Jump to content

2013 370z sport track build :)


Recommended Posts

image_zpsqh3evpdh.jpeg

 

 

image_zpsdb3541a6.jpg

 

 

update 4/20/16

 

Update today...

 

Engine----

OBX LTH with DEI titanium wrap

Motordyne XYZ Y pipe with DEI titanium wrap

Custom single 3" side exit exhaust, 1- 18" bottle res, 1 ultra quiet res

Stillen gen 3 CAI with DEI gold wrap

My dual AOS setup

My PnP TB, upper and lower manifolds

My 48 row oil cooler

CJ motorsports large baffled oil pan

Venting valve vents to atmos

Gas tank cut in half for fuel starve fix

Gas tank vent line with Boyd rollover vent/check valve

Redline 5w30 oil

3qt accusump system

Tuned by Crucial Performance

 

 

Drive----

My rear 25 row diff cooler/Tilton pump with temp gauge

SPL solid diff bushings

Drop Eng. poly tranny mount

Redline diff fluid

Redline tranny fluid

 

Suspension----

Stance 2 way true type coilovers 18k/12k

SPL toe links

SPL traction arms

SPL rear chamber arms

Hotckins front sway bar

Rear sway bar deleted

SPL camber arms front

SPL rear knuckle bushings

SPL front end links

My rear eccentric lock out kit

Traction and yaw kill switch

 

Brakes-----

Z1 SS brake lines

Front brake cooling ducts

Rear brake cooling ducts

Rbf600 fluid

Z1 2 piece rear rotors

Z1 2 piece front rotors

Carbotech XP12 front pads and XP10 rear pads

ABS system delete with Wilwood proportional valve

 

Aero----

My Front splitter

My Canards

My complete flat bottom

My rear diffuser

My front vender vents

APR 71" GT-250 wing chassis mounted

 

 

Wheels/tires

RPF-1 18x10.5 +15 square

RS-3's 285/35/18 square

45mm rear spacer with 10.9 hardware

3" ARP extended rear wheel studs

 

Safety

OMP fiberglass FIA halo seat.

OMP 6 point FIA belt with 2" shoulder straps for Hans device.

Hans III device.

OMP belt with 8.8 ring hardware

10.9 hardware holding seat to raisers and base.

Planted FIA steel base

Planted FIA aluminium raisers.

FIA 1.75" roll cage

 

Misc.

Rear wide body fenders

Deka 11lbs battery

3 quart washer bottle in trunk

Full car air bag system delete

All non essential wires deleted throughout

Vinyl wrapped

AC system deleted along with two pulleys

ABS system deleted

 

 

Coming soon

Pneumatic air lift jack system

SPL front impact bushings

SPL front lower arm bushings

SPL rear upper arm bushings

LSD

Engine mounts

Slicks

Edited by synolimit
  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Replies 91
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

24/7 DTRL

 

image-18_zpsf20d1c81.jpg

 

i wanted to install my AOS but as i started to i knew i had to move the windshield washer fluid bottle. so i cut the wires to the plug and added length. then i hid them and the hose running the fluid to the spray nozzles through the rubber grommet into the cab. then i ran them to the trunk following wires that were already there so they are all hidden and out of sight. i just need to drill and tap the bottle and put a fitting on it to match the OEM pump with a hose. its like a 1/2 ID hose i'll need.

 

image-18_zpsd901e802.jpg

 

IMG_0391_zps56b03282.jpg

 

IMG_0392_zps402e2cb6.jpg

 

IMG_0393_zpse2b6b6c6.jpg

 

IMG_0395_zpsbe248c73.jpg

 

IMG_0403_zps615f08d0.jpg

 

now i can install the AOS. i mounted it out of the engine bay since i believe most of what people catch in their catch cans is water! it looks like its all oil but its not. going from ambient temp to 200* back to ambient over and over causes a lot of condensation in a hollow big metal can. out of the engine bay the only temp swings will be a couple of degrees. this might also help with power since the manifold sucks hot dirty oil vapor into the engine from the PCV's. having the hot air go out of the engine where the outside air will hit it and cool the AOS down, the air returning to the manifold will be much cooler.

 

FYI, the reason i call it an AOS is because its not just a catch can. there is internal baffling that separates the oil from the air. at the bottom of the AOS is a hose with a plug that you just pull when you do an oil change and everything in the AOS will come on out. if need be you can also just pull the AOS off and break it apart to clean it real good.

 

IMG_0402_zps706cd1a9.jpg

 

IMG_0401_zpsb5584fa7.jpg

 

IMG_0399_zps24bddc87.jpg

 

IMG_0400_zpse826aacf.jpg

 

IMG_0398_zpsa434778e.jpg

 

IMG_0397_zps7189ca3e.jpg

 

IMG_0396_zps906cb999.jpg

 

image-18_zps3d8945c0.jpg

 

image-18_zps832a68e0.jpg

 

Idea behind the AOS.

 

AOS.jpg

Edited by synolimit
Link to post
Share on other sites

my new RPF1's. I went with a 18x9.5 +45 front and 18x10.5 +15 rear.

 

What I'm super stoked about is weight!! Online I see the OEM 19's weight (not 100% sure about the 2013's) 23.2 front and 23.8 rear. My new wheels are 17.4 front and 19.05 rear says Enkie. Also, OEM tires are 29 front and 33 rear. My new tires just for DD and had some good reviews are Sumitomo HTR Z3's which in Tireracks shootout beat the Hancook V12's that seem popular around here. They are 27.84 front and 29.08 rear (my weight). I got 255/40 and 285/35. Just a tad wider and shorter than OEM but they were really cheap. Also because I got black wheels I went with Gorilla black lug nuts. They are a lot smaller so I should save weight there too. I'm also not putting my OEM tire sensors back so again more weight savings.

 

So total weight loss of unsprung weight should be about 32.5 lbs that I know of so far; 13.6 front and 18.9 rear not including sensors, lugs or new 20mm front spacers.

 

Now I did weigh the OEM rear wheel and tire (forget the front) and got 57.5 pounds. So online might be wrong. Either way I know ill lose over 20 pounds and that's key since most of the weight is on the rear wheels. I'm not one to believe 1 lbs of unsprung weight equals 20 lbs of sprung weight but here's to hoping for a 400 lbs diet :bowrofl:

 

 

image_zpsaae94421.jpg

 

Almost there!

 

image_zps1584d28a.jpg

 

image_zpsa40fd265.jpg

 

image_zpsc44f761c.jpg

 

image_zps827ba429.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok wheels are in and installed! The backs fit perfect. There is tons of room and its a perfect look too on the stock setup and specs. I know once I lower ill go more negative camber so it won't look so flush but that's the price you pay I guess for better handling.

 

The fronts are also pretty good at the moment. I think they'll look better with more negative camber again when I lower. Right now they are sticking out a little to much for my liking.

 

The rear needed no spacer obviously and its good at +15 offset. The fronts I went with the 20mm Z1 bolt on spacer. Overall that makes it +25 offset. I could have had the 15mm longer studs spacer work but I would of had almost no clearance with the caliper and frankly I didn't want to do the work! Also I don't like the idea of longer studs. Seems to easy to break being so long. The bolt ons were much easier and there is lots of clearance for bigger tires one day.

 

I did also have to get gorilla wheel rings so the wheels have a perfect fit to the hub centric rotors and spacers. I needed a 66.06 ID, 73mm OD rings.

 

The tires also seem pretty nice. Doesn't seem as easy to spin the back wheels which is a good thing since that means traction. They're only 10mm more than stock but since they're on a 10.5" wheel instead of a 10" wheel it might be more than just 10mm wider. At a 300 wear rating they also seem pretty sicky compared to the 140 of the stock RE050A's. They are also A LOT QUITER than the OEM tires! So far I think they will be a very nice DD tire!

 

Overall...

RPF1 18x9.5 +25, 255/40 HTR Zlll, Z1 hub centric bolt on 20mm spacer

RPF1 18x10.5 +15, 285/35 HTR Zlll

Gorilla hub centric rings 66.06mm ID, 73mm OD

Gorilla chrome black lugs

 

Lost 5.4lbs for each front wheel/tire including everything down to the lugs

Lost 8.7lbs for each rear wheel/tire including everything down to the lugs

 

Don't mind the silver. Couldn't get a black in any offset! Plasti dip to the rescue! Better pics later of the black...

 

image_zps5a2139dc.jpg

 

image_zps4202f192.jpg

 

image_zpsbf9b5988.jpg

 

image_zps90446e34.jpg

 

image_zps26e909a1.jpg

 

image_zps63094d7b.jpg

 

image_zps3a9b9dac.jpg

 

image_zps4f551506.jpg

 

 

image_zpsf2ae4afc.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

 

 

Decided to do a lightweight battery. Went with a etx15l which is basically a odyssey pc680, 11lbs. I highly doubt the Braille p2015 puts out what it says it puts out and everyone says Deka makes the brallies anyways. I ran that battery here in ohio for 2 years without issue. Also if you look at Dekas sheets, every ETX battery you find will have identical specs at any store with the same part number! I ended up buying a etx15l from autozone with a Duralast sticker on it.

 

I had to do a little work to get it to fit right but I had all the stuff so no big deal. I replaced the OEM tray with a lightweight 1/8th peice of aluminium, made 2 paper thin steel tubes to increase the height so the terminals would be at OEM height, and had to buy 2 steel cylinders so the OEM rings had something to fit around as a terminal. The etx batteries don't come with the right kind of terminal top like the OEM battery has. Last I relocated the negative ground wire which worked out perfect because there was a bracket there with the same size holes. Just a simple bolt down. The bracket was holding 2 relays so I just zip tied them to some wires.

 

All in all I'd guess I saved around 22lbs.

 

Since this is what drag racing mode looks like, I'm off to the scales tomorrow. Last time I was there I weighed 3280 with a full tank of gas which was down from 3361 bone stock and a full tank. This time I have the lighter wheels and tires, battery, seat removed, more sound deadening and more body panels. I always go with a full tank filled up 1 street away. Since I know what a gallon of gas weighs, its easy to guess how much fuel is out of the tank by counting the dots. Fingers crossed its a good number!

 

 

image_zps1ce29edf.jpg

 

image_zpsfe379e3e.jpg

 

 

image_zpsd5396d2f.jpg

 

image_zps96c93942.jpg

 

image_zps96342463.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

Today i installed some 18" resonators because when my exhaust is really cold above 4k i hear some rasp i hate. also there was some gargling on down shifting. there is no noise at all now! sounds way better! but its very quite now! im hoping the test pipes really kick it back up in loudness. also im making my own cai :)

 

So to update this I have all the parts needed but the filters. I ended up getting what you see in the pics. I'm going to cut my MAF sensors off the stock air boxes as its the same ID as the Stillen's. the couplings provide the bends needed and it will sit just like them.

 

Now doing this I've spent about $110 on the 6 couplings and clamps. I could save more if I bought a lot of each item and I was thinking about eliminating the 90* couplings as people on eBay sell pipe in a 90* bend. I'd just give them the length I needed since the filter end is shorter than the MAF section. The k&N filters that Stillen uses are $70 shipped from the cheapest place I could find online. So people out there doing drop in's for around $70, or whatever the drop in's cost, for $110 more you now have a Stillen setup! Its the same size pipe, same MAF, the only difference is the post MAF tubes. Z1's post MAF tubes run about $112 but this way you don't have to drop $500+ cash right away for Stillen. You can spend $180 first, get the cold air like the Stillen's, and then buy the post tubes and only have $292 invested!!

 

Parts needed

 

2- 2.5" straight couplings

2- 90* bent couplings

2- 45* bent couplings

2- 2.5" to 3" couplings

2- 2.5" long, 2.5" piece of pipe for in between the 90* and the 2.5" to 3" coupling

2- 2.5" long, 3" piece of pipe for the K&N filter to bite onto the end

2- K&N RU-2820 filters

16- hose clamps

1- 36" long 2.5" pipe

Then later if you want, post MAF tubes.

 

image_zpsca658e6d.jpg

 

image_zps713a5e05.jpg

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Dyno day

 

280hp 226tq with true dual CBE, my 2.5" CAI with stock accordion MAF tubes, 18" rpf1's with HTR Zlll's 285, my AOS and no tune.

 

I was very happy with my dyno since the AFR was not what I was expecting!! I was for sure going to be lean but on average I want to say around 12.1 with some dips into the high 11's. It may not be ideal for a NA car but its safe! From here on out I only have plans for test pipes, tune, maybe a crank pulley, lighter flywheel, and lighter rotors. Should crack 300hp then.

 

image_zps05e5b91b.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

Changed the oil, filter, tranny and diff fluid today. I also drained the AOS I made and I let it go for about 2000 miles. I was very surprised by the amount of oil! This bottle is about 2" in width you can see if that gives you an idea of just how much oil I kept from getting into the manifold and motor.

 

Also the rear diff fluid was only 6200 miles old. There were tons of metal shavings on the magnate and diff fluid always stinks to high heaven. I'm glad I got it changed out.

 

image_zpsecfeb317.jpg

 

image_zps3faa6b86.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

Installed long tube headers in about 4-5 hrs yesterday. It sucked! I had rasp with the no resonator top speed CBE when it was cold so I added 18" vibrant ones. The rasp was gone and it sounded way nicer but very quite in my ears. Now with the long tubes the rasp is back louder than before and it doesn't go away once warm. The volume is also a lot louder. I'm thinking about doing 12" resonators also to maybe quite it down but to delete some rasp. We'll see because I'm not sure where they'll fit and I don't really want to add weight.

 

Speaking of weight I went to a new scale in my new city. I was 3101 lbs with 10 dots on the gauge. Fully fueled like the other weights I guess to be around 3147 lbs. when I go drag racing I should be as low as 3067 lbs at 1/4 tank. one day maybe ill do a lighter flywheel, pulleys, and 2 piece rotors for more weight.

 

image_zps612c98ba.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

Garage line sold me a "prototype" LTH that's identical to the eBay OBX header and 99% like a Fast Intentions LTH. The only difference really is the scavenging star in the FI collector.

 

I installed these headers after wrapping with DEI titanium wrap and the fitment was perfect. The bottom center nut is hard to get on with where the pipes are but let's face it, LTH's are a PITA to install!

 

First thing I noticed on start up was the rasp! It was horrible! So I welded in some Helmholtz resonators in the X pipe right where the X pipe bolts to the header. This amazingly cut about 90% of the rasp but also if I had to guess cut about 20 decibels of volume which I didn't like.

 

Next I cut off my mufflers and straight piped them. The muffler I had, had the pipes 90 degree bend into the mufflers then 90 degree bend again out to the tips. I didn't like that flow design plus I wanted my volume back. Now I might have one of the loudest exhausts but just sounds insanely mean with zero rasp and zero drone.

 

I still have no tune and running rich so power can be made from a tune! I'm just happy the car is rich and not lean. After 6000rpm the AFR drops to 11.9 :confused:. If we target 12.5 AFR maybe, that's going to be some nice added power there.

 

Peak power was 13hp and 17tq but mid range gained anywhere from 11-17hp and 18-19tq. 293hp 243tq.

 

image_zps612c98ba.jpg

 

image_zps85dffdf0.jpg

 

image_zps65d85e9b.jpg

 

image_zps3096e23d.jpg

 

image_zpsa0643479.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

Just took my longest trip since the diff cooler gauge install. Drove about 45min (80mph) 35 highway and 10-15 min side streets. It was a cold 50 degrees out and the whole time on the highway the diff never stopped rising in temp. It got to 194* before I pulled off. I'm going to have to take a longer trip to see if it goes higher. Interesting to see at such a low temp outside the diff gets so hot. I can't imagine a hot summer day on a race track. No wonder people don't like the OEM vlsd! If you could keep the diff temp at a constant lower temp I bet it performs well-er haha.

 

image_zps19044622.jpg

 

All done.

 

So it was 34* out tonight but just driving again on the highway at 75 I was able to get the diff fluid up to 184*. I then hit the diff pump for the first time. Within 30 seconds it dropped to 160*. But it took another 9 minutes and 30 seconds to finish and reach its final temp of 144*. I was hoping for a cooler temp but I guess ill take it.

 

The reason why I was hoping for more was I know people have said their diff temp can reach 300* on the track. With only a 40* drop from this test means on the track the diff fluid might still reach 260*. I was hoping to go no more than 240* so the diff fluid wouldn't start to sheer off and hopefully the OEM VLSD could still do its job by keeping its temp within a good operating temp. I guess only time will tell now what happens. 4 months of winter to go!

 

 

Diff finished

 

 

Pics...

 

Pump and lines

 

image_zps93c1ffe6.jpg

 

image_zps8706a266.jpg

 

Cooler with no scoop yet

 

image_zpsc4f51eeb.jpg

 

Notched out arm incase diff flexes to much.

 

image_zps331bb1ff.jpg

 

Fill hole

 

image_zpsa3e133de.jpg

 

Scoop/cage getting painted. Extremely strong so wind can't move it at high speed.

 

image_zps969133ba.jpg

 

image_zps4fe57b7e.jpg

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

So it wasn't -7 outside today so I installed some used swift springs, SPL traction and camber arms. What a PITA! Normally lowering springs you can install with no spring collapser. But the swifts needed collapsed like 3" before I could start the nut. You ever try to compress a 10Kg spring with hand tools!! There must be a reason for this, talk about preload!

 

Anyways the initial drive was pretty shocking, but not after seeing camber numbers. Still body roll but you just barley touch the steering wheel and it whips into the other lane! On the track this thing is going to just dive into a corner like crazy! Initial lowering was...

 

 

BEFORE ---------------- AFTER

FL- 27.50" ------------- 26.625"= -0.875"

FR- 27.50" ------------- 26.50"= -1.0"

RL- 27.9375" ---------- 27.00"= -0.9375"

RR- 27.75" ------------ 26.9375= -0.8125"

 

I thought for used swifts the lowing would be more. I guess I'll have to wait and see if it settles more. My car is pretty light though so maybe that's why it sits higher. I checked camber too with my iPhone and toe with a tape measure and...

 

Before ------------------- After

FL/. -0.5 ---------------- -2.1

FR/. -0.8 ---------------- -1.6

RL/. -1.7 ---------------- -2.0

RR/. -1.2 ---------------- -2.1

Front Toe-

Rear Toe- in 0.125" ------------- Toe- in 0.59"

 

I may try again to align myself but its a pretty big PITA! If the traction arms can't mess with toe, ill make more toe plates but instead of drilling the hole center, I'll offset it to give more toe to get to zero.

Link to post
Share on other sites

First exhaust sounds.

 

Hope your speakers are better than my ipad because its way deeper and better in person. Hook it up to a tv.

 

Cold start

 

 

Hot start and rev to 3k, 4k, 5k.

 

 

Don't judge. My 110v free mig sucks azz! Doesn't penetrate then over penetrates and blows holes so they get thick at times.

 

image_zps4f21f941.jpg

 

image_zps3e274304.jpg

 

The header looked great. Better than I could have made. Metal looks thick and strong, tigs are all good with penetration, but I don't know what makes welds fail. With all the CNT TS failing I reenforced the j tube.

 

image_zpsb717c06a.jpg

Edited by synolimit
Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...