nodge69 Posted October 10, 2014 Share Posted October 10, 2014 Ok I know there have been various issues around the tachometer but I think I've got something different going on here. I've scoured the forum but apologies if it has been covered before. I've had the car a few weeks and thought I'd noticed it on the test drive but put it down to paranoia. But it seems to be getting worse. Basically the motion on the needle on my rev counter isn't smooth, it seems to move in jumps especially in the first 1/3 of travel. I'm not talking about the jumpy needle upon changing gear which I know quite a few people (including me) have, or the needle sticking completely like some Roadster owners have suffered in sunlight. Here's a quick video of what I mean. It's actually more noticeable when driving but you can see it in this video mostly when the needle is falling. It doesn't seem to correspond to the engine revs. The "pause" as the revs fall past 1400 RPM I think is also another issue which some people have experienced? I'm thinking obviously the counter mech itself, the engine speed sensor or least likely an ECU or wiring issue. I guess the engine speed is detected from the crackshaft angle sensor which I think is located next to the flywheel? It's an HR. If it's just the counter then no big deal though this car is still under a warranty so I should be able to get it sorted. If it's the sensor then I'm more worried about it affecting the performance of the engine, though I have to admit it seems to drive fine. Maybe a little rough at very low revs though I suspect it still has the original plugs in there, trying to find out at the moment. Sorry that went on a bit - any comments or suggestions welcome! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimboy2 Posted October 11, 2014 Share Posted October 11, 2014 I too have the bouncy rev needle you also mentioned but I do t have this issue. Have you tried the peddle dance to reset? Might cure it. Just a idea, apart from that I'm no help sorry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nodge69 Posted October 12, 2014 Author Share Posted October 12, 2014 Hi jimboy, yes I've done all of the possible resets but it didn't help at all. Still, can't be any harm in doing them anyway! Thanks for the reply though, just knowing that yours doesn't look like mine is helpful in that I know something is wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roscoe Posted October 12, 2014 Share Posted October 12, 2014 Do you feel the car hesitate when being driven? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nodge69 Posted October 13, 2014 Author Share Posted October 13, 2014 I do get a bit of hesitation when in low speed traffic in 2nd gear, probably around the 1k to 1.5k RPM range. I don't think the plugs have ever been changed, though I'm still waiting to find out from the Nissan dealer who did all of the servicing before I bought the car. I guess it could be that a proper service is in order. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
-Bradders- Posted October 13, 2014 Share Posted October 13, 2014 Mine does this, i just look away, problem solved haha. i hear it can be a cleaning the trottle body job to correct it though, i just haven't got round to doing it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nodge69 Posted October 13, 2014 Author Share Posted October 13, 2014 Haha yeah I'll try and keep my eyes on the road instead! Yep throttle body clean could be in order though a bit daunted by it to be honest especially as I've got two of the buggers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roscoe Posted October 13, 2014 Share Posted October 13, 2014 If it's the same as what I had with my hr it's a issue with the exhaust valve timing. Common problem fixed with an uprev remap. Speak to mark at abbey. 👠Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samsniss350z Posted October 15, 2014 Share Posted October 15, 2014 I'm in agreement with Nodge, I'd have a go a cleaning the throttle body first off. There is plenty of info to read regarding this so as you don't **** it up, as long as you don't do anything daft you should be OK, plus the sense of achievement will give you confidence in attacking other jobs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The_Lord Posted October 15, 2014 Share Posted October 15, 2014 I have the same issue with mine especially in slow traffic. I feel the car hesitate and "jump" sometimes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nodge69 Posted October 15, 2014 Author Share Posted October 15, 2014 (edited) Ok thanks for all the info everyone. I'm quite happy tackling jobs on cars, have done quite a bit in my time though I guess all of the scary stories around the throttle body has just made me nervous. I'll get in there sometime over the coming weekends, and then try the MAF sensors too if there is no improvement. The Uprev remap would be nice but I'll have to save a few more pennies first! Btw I have discovered that the plugs have never been changed so I'll get that sorted soon with a major service. Edited October 15, 2014 by nodge69 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The_Lord Posted October 15, 2014 Share Posted October 15, 2014 Please let me know how it goes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nodge69 Posted October 16, 2014 Author Share Posted October 16, 2014 I seem to have fixed the hesitation issue on my car! I performed the Exhaust Valve Timing Control Learning procedure and now the performance at low revs, especially going into second gear is much better. I haven't seen any reference to this procedure on this forum but I found it in the service manual. From reading some of the threads on an American forum it seems some people think that the mechanism can be affected by different engine oils. The dealer who sold me the car did a mini service when I bought it which might explain why I didn't experience it on the test drive. My rev needle movement has improved but it's still a bit jerky. Time to get the tools out this weekend I reckon! Please let me know how it goes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The_Lord Posted October 16, 2014 Share Posted October 16, 2014 It would be really good if you can share the procedure with us Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nodge69 Posted October 16, 2014 Author Share Posted October 16, 2014 No probs! I used the 08 service manual available here http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/350Z/coupe/2008_Coupe+Roadster/EC.pdf (page 76) but in short you need to do this: 1. Start engine and warm it up to normal operation temperature. 2. Set shift lever in neutral position and confirm that following electrical or mechanical loads are not applied. - Headlamp switch is OFF - Air conditioner switch is OFF - Rear defogger switch is OFF - Steering wheel is in the straight-ahead position, etc 3. Keep the engine speed between 1,800 and 2,000 rpm at 20 seconds. It's pretty simple though I found holding the revs constant to be quite difficult. On my car the revs hunted around a bit despite the pedel being held still though maybe that is the calibration in progress. I found it best to get to just over 1800 RPM as it will rise slightly before falling again. I turned the engine off after performing the above and then restarted and went for a test drive. I did this last night and the difference was very noticeable straight away. I did a cold to hot cycle this morning driving to work and it continued to behave itself. Hope it works for you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The_Lord Posted October 16, 2014 Share Posted October 16, 2014 I will definitely try it this weekend. Did you heat the car up staying still or on a drive? Thanks so much! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nodge69 Posted October 16, 2014 Author Share Posted October 16, 2014 I had driven home from work so it was nice and hot. The term 10 minute drive comes up a lot in the service manual so I'd probably do at least that before doing it. Let me know how you get on! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The_Lord Posted October 18, 2014 Share Posted October 18, 2014 Tried it today but no change whatsoever Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nodge69 Posted October 20, 2014 Author Share Posted October 20, 2014 Aww that's annoying. Did you try it a few times? I've no idea how easy it is to get it right, I may have just been lucky. Shame there isn't any feedback to show the calibration has been completed. I know that this procedure can also be done with the Nissan CONSULT-III service device which does give feedback. I guess Nissan would charge quite a lot though with no guarantee of a fix. Tried it today but no change whatsoever Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The_Lord Posted October 20, 2014 Share Posted October 20, 2014 I tried it 2-3 times. It would have been really good to have a consult device so I can do all the resets and start fresh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nodge69 Posted October 20, 2014 Author Share Posted October 20, 2014 There are a few on eBay at the moment but for silly money. The software (obviously pirated) is also available quite cheap along with some chinese copy interfaces. Still a few hundred quid with no guarantee that it will work though. Anyway, hope you find a solution for your problem mate, sorry it didn't work for you! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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