilstein assembled Then I started to change the parts This was first time in my new garage. Light was terrible because of the garage incomplete, so i had to do this door open. Bilstein is waiting impatient to get under the car Old and new rear stabilizer side by side. Front ready Rear ready Next i ordered new door sill plates. The original silver ones. And fixed drivers seat squeaking. One washer to the right place and seat was tight So in June car was again ready for the track. Chassis was now better than ever. Two weeks after the track car suffered starting problems, until it stops entirely. I had to order the tow truck and move it to the authorized workshop. IPDM was dead and also the ECU. IPDM wasn't repairable. Main board was broken not only relay. ECU same thing. I didn't have to get new ECU, i found used from Germany. Don't know what electric shock it had got. After that car was fine, but I lost 2 months that summer and now car is again in winter storage. In March P5IULT had the shine group buy. I ordered Shine Strosek CF side skirts to complement the CF line. Condition was perfect. Fitment I don't know yet, cos those part stand here in my working room. Front CF is still missing after selling the seibon, which might be mistake. Varis is first option, Second option is genuine Nismo V3 bumper. If you know someone is selling these, let me know. December i had obviously again too much time and this lead me to get this. So this summer plan is quite clear. I will return for that.

2010 2010 didn't start well. Rabbit or something else small animal run in my front bumper. Insurance company of course paid the whole thing and i got new bumper and new paint in it. Seibon front lip also dameged a bit, so I didn't repair it instead i sold it. I actually wanted anyway replace it with the Varis Arising-I, but in then I didn't know how hard is to get one. With the engine I wonder what direction should I take. NA or charged. At this point i chose NA. Nurrish was selling his Utec here in good price so I bought it. Thanks Nurrish. When I installed the Utec I of course managed to break som interior parts. 100 € of couple piece of plastic. In the summer, before the trackdays, i had to get the better belts. One option was to replace the seats, but i liked the original seat. Previous car I had Sparco seats and I have to admit, in normal driving those weren't practical. So standard seats and good belts and so you can keep your ass on the seat on the track I chose Schroth 6P with the pilot lock 350z don't have back seats so, harness bar was only way to go. Sparco is expensive but when concern is safety it's wrong place to save. Seats had to remove during the installation. Nicely I replaced the original bolt with the eyebolt. Both belt are now in use at the same time. In the track the 6P and in the streets standard belts. My house lower layer frame was almost finish. Garage doors comes to those holes. My car spent a lot time in front of this building site. Later 2010 I was bored the D2 coilovers. In standard driving those were too noisy and threads were stuck even I hadn't drive in winters. Rear end couldn't adjust enough low and front opposite couldn't adjust enough high. So too poor quality and design for me. So Bilstein PSS10 was the answer. Bilstein you don't get the upper strunt mounting with it. Purpose is to use original, but i used original-Nismo combination. Nismo bushings I did the assembly in the winter 2010 and installed the kit spring 2011. So later more.

Okay. The end of 2009 Like i said last time camber was badly wrong in track. So Adam/Z1Auto from states sent me Eibach camber and toe correction kit. Install was quite straightforward job. Only toe bolt needed more adjust space. Dremmel did the job Front Z emblem was badly worn (poor quality) so i decided to polish it. Under the crome paint was gold paint so it became quite nice. One cruising picture between this. It's taken autumn 2009 Original leather seats were worn out some point. Leather was cracked. Especially drivers seat. First I cleaned the seats with this normal market leather cleaner. And seats were really dirty. Then the worn out parts. I bought this kind off scuff master from UK and this was really good stuff And put it to the worn parts After the scuff treatment, same company Conditioner. This was also great product. It smell long time fresh leather. Same target after the scuff and conditioner. Quite different look. And whole driver seat after the treatment. Winter came and car went to the winter storage. December 2009 I bought a 630 square meter building plot, and 2010 I started to build a 240 m2 house where I will have 67 m2 carage under the house. It took a lot my time 2010 and 2011 so I didn't have so much time with the car but later more.

Long time I haven't wrote updates. I have read this forum regularly and got a lot information and also bought some parts here. Would you like if I write what has happened since 2009.

I have also tried to find varis arising-I front lip with reasonable price. I also asked Z-1 and RHDJapan and both were over 1000 € shipped with tax. I heard from reliable source that those UK varis lips that for example envy sold for about 450£ were not genuine. It may be that you already knew it. Shoot me if I'm wrong. Original lip cost in japan about 600 € (without the undertray) so it would be a little impossible to get it in UK 450 £. I don't mind is it genuine or not if quality is good, but i havn't even found good copies anymore. Best for me is to get it inside the EU, so i don't have to pay 23% tax (in Finland). From US and Japan is same situation. Overseas delivery and tax = overhigh price.

I had D2 coilovers 2 years and i didn't like those at all. There is too many things wrong in those kit. Back coils clatter in sharp bumps (very annoying). Back lower fastener is wrong size and lower bolt treat is missing. That you can replace with longer bolt and nut. Front thread rust in 1 year, and i finally broke those plates when i try get it open. And I drive Z only in the summers. D2 has no place for the brake lines or ABS sensor. Of course you can fasten those with some cable tie as i did 350z should also have upside down damper in back. D2 has normal. D2 was good coilover on the track but not suitable for daily driving. Now i have Bilstein PSS10 and i have to say it's worth every penny. So my advise, save your money and buy some better coilovers. Actual pictures D2 Bilstein (notice: Nurburgring tested ) Also good idea is to change your ARBs to adjustable ones and heavier drop links.

That is actually half bumper in full carbon fiber and painted half. So it's one part and Seibon TT as said before.

I like this carbon plenum idea alot I just don't think making this would be easy. Have you tought the plenum water inlet and outlet. Are you going to make those or should we pass by those. One part that i would buy right a way is this mirror outside triangle. I know there is many covers, but none has done it full carbon.

It took a while, as i had few track days. Here are pictures from those. Unfortenately i also slip a little over the curb (don't know, is the curb the right word) and my toe-in is now totally screwed up. Now is good time to change missing camber and toe kit. Luckily adam from z1 had these in stock so it's coming. First pictures from the track. I spent my time now with drifting. (sorry if pictures are too big) shots from way home. And now seibon tt pictures

It took a while, as i had few track days. Here are pictures from those. Unfortenately i also slip a little over the curb (don't know, is the curb the right word) and my toe-in is now totally screwed up. Now is good time to change missing camber and toe kit. Luckily adam from z1 had these in stock so it's coming. First pictures from the track. I spent my time now with drifting. (sorry if pictures are too big) shots from way home. And now seibon tt pictures

Something new has happened. I Removed rear wiper and changed rear badge and installed led rear light (thanks to Alex). I bought the complete set of black Z Emblems. Those looked fine in front with the CF front lip, but rear not. It was too big and style was like it supposed not to be there. Now i tried the other thing. Fender Z with little modification. I like it. It's right size and silver satin is correct. It's also accomplish the heritage of Z (old Z:s had round Z emlems, not Nissan) Two pairs of silver bulbs And finally my CF seibon TT is now painted

I'm only going by what Rota told me on Tuesday! Is your front wheel the 18x8.5 +30 or +35? Gaz Front 18x8,5 et +25 Rear 18x9,5 et +28

I don't agree this. I have same staggered setup and as you can see here is torque 18x8,5 in front with brembos, no spacers and I can sure that there is plenty of space to caliber. 9,5 to front is also okay, but i didn't want 255 or 265 tire and 245 is little bit narrow to 9,5" wheel. For me Rota recommended this staggered setup.

Hi The fit was perfect but the part was crooked. I had to make a little support using thin and light U-profile aluminium to keep it straight, but that is under the car. In those pictures there isn't yet any support and it fits quite well. Now with the support it's perfect.

Here you go. viewtopic.php?f=3&t=17064

My car is doing the exact the same but only when i first turn the TCS off and then do some wheel spins Naturally the tcs light is then still off, but the slip light come too and i can't get tcs back on or the slip light off until i shut down and restart the engine. So this is not major problem for me, becouse everythin works fine when i keep the tcs on and not burn my tires. I think it still shouldn't do this...

Thanks for the comments. Here in Finland our main language is finnish and actually also swedish as well (two language country), but to be honest many of us can't speak swedish as well than english. Thanks to EU and Internet Pictures have taken in place where usually people do some donuts, so i might also do some wheelspin but those marks are no mine. My fotographer thought that those marks would suit to the picture with Z. Thanks also for the answers to the questions. I have thought also the Utec but that Haltech sounds even better. Here we have several resellers who can tune it. It's a little bit pricy but in my experience ECU is wrong place to save money.

Hi all I bought my Z in april this year. Since that I have read this well organized forum and learnt a lot about this car. Thanks for that. Here I Finland we have one good Nissan club and i'm ofcourse the member of it but the problem is that here is mainly SX:s, ZX and Skylines but very rare 350Z:s. I think that these have here under 100 pcs and only few owners are interested to know the car they drive. Before this I owned many Hondas. The latest was 03 Civic Type-R which I bought brand new and had 5 years. That time I built it to be a good track racer. About 250 hp (still NA) and quarter mile (et) time was under 14 (so this is the refence to the Z ). This Z that I have now is year 04 and when i bought it it was driven only 35 tkm. In the summer i made some modifications. Engine: Nismo CAI Nismo Radiator Cap, Oil filler Cap, Floor mats Blox 5/8" plenum spacer Hondata termal intake manifold gasget Engine grounding kit Skunk2 true dual exhaust Chassis D2 Coilovers Cusco front strunt bar Exterior Seibon carbon VS front lip Seibon carbon TT rear lip (not in the pictures yet) Painted engine cover (silver / black) Carbon radiator cooling plate S2000 antenna Wheels: Rota torque sport bronze 18". 8,5" wide front and 9,5" rear. Falken 452 tires. 245/40 front and 275/40 rear. Buddy club bronze lightweight nuts. Original Work wheels on wintertyres. Brakes: Original Brembo with Ferodo pads. I also had short shifter but it was some china cheap crap, it was noisy and shifts were worse than without that, so i throw it away. I had been very happy for the Z. It's not fast but it definitely sporty, good looking and fantastic to drive. Gears are not as good as honda make, but ok. Engine could also give 100 hp/l, what is minimum for my opinion and more revable. Still i love this and these minor thinks can always change. In future I keep on reading here and the Z is going to have more force. There is two questions that i haven't find the answer 1) What is the good way to remap the ECU. a) Is it possible to straight remap (in some nissans is ?). Does someone have used a programmable chip. c) Is piggybag good way. d) Or is there any good aftermarket replaceable ECU:s that suits to Z. In Civic I used Hondata K-Pro and that was awesome. 2) Have anyone changed original seats to seats that don't have airbags. How the airbag control unit thinks about it. Does that fails the whole airbag system. So do I need some sort of airbag simulator for that and who sells those. And finally pictures for you. These are few months old but it looks now quite same. Thanks for the pictures to my friend Freddy. And one artistic one