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Advise:CAI kits


GT4 Zed

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Anyone here with Injen or R tune CAI kits:thumbs:

i'm about to get one or the other but want to be sure there are no fitment issues ;) I know youhave to remove the NS water bottle and disable theheadlight washer with the AEM CAI kit.

I am anti short RAM though they look and sound nicer.

Please advise on which of the two(injen or R tune) sound better :p

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injen, AEM and nismo are all made in the same place... or at least the aem and nismo are as the nismo is just a rebranded AEM..

 

I would advise sticking a pop charger or apaxi type filter on the end or at least one with a velocity stack as they do work... Proven fact with dyno and temp readings.... Just a thought!

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injen, AEM and nismo are all made in the same place... or at least the aem and nismo are as the nismo is just a rebranded AEM..

 

I would advise sticking a pop charger or apaxi type filter on the end or at least one with a velocity stack as they do work... Proven fact with dyno and temp readings.... Just a thought!

 

Thanks bud :thumbs:

Does this mean with any of the three you would have to take off the NS water bottle? :scare: And if i understand you right : you are advising swapping the filter of any of the above CAI with that of the pop charger or Apexi or any other velosity stack one? :blush: would i need to modify anything?

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Not sure venturi effects work with a CAI or non short ram intakes. Any CAI you fit will need to have the washer bottle removed as they mount into that part of the bumper. IIRC the only one that has a cold air feed that doesnt need this is the K&N as it keeps the filter in an airbox in the engine bay and has a cold air scoop.

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Not sure venturi effects work with a CAI or non short ram intakes. Any CAI you fit will need to have the washer bottle removed as they mount into that part of the bumper. IIRC the only one that has a cold air feed that doesnt need this is the K&N as it keeps the filter in an airbox in the engine bay and has a cold air scoop.

 

:thumbdown: I really wanted to keep both wash bottles but i would have to lose it and connect the headlight washers in series.

Thanks for you input chris :thumbs:

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No mate, you wouldnt have to do anything to the washers, the passanger side one is just a reserve that keeps the drivers topped up. All you need to do is remove and cap / block the pipe. You will have more than enough fluid in the remaining one (Dont think any of the import owners put it down as a problem running out of fluid quicker!!

 

You wouldnt have to modify anthing to get a different filter on.. Lots of filters come with different fitting options. My pop charger is now held on via a silicone tube and 2 clips. The only thing you need is slot for the maf sensor that the long tube will have on it..

 

The venturi effect makes a difference on both short and long CAI's.. I have seen the effects on the dyno both on the results and the info off the readout in my car... I havnt taken it on the track though so I cant give any info on that.. Perhaps someone that has used it extensivly for track work can comment!

 

After all you want to jam as much cold air as possible into the longer tube and keep it flowing, the velocity stack will help that... Esp if your gonna be running it on track and it will be getting hot... As you know, heat rises so the filter will be in the best place furthest from this... problem is though that the cai tube is in the warmest!! You may find some gains are to be had by heatwrapping the CAI tube esp if your talking serious temps.. also if your thinking of getting manifolds then heat wrap those too to decrease heat rising to the tube...

 

If you want to go all out for real cold air in the tube, have a look at some of the cryogenic systems!! Lots of lovely cold dense air in those ones ;)

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No mate, you wouldnt have to do anything to the washers, the passanger side one is just a reserve that keeps the drivers topped up. All you need to do is remove and cap / block the pipe. You will have more than enough fluid in the remaining one (Dont think any of the import owners put it down as a problem running out of fluid quicker!!

 

You wouldnt have to modify anthing to get a different filter on.. Lots of filters come with different fitting options. My pop charger is now held on via a silicone tube and 2 clips. The only thing you need is slot for the maf sensor that the long tube will have on it..

 

The venturi effect makes a difference on both short and long CAI's.. I have seen the effects on the dyno both on the results and the info off the readout in my car... I havnt taken it on the track though so I cant give any info on that.. Perhaps someone that has used it extensivly for track work can comment!

 

After all you want to jam as much cold air as possible into the longer tube and keep it flowing, the velocity stack will help that... Esp if your gonna be running it on track and it will be getting hot... As you know, heat rises so the filter will be in the best place furthest from this... problem is though that the cai tube is in the warmest!! You may find some gains are to be had by heatwrapping the CAI tube esp if your talking serious temps.. also if your thinking of getting manifolds then heat wrap those too to decrease heat rising to the tube...

 

If you want to go all out for real cold air in the tube, have a look at some of the cryogenic systems!! Lots of lovely cold dense air in those ones ;)

 

Just saw your reply only now and its made my night :thumbs:

Thats why the OEM box is better because the plastic insulates the charge air to.

i will heat wrap both zed tube and manifold as the engine bay aesthetic is not my aim :blush:

The cryo systems will cost way too much wonga for some measly BHP return in NA tune :lol::lol:

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The cryo systems will cost way too much wonga for some measly BHP return in NA tune :lol::lol:

I vote for Mark to give it a go and report back the results :teeth: TBH once you are moving the diffence in the different intakes isnt that much. Static and dyno testing arent real life, they dont have as much airflow as the car gets when really moving. I see this every time it gets warm as on the dyno my popcharger has major heat soak but once moving on the open road the temps drop right down again.

 

Anyway, we digress. I think both the aforementioned intakes are pretty much the same so get the one that looks the nicest or is the cheapest :thumbs:

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  • 1 month later...
No mate, you wouldnt have to do anything to the washers, the passanger side one is just a reserve that keeps the drivers topped up. All you need to do is remove and cap / block the pipe. You will have more than enough fluid in the remaining one (Dont think any of the import owners put it down as a problem running out of fluid quicker!!

 

Is this true for a UK spec car??? I have a NISMO CAI that the previous owner fitted in a short pipe form, and handed over a box of bits to me when I bought the car, if it really is possible to just diconnect the passenger bottle and block the pipe this would be a perfect solution :thumbs:

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No mate, you wouldnt have to do anything to the washers, the passanger side one is just a reserve that keeps the drivers topped up. All you need to do is remove and cap / block the pipe. You will have more than enough fluid in the remaining one (Dont think any of the import owners put it down as a problem running out of fluid quicker!!

 

Is this true for a UK spec car??? I have a NISMO CAI that the previous owner fitted in a short pipe form, and handed over a box of bits to me when I bought the car, if it really is possible to just diconnect the passenger bottle and block the pipe this would be a perfect solution :thumbs:

 

Yep have fitted one to a UK car and all worked fine! Jack car up, wheel and wheel arch liner off and fit the extra tubes. Job done!

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