evilscorp Posted October 27, 2012 Posted October 27, 2012 Hi guys anyone with an AEM air/fuel gauge help me out. The unit does not seem to be getting power, have connected it up to the ground and power wires previously used for my in car screen (switched from 5amp fuse to 10amp as recomended,also tried 5amp original fuse), Tried reconnecting the screen to the cables and it powers up fine, Only thing I could see as being a problem are; Gauge, supplied wires (two power and ground wires become merged as one, could be issue at this point) or power signal not clear enough for gauge? Really gutted as I took ages with the wiring to the O2 sensor and expected to plug and play after! Quote
Keyser Posted October 27, 2012 Posted October 27, 2012 MIne are fine - I have heard of problems though with "dirty" power so mine are fed at the ECU but I think the problem is more to do with the output to the ECU rather than the gauge not coming on! - have you tested them accross a battery to be sure they are OK and working? Quote
evilscorp Posted October 27, 2012 Author Posted October 27, 2012 (edited) MIne are fine - I have heard of problems though with "dirty" power so mine are fed at the ECU but I think the problem is more to do with the output to the ECU rather than the gauge not coming on! - have you tested them accross a battery to be sure they are OK and working? Sorry I forgot to mention I am not using any of the outputs on the gauge so it really is just power and ground it should need? no I have not tried the the connections over a battery (I dont have a volt meter handy), could I attach the power and negative wire directly over the car battery without a fuse? Edited October 27, 2012 by evilscorp Quote
Keyser Posted October 27, 2012 Posted October 27, 2012 ..................... could I attach the power and negative wire directly over the car battery without a fuse? Yes just be careful, That's how I tested my AEM fuel gauge - I always test them first Quote
evilscorp Posted October 27, 2012 Author Posted October 27, 2012 cheers mate, will try it after I have helped strip some wall paper Quote
evilscorp Posted October 27, 2012 Author Posted October 27, 2012 No sign of life, tried it across my hyundi's battery and nothing happened. I presume the back light should at least come on? Quote
Keyser Posted October 27, 2012 Posted October 27, 2012 (edited) I would have thought so - and the display should read 0 - did you have the sensor plugged in when you tested? Don't think you should need it but to be 100% sure I would plug it all together and then try it - I assume you checked the wiring diagram??? Edited October 27, 2012 by Keyser Quote
Neilp Posted October 27, 2012 Posted October 27, 2012 As soon as the power up it should do a full check and set at 0. Where did you buy from mate? Quote
Neilp Posted October 27, 2012 Posted October 27, 2012 Also I was advised to be careful about having a clean supply to the gauges and advised not to install myself. Quote
evilscorp Posted October 27, 2012 Author Posted October 27, 2012 I would have thought so - and the display should read 0 - did you have the sensor plugged in when you tested? Don't think you should need it but to be 100% sure I would plug it all together and then try it - I assume you checked the wiring diagram??? It was all plugged in when I first tried it then removed the sensor and just tried the power wires over the hyundi battery = still nothing. Display showed 6pm position always. Bit worried now as have been reading you shouldn't leave the sensor in the exhaust when its not plugged in as it has a heat element in it to burn off crap. Means the car is immobile I have the boost gauge also, might try it across the hyundi battery. The wiring diagram mentions a blue wire (in my case it is grey) and there are brown and pink wires that are not mentioned?? Quote
evilscorp Posted October 27, 2012 Author Posted October 27, 2012 As soon as the power up it should do a full check and set at 0. Where did you buy from mate? Tarmac got me them, have given him an email and have also sent one to AEM. Quote
Keyser Posted October 27, 2012 Posted October 27, 2012 (edited) RED <Power> Connect to a switched 10-18 volt power source utilizing a 10A fuse. BLACK <Ground> Connect to a clean power ground. *WHITE <Analog Output> Connects to any auxiliary unit that accepts a 0-5 volt input. *BLUE <Serial Output> Connects to a RS-232 com port for hyper-terminal data logging So you don't need white white and blue - this is from the 4 pin that came with it - the other cable should have the plug that goes into the sensor 6 pin that should all be pre wired. Edited October 27, 2012 by Keyser Quote
evilscorp Posted October 27, 2012 Author Posted October 27, 2012 RED <Power> Connect to a switched 10-18 volt power source utilizing a 10A fuse. BLACK <Ground> Connect to a clean power ground. *WHITE <Analog Output> Connects to any auxiliary unit that accepts a 0-5 volt input. *BLUE <Serial Output> Connects to a RS-232 com port for hyper-terminal data logging So you don't need white white and blue - this is from the 4 pin that came with it - the other cable should have the plug that goes into the sensor 6 pin that should all be pre wired. its not a 4 pin its an 8 pin ??? Thats whyim confused as there is also pink and brown wires! 2red,2black,1white,1blue/grey,1pink,1brown! the two reds are joined into one about an inch after the connector same as black = must be power for the gauge and sensor all other wires are not in use. Quote
Keyser Posted October 27, 2012 Posted October 27, 2012 Sorry mate - different model MUHAAAAAAA Problem solved Try putting a 12v (5amp fuse supply) into the pink while the red is on 12v (5 amp fuse supply) its the ignition power should light up then To test - put black on the negative of the battery then pink and red on the positive. More info - RED - Connect BOTH RED wires to a constant 12 volt power source utilizing a 5A fuse. BLACK – Connect BOTH BLACK wires to a clean power ground. PINK - Connect to a switched 12 volt power source utilizing a 5A fuse. GREY - Connect to instrument lighting circuit supply voltage. *WHITE - Connect to Lambda + Input. *BROWN - Connect to Lambda – input. (Must be connected if Lambda + is used) *optional – only needed if using the available differential analog output Quote
evilscorp Posted October 27, 2012 Author Posted October 27, 2012 Sorry mate - different model MUHAAAAAAA Problem solved Try putting a 12v (5amp fuse supply) into the pink while the red is on 12v (5 amp fuse supply) its the ignition power should light up then To test - put black on the negative of the battery then pink and red on the positive. More info - RED - Connect BOTH RED wires to a constant 12 volt power source utilizing a 5A fuse. BLACK – Connect BOTH BLACK wires to a clean power ground. PINK - Connect to a switched 12 volt power source utilizing a 5A fuse. GREY - Connect to instrument lighting circuit supply voltage. *WHITE - Connect to Lambda + Input. *BROWN - Connect to Lambda – input. (Must be connected if Lambda + is used) *optional – only needed if using the available differential analog output Would have been nice if they had given me those instructions! Think I had the same ones you gave me originally. Where did you get these from? wonder why you need so many power wires?? going to have to hunt for another 5amp fuse and splice in the grey to something lol Quote
Keyser Posted October 27, 2012 Posted October 27, 2012 (edited) Can you pick the lights up from the stereo ???? Here you go buddy http://www.carid.com...instruction.pdf try that Let us know if it works. Edited October 27, 2012 by Keyser Quote
evilscorp Posted October 27, 2012 Author Posted October 27, 2012 Installation manual for 30-4100 but my box says 30-5130 tubes. Quote
Keyser Posted October 27, 2012 Posted October 27, 2012 Installation manual for 30-4100 but my box says 30-5130 tubes. Thats the right link I sent you then - should help Quote
evilscorp Posted October 27, 2012 Author Posted October 27, 2012 (edited) Can you pick the lights up from the stereo ???? Unfortunately its an aftermarket stereo so will have to borrow a multi meter to figure out which power wire is live only when the lights are on Also looks like I will have to run a live wire direct from the battery to the gauge as I presume the power wire I was using is ignition operated (used to be a camera screen) and I need a new 5amp fuse and carrier(where's the best place to get one as I would prefer to keep using car fuses.) Just reading the instructions now, looks like I wont need that cable all the way from the battery Edited October 27, 2012 by evilscorp Quote
evilscorp Posted October 27, 2012 Author Posted October 27, 2012 Nearly forgot, THANK YOU! Got two games of Ice hockey tomoz so if I get a chance I will hook it up without the illumination and see what happens. Quote
evilscorp Posted October 28, 2012 Author Posted October 28, 2012 It works fine , in future when the manual looks wrong I should question it rather than throw it down and say 'I am a man and manuals are for wimps' as most Ikea buyers do. Sitting at a healthy 14.5ish when idling, then decreases when you blip the throttle. Quote
Keyser Posted October 28, 2012 Posted October 28, 2012 Sweet - glad it works now I just finished putting a chair together from Ikea - there was a manual??? Sounds about right as well Quote
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