SteveW

Sorted - PrimoPDF to the rescue, had to downscale the pics a fair bit though.

I've written a guide on how to fix your electric windows and converted it to a PDF but for some reason it won't upload . . . .

Any ideas? Is it too big? The file size is 9.63MB

If it is too big how can I post it?

Thanks

Definately sounds like a problem with the motor to me, i.e. it just needs dismantling and cleaning.

Quick Guide (doing from my memory so may be some small errors)

1)Take off the door card

2)Connect the window switches back up (you will neeed to be able to move the window to remove the glass)

3)On the metal panel behind the door card there are three very large pieces of material over three big holes (one at the front two at the back about halfway down the door) remove these three pieces of material

4)Lower the window until you can see a bolt in one of these holes, remove bolt.

5)Repeat process for remaining bolts (3 bolts total), glass will now be sitting on brackets.

6)Carefully remove the glass by lifting it upwards and then sliding backwards when back edge clears doorseal

7)Set glass aside carefully and clean the scum off it (optional)

8)Disconnect window switches and carefully pull wiring looms from door panel

9)Remove all bolts holding internal metal panel to door frame (there are about 12- 15 I think) only the bolts around the edge do not remove the gold coloured bolts

10)Carefully remove the whole silver panel (the entire window mechanism is attached to this)

11)Now that you have removed the window mechanism unbolt the motor assembly from the middle of the door (three bolts)

12)remove three bolts around edge of motor/winder mechanism (not sure if these are on the front or back)

13)Pull the two pieces apart

14)Unhook grommet from silver panel and pull cabel through

15)Unscrew the three screws on top of the motor (be careful they are made fo monkey metal and if you round these off its gonna be hard)

16)Pull goldy coloured portion of motor away from rest (its magnetised so may feel a bit stuck)

17)Depending on which part the motor shaft has stuck to you may need to pull the motor shaft out separatley, mine came out magnetised to the housing)

18)Using lint free cloth and contact cleaner carefully clean the copper contacts half way down the motor shaft they are about 12-15mm tall and will be covered in carbon)

19)Carefully clean the brushes in the motor housings (made of black carbon)

20)Carefully reassemble the motor and attach back to the window regulator assembly

21)Reassemble door but do not fit door card, assembly is the reverse of removal

22)Connect window switches and wind window up one inch from top

23)Check alignment to car body and door (reallign by adujusting the three bolts holding the glass in position, do not overtighten these bolts!!!!)

24)When happy with glass positioning and allignment perform motor reset procedure

25) Re-fit door card

26)Window should now be happy and working

There is another set of steps involving the brushes but this needs a soldering iron and more motor disassembly hopefully just cleaning the motor will fix your issue. I didn't get chance to do a full guide this weekend but I'll try this week or weekend.

Godo luck

Sounds like you are having the same issue I had a few weeks ago! To get it working again instead of smacking the door close the door and push the window down as though you were lowering it by hand. Its not hard to move, it should move about an inch.

When you have done this hold the switch to raise the window to the top, it worked for me.

I had to do this everytime I lowered the window before it would go back up.

When you are parking do it with the door open so the window will fully wind up when you shut the door.

I have fixed mine of this problem, it cost me £3 for some electrical contact cleaner and about 90 minutes of my time. I'm intending to write a guide on how to fix it, hopefully get a chance on saturday after I have finsihed fiddling with my brakes.

I fitted my Popcharger the other night and its quality.

The sound the car now makes from 4000 rpm to 6500 rpm is the sound of dreams.

I have however noticed a side effect, hanging out in dark, dingy places with the windows down . . . . . tunnels are my new best friends

Don't know if anyone has seen these before, I know there are a few procedures knocking around in other threads but this is straight off the EBC website:

In Street use situations …

Bedding in when the red EBC surface coating (marked on the pads as Brake In) is applied.

Best procedure is to drive gently avoiding harsh braking unless in an emergency for first 100 miles. In the second 100 miles (up to 200) you can use gently increasing brake pressures when using the brakes.

Only after 200 miles urban driving (not 200 miles on a freeway where brakes are almost unused) should you attempt to apply heavy load and heat to the brakes. To do this final bedding on a QUIET ROAD in safe traffic apply the brakes and slow from 60 to 10 MPH five times in a row. Then drive slowly for a few minutes if safe to do so to allow the brakes to cool. Try to avoid coming to a rest whilst the brakes are heated.

A smell may be noticed from the warm brakes, this is normal. Repeat this procedure a second time after the brakes have TOTALLY cooled down. EBC pads get better with miles. Even after this bed in procedure it can take up to 1500 miles before the pads are at their best. In the meantime the pads will be good and safe but true potential not realised. EBC makes performance pads that last, they do not bed in within 5 minutes driving. Noises will be more likely during the first 1000-1500 miles use whilst this chemical bedding takes place.

NEVER attempt to sand or scotchbrite brake pads to assist it bedding in or noise reduction,this will only make things worse by taking the pads "Off-Flat" and require hundreds of miles driving to seat them again during which time the brakes will feel very dull. The only way to seat pads is against the rotor they will be used on and by following our bedding recommendation.

Bedding in for trackday or race use …

We remind you there is NO WARRANTY on any EBC product for race use due to the very varying conditions that can be seen. However, care bedding pads in and monitoring wear will get the best from our products.

Most EBC pads including Yellow range pads now have the brake in coating. If possible and using a street based car, fit the pads before the race use and bed in as above for street use. Try to get 200-300 miles urban driving on the pads before racing them. If this is NOT possible and you fit at the track bed like this.

Drive two laps steadily applying the brakes every few seconds and then coast for a full lap without any unnecessary braking to allow pads and rotors to cool down. Drive a third lap applying the brakes slightly harder each time and again drive a cooldown lap. Do NOT pull up and park the car with the brakes red hot, try to let them cool as much as possible before coming to a rest. It is also important to understand that the pads must be geometrically matched to the rotor (flat and parallel) before they will bed in chemically. If you do the above bed in and get violent fade first use you MUST repeat the bedding procedure. We get lots of new customers calling in saying my brakes have faded and when they send a digital the pad is only touching on 70-80% of its surface area. Fade early in a pads life is almost a good thing. It is called GREEN fade and will disappear so if you suffer Green fade (you will notice this by smell), you are on the right path and this is not a negative. If you are getting fade after 20 laps and the pads are part worn, then something else needs looking into such as material choice, bleeding of the system, driving style etc …

Just wondering if anyone knew what the OEM brake pads were made out of?

i.e. metallic/non-mettalic compound / asbestos / Kevlar etc

Cheers

Steve

Thats what I was leaning, thanks nce again,

Aologies for posting in wrong section was just filthy and had mrs shouting at me to get off comp

Thank you

Should I put a small amount of copper grease between the disk and hub to prevent possible seizure?

I've just finished cleaning the hubs all up.

It doesn'y say to do it in Nissan manual but.......

Thank you

Steve

Thanks mate

Just a quick one really, I'm in the process of fitting my new discs and pads to the back of my car (turbogrooves and yellowstuffs) and I'm just wondering if I should threadlock the caliper bolts when I put it all back together?

there seemed to be some threadlock on them when I took them apart but can't be 100% could have just been other rubbish.

If I should threadlock them will Loctite 648 be ok? Strictly speaking its for gears on motor shafts etc but I have some lying around from other jobs?

Cheers

Steve

nice one

 

 

guides are always appreciated

i noticed the motor on my driver window is occasionally sticking in the down position, quick tap on the bottom of the door card usually sort it, mite have to look into it a bit more tho, hope some-one can find a guide or somthing

No worries as soon as I have all the parts and checked it works I'll do a guide

Sorted, did a bit of playing and managed it.

I'll post up a guide when I get the new bushes and everything, and if it works of course

Now time for

I've just spent the morning dismantling my drivers electric window because its started running slow again.

Last time I pulled it all apart and gave it a clean and it was all good again.

However this time I think I'm gonna try and do a better job and replace the brushes in the motor because when I took the motor apart the brushes were very marginal to being in contact with the rotor contacts. I'm guessing this is why it was running slow.

Anyways now I'm stuck the motor has a 'white' insert which houses the brushes (see pic)

I've been trying to get it out so I can measure the brushes and get some new ones or re-tension the springs to force the existing brush into contact.

Please ignore the amount the bushes are protruding I did this trying to get the brush housing out.

Anyone have any idea how this comes out, I don't wanna force it and break the thing.

Cheers

Right thank you for all the information, I think I'm going to go for the turbo grooves and the yellowstuffs then maybe in the future look at some two piece efforts but that will be a fair way into the future.

Cheers once again the world of zed brakes is now clear

Ar you going on the track?

 

I have no complaint with the EBC turbo grooved discs and are far better than OEM. Greekman is very heavy on his brakes.

 

Thats the plan for next year, hoping to do a few trackdays. So you have had yours on trackdays and they are fine?

 

I'm generally not heavy on the brakes, silky smooth

Right I'm really confused now then.

If the EBC stuff is no good for even a couple of track days and in greekman's experience neither are the DBA's (too expensive anyway)

What are the options? Are the stock discs OK for track?

Don't they weart out very quickly with the higher friction coefficient pads? The rears on mine are stockies at the moment and were a wee bit warped/rippled when I first bought the car.

Are there any more options apart from EBC, DBA and stock? I've had a look on the net and can't find anything......

There is no way I can afford a big disc conversion.

Cheers

Sadly the time has come for the OEM stuff to go and aftermarket stuff to grace the zed.

Sadly because I am broke but when brakes is needed brakes is needed.

I'm getting full discs and pads all round - been meaning to do it for ages.

I'm planning on doing one or two track days next year but can't decided which discs to go for.

EBC Turbogroove or EBC Ultimax.

I'm going for yellow stuff pads.

I do like the DBA disks but really can't afford the £350 they cost per pair.

Had a look on EBC website and it appears that the turbogrroves are a better disc for light track day use, or am I mis-reading things.

Many thanks in advance,

its not thats bad tbh, its the rattle which is annoying.. was wondering if it could be anything to do with the dm flywheel?

Mine makes a similar noise I'm guessing and was wondering if it was the DM flywheel on the way out. Wouldn't say it does it at idle tho, just low speed on gear changes.

1. Woody

2. Greekman

3. Nixy

4. Markie

5. Lincolnbaggie

6. Helimeddaz

7. Lexx +1 (Provisional)

8. Andy + Saz

9. Vale

10. R35LEE + 3

11. Markie

12. SteveW (provisional)

I can get my 160 Suprateam in no trouble at all.

Just give it a wangle.

Haha

Wakefield for me too.

There is a silver and 2 black zeds that go to my gym (total fitness) see them all the time:

One black 07 plate

One black (private plate VX XXE)

One blade 06

Excellent Thanks!!!

Hi,

Just a quick question about oil delay, whats the typical time it takes for your oil pressure light to go out from a cold start?

Mine generally takes about one second using fully synth Millers XFS 5W-40.

Using a semi-synth 5W-30 it took about 2 seconds and sounded rough

Cheers

I just bought an oil filter and was concerned cos it says Almera 2000> on the box. The guy in the shop said its the right one but thought best to check on here and happily it is

I know they use oil filters on a vast number of engines to save cost but the 350Z is really an Almera in disguise!!!!