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andyvvc

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Everything posted by andyvvc

  1. Sadly, i dont think i can just 'swap' the rear sections over. The mid-pipe will need to be replaced too because the one i got with the K1 is specific to that rear section. I dont think it will swap to a single-pipe-into-a-rear-collector design. (I might be wrong here!) Im in a pickle because i really like the raw look of the K1 - the lack of a rear back collector makes it look really aggressive, especially as my car now sits lower on eibach pro springs. Im really not keen on the look of the exhausts that still use collectors - hence me buying the K1 from ESR. The K1's single killer downfall is that even at low throttle (2000rpm for example) it can sound insanely loud when you apply even a small amount of acceleration. I cant get away with that level of noise any longer sadly (Im amazed the local plod haven't pulled me yet tbh) I run the exhaust with the rear bungs in and the only noticable power loss is top-end (5,500rpm+) when the non-bunged system seems a little freer revving. The noise reduction and changes to the sound of the system *with* the bungs are actually very good ! If i can get that level of sound deadening with bungs near the flanges i would be happy. I can then remove te awful looking rear bungs to complete the asthetic look to the rear of the system. EDIT - Sorry about the second thread. I felt i had gone off-topic after deciding to keep the K1
  2. All, Went to ExhaustsUK in Sheff. Very good looking place and some useful info from their chaps. Cant do anything withthe centre baffle box (cant replace with a silencer because not enough room). Suggestion was that for 35 quid they can put some small bungs in at the rear flanges on the K1 where the rear can sections meet the main pipe. This sound viable? I want to remove the bungs from the rear cans but doing so means that the K1 is faaaaar too loud for daily use Adding bungs in higher up ought to solve this i guess by quieting the exhaust just like the rear bungs do. I can then remove the rear bungs... ExhaustUK also do their own £295 rear system which looks good - like OEM/Nismo but a smaller rear collector and larger rear pipes. I'd prefer to keep the K1 of course
  3. lol - when people ask me how loud the K1 is, i'll tell them its as loud as NOT having an exhaust on the car ! I'm rather hoping the lads at ExhaustsUK can do something with that baffle then. I guess a standard silencer ought to be enough? The traditional large rear cannister must upset exhaust flow something cronic to reduce the noise as much as it does...?
  4. I've spoken to "ExhaustsUK" in Sheffield and the bloke there reckons they might be able to help. Until they see the sytem they wont know for sure, so as its only 30 miles from me in Notts im gonna pop over this Saturday and see what they can do. If they cant do anything, i may have to sell the K1 and buy an alternate, quiter-but-still-loud-on-WOT exhaust doh! Can i see vultures circling overhead, looking for a K1 bargain....? lol
  5. Cheers Stew. TBH i like the look of the K1 - its aggresive and the lack of a big rear cannister like the standard OEM exhaust gives it a more, well, *evil* look to the rear of the car. The idea of paying £900 + for a UK sourced back-box just to get a quieter exhaust isnt a prospect im willing to pursue, espacially as there will be zero power gains (350z, ECU etc etc). Despite this, i love the look of the 5Zigen etc. I really like the idea of getting someone/someplace to have a look at that central cannister and maybe chop it out and replace with a bespoke one that muffles the roar a little better, thus letting me run the exhaust at a similar noise level to if it had the bungs in.
  6. Well, i called Gran Fabrications and it seems they (he) only works on his own exhaust systems. So im still looking for a Notts/Derbyshire fabricator to have a look at cutting out and adding a more 'muffled' cannister. Any ideas of who i can try ?
  7. I'm gonna try giving "Gran Fabrications" a call on Monday. They are local to me and it sounds like the chap who runs it knows what he is doing (found a link from some classic car sites and bike sites) I'll post back and let everyone know what happens. Cheers for the advice !
  8. Ekona - i assume you are referring to the slightly larger section to the far left of the pic? Any idea if theres anyone reliable in the Midlands/Nottingham area that might be able to cut out and replace said baffle with a bigger unit? Maybe i can give some place a call and chat to them about getting this work done? Im cautious about getting it cut out and then having a fecked system which starts to blow etc The K1 (if i can quieten it a fair bit!) can stay on the car Thanks guys !
  9. This should be a pic/link to the rear and mid section of the K1 - anything that will fit this Adam? Im really looking for twin cans i guess that are muffled internally and *dont* need bungs to make then sensible at town speeds. The K1 cans seem to have no mufflinh/internal baffles at all [/img]
  10. Thanks Adam. I sadly dont have any of the old exhaust (OEM) parts. They were blowing hence the upgrade to the K1 system and new Y pipe. Basically, the Y pipe drops into a centre section, which splits off at its end into two channels. Looks to me like the 5Zigen Pro Racer will fit this centre section, but the 'cannister' style Greedy and other most likely will not ? Its never easy is it
  11. Thanks all! Quick Q tho - i thought the ESR Y pipe was a slightly wider pipe? Or am i worng here? I know it gives better flow than the normal pipe. That Greddy looks sweet ! Any idea if this will fit against the remainder of a K1 system though? (K1 splits off to the centre pipe at the same point as the Greedy would join it as best i can tell) ie i would keep the Y pipe, keep the centre pipe of the K1, and then fit the Greddy to that...? EDIT: Actually, just realised i cant have this - cos the K1 has a split out to the right side from its centre section iirc for the right side can ANOTHER EDIT: I could just buy a new mid pipe too to connect from the Y pipe and therefore sell the K1 complete afterwards...? How much would the Greddy and a mid pipe be from the US shipped? Is the Greddy loud-ish on WOT but more subtle than the K1 at town speeds? I want more noise than OEM !
  12. The K1 that i run on the 350 is a shade too loud now, especially as next door are expecting a little one soon ! I really dont think its ideal for me to be starting the car and causing seismic shockwaves when there a little person trying to sleep next door I'd like to get hold of a replacement rear section (Y pipe back) to replace the K1. I have the UPRATED Y pipe that ESR were selling - so im not too sure what will fit that size Y pipe properly? I want an exhaust back section that is: 1 - twin rear pipes 2 - not too loud at all at moderate speeds/start up 3 - sounds quite loud and supercar-esque at WOT/higher revs and when the throttle is 'blipped' 4 - maybe one with blue-flame style tips? Anyone (or maybe any of the traders) got any suggestions? Whatever i order needs to fit the uprated Y pipe nicely And it must not roar like a beast at 1,500rpm cold start like the K1 does lol I'd also rather not use bungs - so the back section should be acceptable at start up, and only roar when a fair bit of throttle is applied
  13. Does no-one except JAA350Z and mysef get this noise..? Are the rest of you driving too slowly to ever approach WOT from 4,600rpm...?
  14. I used to run an S14a (200sx) uprated to about 250bhp. Lighter than the 350 but not quite as powerful. Same 0-60 and 0-100 times i reckon. The 200 always 'felt' faster because it delivered its power in a lump when the turbo had spooled up. The Zed is far more progressive, and you have to thwaap it from about 4,600rpm in 2nd, 3rd etc to get it *really* shifting. Its deceptively quick tho when you push it. But i agree it doesnt like being pushed from lower revs - seems very placid from 2000rpm thru to redline in any gear... i guess thats the progressive nature of the engine tho, there is no sudden surge so its easier to predict in corners etc.
  15. I'm using the Eibach Hubcentric 20mm spacers. Had them fitted at ESR months ago - not had any issues with them. Along with some lower Eibach springs, these really help the RAYS to sit properly in the arch. As and when i pull my finger out, i will upload a few piccies
  16. Hi all, I've noticed recently (might be the cold weather, might be the new oil) that my car makes a faint "chattering" noise under WOT between 4800 to 5300rpm. 53 plate GT spec. Exhaust mod, intake panel, lowered, Plenum spacer. Im now running Castrol Edge 5w 30 oil. At first i wasnt too concerned by this, because the car has always had a faint chatter around this area since i bought it. There is no loss of power, no smoke, nothing sinister except the noise. I think its coming from the engine bay, but it could be dash rattle/zizz or even cables under the bonnet resonating for all i know Anyone else get this when they are on WOT ? Seems to be more prevolent in 4th and 5th gears. The only info i can find was from the US Z Tech forum, where several users report the same noise and symptoms. Does the 350 have VVT ? Is it VVT rattle maybe as it kicks in? My old 200SX used to have some VVT rattle at lower revs when cold - that sounded like a tractor it was that bad lol Thoughts appreciated ta
  17. Hmmm Nissan main dealers. Gotta love them Ive had good and bad experiences with the same dealership in Nottingham. GOOD: Really patient sorting out the knocking noise from the front of my car - turned out to be a loose drop link. BAD: They replaced the two rear drop links first - even to the noise was from the F R O N T of the car... GOOD: Sorted my brake bleed out for me BAD: Snapped the ruddy caliper bleed nipple on the rear caliper ! Then told me it wasnt availble as a spare and i would need a new caliper - 900 quid! BigPhil came to rescue with the official Nissan part number for a new bleed nipple - 22 quid each ! GOOD: Had a bad squeal at startup from my 'new' belts (fitted by a mate a few months earlier at his garage) Took car to Nissan for a free look-see... BAD: apparently i need new belts (erm, they are already new!) and new tensioners! They wanted over 400 quid. I got my mate to tighten the belts a little after they had stretched from new - no more squealing. I wont tell you about the 4 month old front discs i bought frm ESR that apprently now need 'replacing' with standard Nissan parts....at over 600 quid for the pair!!! (The ESR discs BTW are totally fine!) Honestly, complete swings and roundabouts with Nissan - either you get great service or a complete farce....do they flip a coin each day i wonder..? :o)
  18. Both myself and Lydia are stunned at this news, and wish Phil a speedy recovery. We were only up at ESR a few weeks back getting bits on the 350 done. All the best to you Andrew, and the family. We're all rooting for Phil!
  19. I've got Eibach springs and shocks, plus spacers coming from ESR. The car should end up dropped by about 25mm all round. I'm assuming the alignment will then need to be checked and setup. Does anyone have the correct camber/toe in settings for the front and rear of the 350? I'd like to make sure that whoever does the alignment has the correct settings lol Would also be good to hear from anybody who has lowered their Zed - did you use any alternate camber settings etc when it was all re-aligned? Cheers all
  20. Dammit! I didnt realise the spacers and springs were quite so cheap. Is this for a set of two, or for a set of four..? Also - spacers + springs surely need new shocks too What's recommended for a new set of shocks for the Zed? I have an awful feeling im going to spenmd more money at ESR again. Doh!
  21. Reet then. Latest update (and cheers to all for the advice so far too!) I've got two nipples on order thru Nissan. I've agreed to pay for these based on the garage sorting out the (professional) removal of the old nipple, fitting the new ones, and then re-flushing the brake system all for FREE. I'm still waiting to hear back from the garage to confirm the details. The nipples are on back-order apparently anyway lol! I'll wait and see what they do before i name and shame (although anyone searching thru my older posts will find the name of the garage). In their defense they were really good to me the last few times i have used them. Lets hope this pattern continues
  22. Ahhh! Perhaps this is the issue? maybe it has snapped *inside* the caliper? If this has happened, am i fubar'd? Or could it be drilled out and a new nipple attached?? EDIT - already answered by Phil in ludicrously quick time! Thanks again!! ^^^^^
  23. Cheers Phil! I will give this part number to them.... will see what they say. The will probably tell me its coated in Unicorn horn and will cost me 900 quid anyway lol
  24. Took the car in to get the brake fluid changed. Got a call a few mins back to say the bleed nipple on the rear caliper has been snapped off (by the garage). System was only half bled, so its half new and half old fluid = hardly ideal! £900+ for a new rear Brembo caliper from Nissan. I'm chatting to the garage again shortly to see what they are prepared to do - apparently the nipple can't be ordered seperately...? Can anyone shed light on what they have done? Here's an overview: 1 - bled the two fronts. Put new fluid in the reservior. 2 - tried to bleed rears - one nipple snapped 3 - said that nipples should be greased regulrly to prevent them snappng (is this true?) Is this even the correct bleed order for the nipples? I thought it should be rear, front, rear, front? Do the nipples need to be greased? The calipers are kelpt clean - the cover on the nipple is always checked (by me) when i wash the car. Never been missing, loose etc. I'm worried they are going to try and fob me off (hopefully not!). I fail to see how its my fault? If the nipple was too hard to turn, then surely i ought to have been called and asked if i wanted them to proceed with the work? Thoughts appreciated all.
  25. What a great day it turned out to be! In all there were 24 cars active on the airstrip. My 350z, an RX8, and 22 MX5's of varying guises (SC'd, Turbo'd, track-prepared, bog standard etc) The airfield was split into two - top part being an advance track. Bottom half for beginners. There was also a seperate mulch-wood drift track. Cars were allowed to go to any section of the track to participate - just join the queue then have your go. Minimal tyre wear. Minimal brake wear. I dont think i got above 70mph - the courses were more about maintaining speed thru the curves and controling any slide on the sweeping turns. It was the first time i have driven the 350 in anger and it was a real eye opener! The traction control is excellent. Even on the mulch-wood surface which offered little grip, the TC was up to the job. As soon as i turned it off.......sliiiiiiiiiide and donut Shows just how vital TC can be on poorer surfaces. All-in-all a very good day. Only used a quarter tank of fuel. No tyre damage, no knackered brakes, nowt. I also had a few goes at controlling a power slide on the main circuit - harder than it looks I have to say. However, i did manage to hold a wee slide, and also learned how to recover from such an incident correctly. All good stuff. The lads that run these MOT sessions are very laid back and very helpful. Best 80 quid i have spent on the track ever i think Piccies if anyone wants a look. The 350 looks nice! They also caught multiple pics of my power slide and recovery which also look cool http://www.phoenixfives.org.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2330&sid=86e339dabeba2787070183cc1ab4e670
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