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Help understanding corrosion


ZedHd

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Hi all,

 

Any advice on these MOT advisories?
 

“Corrosion on sill to floor joint and sill covers fitted”

 

And

 

“Corrosion on bracing struts at rear floor pan”

 

is there anything I can DIY to treat/prevent? And where should I be looking to assess the level of corrosion?

 

Only just obatined the vehicle, and just had soft top, clutch, flywheel, discs, pads and exhaust done.

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Take it this wasn’t from an MOT you’ve had done?

 

Easy answer is that unless you are the kind of guy who can cut and weld bits out to fix yourself, take it to the local garage and get them to point it out to you. Might only need a wire brush and a bit of slap on it, or might need the aforementioned cut and weld job. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

It rather depends on how bad the corrosion is. If you're lucky (or catch it quick enough) the moisture will have got under the paint rusting the metal underneath, but it will only be surface rust with no real detriment to the metal.

 

If that's the case you can strip the paint and surface rust off the affected areas (emery flap wheel in drill works well). If the metal looks OK with no holes or deep pitting then you can treat any residual surface rust with a rust stabiliser and then paint. I'd recommend using etch primer.

 

If you do find any holes or deep pits that are about to become holes (or do become holes when you poke them with a screwdriver) then it's a welding job.

 

You can't tell just how bad things really are until you get the paint off, and it you're lucky it might not be as bad as it looks. I recently repaired the rear wheel arch on a Range Rover that was bubbling up so badly I was fully expecting to end up with a hole, but the metal was actually totally solid. Hopefully you'll find the same and only need a paint repair.

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