calebkeyss Posted January 10 Share Posted January 10 Ever since i bought my Z i’ve noticed some low rpm’s at idle (400, even 350 sometimes) this happens when i’ve warmed up the engine a little bit and and i come to a stop and put it in neutral and then rpm will drop. when I put it in neutral and the rpm’s drop it will do 1 of 2 things. 1.) It will just drop to below 500 and stay there or 2.) it will drop really low (sub 300) and then bounce up to sub 500 the most concerning part of this is the fact that i’ve had it die on me while driving because if i’m really hogging on it and then have to suddenly stop and put it in neutral it will drop so low that it dies. Later update- new maf, relearn, nothing changed When i originally wrote this up I had no codes but now I have P1238 (idk what this one is besides some upstream o2 sensor alerting a lean A/F ratio) And I also have a P1167 (heated oxygen sensor 2 bank 2, which is the passenger side i think) So I could have an issue with the test pipes and o2 nonsense but im gonna start off cleaning TB and relearning and ill see from there. I am already running defoulers with my o2 sensors and my test pipes so idk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davey_83 Posted January 10 Share Posted January 10 Be sure to carry out all 3 resets, idle control valve, pedal position and throttle body. The last one NEEDS to be carried out on a warm engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calebkeyss Posted January 11 Author Share Posted January 11 Ok thanks im gonna try it this wknd and ill post the results Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calebkeyss Posted January 14 Author Share Posted January 14 On 10/01/2024 at 16:49, davey_83 said: Be sure to carry out all 3 resets, idle control valve, pedal position and throttle body. The last one NEEDS to be carried out on a warm engine. davey_83, so i just finished cleaning up my EXTREMELY dirty throttle body, i reinstalled it put everything back into place, warmed up engine came home and preformed all resets aaaaaaaaaand nothing changed. still low idle right around 440-450, so idk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davey_83 Posted January 15 Share Posted January 15 Having test pipes and by the sounds of it the ECU hasn't been mapped you will even after clearing get after a while the P1167 fault codes and possibly others. This however won't affect the idle if everything else is working correctly. First action complete and sadly didn't help. P1238 is injection malfunction. Could be a failing fuel pump. Probably best to get it booked in with a local garage to diagnose properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ekona Posted January 15 Share Posted January 15 You say new MAF, OEM one? Could also be something as simple as an air leak post MAF too, worth checking that out as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calebkeyss Posted January 16 Author Share Posted January 16 7 hours ago, Ekona said: You say new MAF, OEM one? Could also be something as simple as an air leak post MAF too, worth checking that out as well. Not oem but from a trusted brand, it didn’t change anything and also after I cleaned the throttle body I was very thorough putting the intake back together to make sure there’s no leaks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ekona Posted January 16 Share Posted January 16 Changing the MAF may not have done anything, I would always go OEM if you think it might be the issue as non-OEM MAFs are notoriously unreliable (trusted brand or not). Been there, done that! See if someone local has one you can swap over quickly to test? I’d still go back with a can of brake cleaner and run it over all the joints to confirm there’s no leak, can’t hurt and it’s an easy one to rule out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calebkeyss Posted January 16 Author Share Posted January 16 5 hours ago, Ekona said: Changing the MAF may not have done anything, I would always go OEM if you think it might be the issue as non-OEM MAFs are notoriously unreliable (trusted brand or not). Been there, done that! See if someone local has one you can swap over quickly to test? I’d still go back with a can of brake cleaner and run it over all the joints to confirm there’s no leak, can’t hurt and it’s an easy one to rule out. Ok i will check for leaks but i don’t know of anyone who has the same MAF Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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