SteveW

These are still available if anyone is interested.

All boxed up and ready to go.

Thanks

Steve

Hi Zazur, the disk causing the problem on mine is running out a long way its clearly visible to the naked eye

However the issue is quite a lot to do with the runout of the hub I have found. After I checked my discs I took them off and got the flatness checked where I work. The discs are all within 0.035mm except for the passenger side rear on its own it is out of spec but only out by 0.1mm.

The hub run out however (at approximately half the diameter of the disk) is 0.15 thus at the outer edge of the disk this is causing the disk to run out by 0.30mm (assuming the disk was perfectly flat) however I know thats out by 0.1mm which gives a total runout of approximately 0.4mm.

Since taking the original measuremnets I posted I have rotated the disk to its 'best' position and run out is down to 0.36mm way out of spec but I think with mine the biggest issue is the hub run out not the disc itself.

Have you checked your hub runouts this could also be contributing to vibrations.

I'll let you know how I get on after my skimming, I've found a local guy who ill skim the turbogrooves.

Well car got serviced but discs didn't get skimmed, garage were unwilling to do them because they are drilled and grooved and were concerned they would damage the machine.

Bloody main dealers need a kicking!#

Trying to locate somewhere else tomorrow!

I had the same problem with my iphone! was so confused when it wouldnt work but my ipod would, i jsut got over it and used my ipod all the time, still a bugger though!

thankfully its just not me, getting the resistors tomo so will feedback how I get on.

Well I bought myself a clock and base and checked my disc runouts, all was well until I got to the nearside rear . . .

Nearside front = 0.03 mm

Offside front = 0.05 mm

Oddside rear = 0.08 mm

Nearside rear = 0.45 mm!!!!!!!!!!!

Car is off in Thursday for P2 service and Procut skimming see how I get on. I'll post up runouts afterwards, only getting rears done because fronts are in.

Excellent glad to hear its helping out the masses

Hi Guys... this is my first post and I'll introduce myself later (thinking seriously about getting a 350).. anyway I was browsing around and noticed this.

 

I think the problem you are having with the iPhone is that it isn't detecting enough impedance on the headphone port so assumes that nothing is connected. Try adding a resistor (~ 32 Ohm) to each channel. ... I havn't done analogue electronics for a while but I think this should work

 

You can probably get the resistors from Maplin for 10p each

Hi mate thanks very much I'll give that a go and see if it works, hope it does work I keep having a play and don't get nowhere.

Cheers

Hi mate Im interested in the clear reflectors

you have PM

Thanks mate, at least I now know its possible.

I'll keep investigating

Cheers

Steve

Quick one, has anyone managed to get an IPhone to work with a Ghetto MP3 mod?

I have got everything else to work with mine, MP3 player other phones etc but neither my iphone or any of my mates will work with it.

You connect the lead and the Iphone does not recognise it is connected to anything so plays the music from its internal speaker.

Really can't figure it out.

The Iphone worked with the same cable attached to my home amp no problems attached to the bose no chance.

If you start the ipod function playing then slowly insert the cable you can get sound to come through the car speakers for a few seconds but then the Iphone stops the music playing..... Plug it in fully before you start and it just plays through the internal phone speaker???

Realy confused. . . . any help appreciated.

Cheers

Steve

I've been told if you take your keys and log book. To the Nissan garage provided they are still the standard ones they can order you the right key. My weekend has just been topped off by realising I've lost mine gonna call Nissan tomorrow. To find out what's what. I think I left it on the wheel nut last week after putting the wheels back on. WHOOPS And now some magpie has probably got it as a nest ornament!

First the girlfriend called time on us, then Wakefield got knocked out of challenge cup and now have no wheel nut key! What a truly awesome weekend!

GT4 Zed I think you are right I've measured the hub run out and it is out of spec.

At the end of the day the wheel bearings amd hub wear which seems to be the root cause.

I had one of my disks checked on the CMM at work for flatness and it is less than 50 microns out of flat which if mounted to a brand new car would have no problems. The problem for me seems to be caused because my hub runs out by 150 microns, three times the limit for the assmebly with the disk and thus the root cause of the vibrations.

A pro-cut skim should fix the problem, I'll let everyone know how I get on when sorted.

Thanks

Steve

Thanks for your reply mate much appreciated.

Right I have solved my issue!!!!!

Problem was a few things:

1st and major problem was a small bit of solder ad dripped and was connecting two different parts of the tape deck board so I did have a short circuit but not from the cable was from elsewhere.

2nd and major problem was that the cable I have used is quite thick and when it was wedged between the HU base panel and tape unit it was stopping the tape from turning hence the 'error' message. Everyone be aware of this I just re-routed the cable and sandwiched it somewhere else to stop it getting pulled.

3rd and finally the IPhone is FAR too clever for its own good. Any other MP 3 player (I tried 2) work with the ghetto mod I have done however the iphone somehow knows its connected to the ghetto mod and decides it doesn't want to recognise there is anything plugged into the headphone port!!! So plays the music through its internal speaker. When my IPhone is connected to the hifi downstairs and the amp in my bedroom with the exact same cable that is now in the car it works fine! But not with the Ghetto mod. I have no idea why this is.....

Has anyone got an IPhone working with theGhetto mod???

Thanks

Steve

Just seen your post. Yes it was me who was down at RS on saturday it was good to meet you and have a chat about the Zed world.

Those are some good gains you've got there I hope I get something similar when funds allow this to be done. This mod is definately on my list and with the increased fuel economy maybe I can justify it sooner than I first thought.

I can recommend RS tuning as well Paul is sound and always willing to discuss things with you in detail if you have any questions. The reason I was there on saturday was not for me but for my mate who has an MR2 Turbo. We were there to find out his BHP after a few mods. Made 406BHP at the flywheel it feels awesome!

Once again goo dto meet you mate.

Thanks Steve

@ Steve--was that you I was speaking to at RS on saturday

Hi Mic,

yes it was me down at RS on saturday, how did you go in the end?

Wish I could have stayed around but had prior arrangements.

Good to meet you hope it all went well and the drive back wasn't too stressful, nice plate by the way

I've bought a clock to actually check the runout properly instead of using feeler gauges and the caliper, it was taking ages!

But based on feeler gauge measurements its gonna be time to go to a procut centre.

Thanks

Steve

Hi Guys,

Right I've been trying to do this mod for the last couple of days and I just can't get it to work.

Basically I've followed Alex's excellent guide and got my cable soldered in, I tried it the first night and I couldn't get any sound to play.

So tonight I removed the cable checked it works with my home amp which it does just to verify I didn't have a fubbared cable.

So soldered back onto HU and checked continuity between channels with a multimeter.

Set my multimeter to continuity mode and it shows a large one on the left of the display when no continuity is present and reduces to 0 for a 'perfect' connection.

When the unit is in the car with the ignition off or on the table I get good connections between left channel on 3.5mm jack and left channel on tape deck board and no continiuty to other channels, same for earth and right channels. When checking against the correct channels i.e. left to left, ground to ground etc I get continuity readouts of 003/002. However when I turn on the ignition and check across channels I get a continuity readout of 548 left to earth or right to earth. I also get 548 if I check the left or right channels to the HU metal case. The HU case when checked against the earth shows a continuity of 003,

Is this correct? I don't think I should be seeing any continuity between the left channel or right channel and the earth and I don't think the case should be an earth should it?

Also tonight when I tried it and put the empty tape into the tape deck the unit played forwards for a few seconds then back then ejected the tape and said 'error' on the display.

Tomorrow I'm gonna remove the cable and try the headunit on its own I hope it all works OK

Whilst the HU has been out I've done the fix for the left channel on the CD player so hope I haven't knakered anything or put it together wrong . ..

Hope this all makes sense, I think I've got a short circuit somewhere . . . .

Going down,

£40 delivered

Thanks

Did this myself viewtopic.php?f=53&t=35001

Wow that looks awesome!!!

Might have to have a go at that!

Thank you

Roughly how much does the carbon fibre wrapping cost or is it something I can do myself?

I was thinking matt effect paint too if I went that route could any of you chaps be gentlemen and post up a couple of pics so can see the effects of the various routes?

Many thanks in advance

Steve

Hi There,

I'm considering painting the centre console( gear surround and stereo surround etc) inside the car because of a number of scratches and about a two inch diameter patch wehre the black colour has gone completely and its white???

I remeber seeing a post where someone had done it in the past but can't seem to locate it. Does anyone have any tips how I should go about this? I'm just not really sure how to start because of the 'bobble' effect coating . . . Should I rub it down smooth or paint straight over with a high lift primer then paint?

If I mess it up I can't really make it any worse it look stupid.

Thanks very much

Steve

Well I'm rather not impressed today I have discovered today at least one of my 2500 mile old turbogrooves is causing brake judder and virbration.

I was going down the motorway at about 70 and a car pulled out in front of me not really close requiring mega braking but close enough to warrant moderate braking. The entire car started shaking like mad it felt like from the back end after a couple more brake trials.

So back home and back wheel off brake disc on passenger side has developed about 300 microns of run out

Explains the shuddering under braking from highish speed, buggared my track day plans ....... Can't feel any vibrations under light braking at speeds under 50. The run out specs for the Brembos are 0.05mm for the front and 0.07mm. I'm gonna check all the discs and hubs as soon as possible but not impresseed haven't done any hard braking since I fitted them 2500 miles ago

Hmmm I just read this post http://www.350z-uk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=32481 and think I need to look into getting this done first!

I'll feedback results when sorted!

Thanks steve

OK mate nice one will do. I'm currently trying to find a box long enough that they willfit in then I'll get back to you, cheers.

Hi mate, I'm located up north in Yorkshire near Junction 38 of the M1.

I need to check out how much postage is cos I'm guessing you wouldn't want to collect seen as you are located in Essex, its a fair old treck.

Thanks

Steve

Had these knocking around for a while since I changed to the LED ones.

The lights are in excellent condition and come with bulbs.

Really have no idea what they are worth but found a few posts by searching so say £40 plus delivery?

I don't know how much delivery would be at present would have to box them up and weigh them in.

Any interest?

Cheers

SteveW

I've written a guide on how to fix the Zed electric windows.

Please find attached, feedback welcomed.

Window Guide.pdf