Martin W

Looking forward to receiving them - Refurb option is booked. Question on Tyres though. These are 19" x 8.5" Front/ 9.5" Rear If I put 245 on the front (as Nissan do with the RE040 8.5") but at 35 Profile Front Tyre sidewall = 35% x 245 = 85.75mm (3.37") and I put 275 on the back - Question 1 - Is that what you had & is that too wide? - nearly 11" Then by my calcs To maintain the same height front and rear I want a sidewall which is 275/ 85.75 = 31 or say 30 profile - which in theory would make the sidewall 2mm smaller at the back. Thoughts ?

You have PM

Bit dull today - hard to get a piccy which does the 3d effect justice:)

19'' rotas will be about £900 per set. What sort of deal could you do Phil on 19" ( I assume these are 8.5J & 9.5J) with tyres?

Give me time! I work. These look lovely unfitted. I just need some daylight hours to fit them

Received today - gorgeous!!

what's involved in getting the pod to bits?

Well I saw how good the blue looked and saw also that many people couldn't see them in daylight. Red on the other hand is easily seen in both day and night, and wouldn't destroy night vision. Halfway down the Blue LED thread, he let slip that you didn't need the resistors after all, so the challenges are: - Dismantling the various bits without breaking them/ clips - Soldering (this doesn't bother me, had some practice and own a micro soldering iton) - getting the face replaced - getting the needles back on in the right place So all I need is a guinea pig?.........

pm sent

PM sent

I think sticking some carbon on is about my personal limit. i can cut double sided tape quite well. Wonder what Red nail varnish carefully applied would look like?

Well, I just read the threads on my350z.com, jeez!!!.... It was a nice idea.

anyone tried changing the stock lights in the instrumentation pod/ heater controls. I saw an ad for 20 Red LED's on fleabay the other day and wondered just how hard it could be. Anyone?

I clobbered some rubble on the M4 ealrier this year, an djust handed the whole mess to my insurers to sort out. 2 Rays, 2 tyres, 2 sets of susepension, exhaust, and Cat later.... The bill came to somthing like £8500. (New Under car really...) Now my problem is changing Insurers... but have you tried them? Let them sue the council... they are used to it just a thougth!!

A psychiatrist I used to know successfully argued 'provocation' in what sounds a similar case...

Showing my age here.... I remember having to walk past 1 of those everyday as a paper boy thinking " One day...." lovely..

I'm gutted too. I left it a bit late and turned back for home at 4:15 when I saw signs just before the A2 warning long delays J30 and higher

let me see if I can get the chores out the way fast then

I just spotted this. probably too late, but where is everyone meeting up?

I just go on showing my ignorance.. There's no obvious connection between the Chrome expansion tank and the radiator, so I assumed the hose runs from the bottom of the tank to the rad. Turbo shop said to fill from both Rad first and top up the Tank. so i assumed there is only one connector, and this order is necessary to allow levels to equalize in both rad and tank. I haven't got a car at present to look at - will examine with interest when it sback. Local garage owner is a Z fanatic, so will pick his brain when its sorted..

words let me down. maybe I shoul dhave said 'pressure test' by which I meant I assume they will put a known pressure in place of the Rad Cap, which is nowhere near the source of the 'spurts' ( The chrome replacement for the stock bottle) which appears to have a machined hole almost dead centre. Its this that is spuirting. Its the sort of test Ive had Kwikfit do before years ago. The more I hink about it, I can't get why a chrome bottle (which the distributor says does not have a 'valve') should blow before the Radcap.!!

Didn't think to check the heater, It was about 70 degrees F here yesterday. The spurts /leaks came from a machined hole in the top of the chrome coolant cylinder which can be seen in the photos. I put the car in for a compression check at 8a.m. so i can't answer more I'm afraid. Turbo installer said to fill via rad with chrome tank open. which implies only 1 pipe connecting the 2? - at the bottom - and yes I understand the airlock issue. No leaks around Rad cap, just from the top of the replacement coolant filler, whcih is in exactly the same place as the original, but smaller, so as to allow space for the Air intake pipes to put one of the Air filters in the nose at the front.

It went in for a check first thing anyway. Too risky not to really. Bogs me off that its now a 4 day wait till they can fit me in !!! What I can't figure is if its not a Pump issue, and there'ss no loud noise as mentioned above, that leaves thermostat (aka sender?) or the Little hole which must be a pressure relief valve. 1 question which might at least help my understanding is - if hypothetically I'd lost all the coolant, which i had not and there was no coolant in the system, with a normal Oil temp level, what would you expect the Water temp indicator to show?

OK - topped up - Went for 15 miles - stopped halfway Water temp gauge at its usual just below horizontal mark Opened bonnet - coolant dribbling out. Headed for home. Water temp gauge starts fluctuating - heading a third of the way towards RED, then falls and fluctuates and ends the journey exactly level. Oil Temp throughout all this at its usual 85 degrees. Coolant now gushing out all over the drive So I started out thinking a dodgy relief valve later on this morning, but does this sound like a intermittently on the way out water pump could be at fault??