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Adam@Z1auto.com

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Posts posted by Adam@Z1auto.com

  1. You're the engineer with a teaching degree....figure it out!

     

    Very helpful comment. :thumbs:

     

     

    Well Adam@Z1 sells them so it might be worth asking him.

    Aye, but Adams has a real purpose - unlike most of the others out there ;)

     

     

    http://z1auto.com/prodmore.asp?model=35 ... rodid=2413

    Hope he doesnt mind me nabbing the piccy

     

    aam20vac.jpg

    The AAM Spec. Throttle Body Spacer is a great addition to any upgraded 350Z or G35. Each AAM Spec. Throttle Body Spacer comes pre-tapped with three vacuum ports. This saves both time and money when running vacuum lines (no need to tap the factory intake plenum with this spacer). Because you have more vacuum ports available you can run components seperately (ie. map sensor, boost gauge, fuel pressure regulator, boost controller, etc.) which improves both their performance and reliability. This will fit any VQ35DE engine (350Z, G35, Maxima, Altima).

     

    good eye :)

     

    a throttle body spacer is king in the land of the useless mods, unless its akin to the one we offer

  2. when you buy anything for the car its a toss up between cost and quality/performance. if its merely a commuting car, judgiung from the info, i dont think id bother with these links. however also judging by this info if you intend to push the car OR you like having a top notch piece of kit OR you have other mods that require them then these links are for you. i dont see anything more complicated than that.

     

    could not agree more

  3. So what your saying is, that people who have perfectly good drop links should go out and buy something you both sell? ok... :lol:

     

    :shrug: obviously that is not what I am saying, as you quoted below

     

    Adam you finally get my point :thumbs: However at a similar cost to OEM, im not so sure.

    Obviously if the stock links are fine, you could well go on using them. My post is only with respect to when they do go bad, there are ways to solve the issue permenantly, at a similar cost to OEM, with many added benefits.

     

    look up the cost of new OEM endlink set and compare it to the Powergrid

     

    From Alex:

     

    Retail price from Nissan for OEM Drop Links:

     

    Front: £37.81 each including vat.

     

    Rear £32.30 each including vat

     

    that makes a set ~$235($US)...for something that is prone towards wearing. Cheaper, yes. But a better deal? In the eye of the beholder I guess - the better deal is not always dictated by price.

  4. Adam - You seem to be bigging up Powergrids product again? I'll repeat what i said before "Im not saying the Powergrid ones are bad, in fact they look very good."

    I dont disagree with the majority of what you said, most of it your just stating facts. And im not trying to say the Powergrid links are bad as they actually look good and would be an improvement over OEM. (i'll check your link when i get time) i think their a very good alternative choice. With regards to articulation you'll only need more if its being put under a load that the oem droplink wasnt designed for. The oem bar wont be limited by the oem droplinks unless another suspension component has been changed (i.e. roll bar). And therefore my statement in which you disagreed with

    ""My advice would be not to go changing your drop links unless you've thought about the use it gets and inspected the condition of your current one."" Still stands. Why replace the droplink when for 60k miles its been fine and still is?

     

     

    As regards to the following statement:

    Sure, you can buy the OEM ones 3 or 4 times, but to what end? When I have the time to work on my car, and when I spend any amount of money on it I strictly want the final solution. I am not interested in bandaids that I know will fail at some point. For some, that might work fine, it is all up to the end user. Time is valuable, and while I love my car, I've got other priorities in my life too - so I'd rather spend a bit more and have one less part to worry about. If all you do is normal commuting, etc, then stock everything should last for a long time - there really is little need to mod any aspect of the car for that. In addition to normal day to day use, my weekends consist of aggressive street use, and previously, track days, so I needed something that would support all those uses and not give up the ghost.

     

    Im not sure if your agreeing with my point or not :lol:

    However not everyone's like you. You've modified yours quite extensiveley and take it on track, so again this goes back to my point which you disagreed with in that you need to consider the use it gets and inspect the condition of your current one.

    If your saying that time is valuable which im sure everyones is, why go changing a perfectly good droplink for another perfectly good droplink?

     

    Another question is. If my suspension is standard, i have a nice set of lightweight wheels and a popcharger, i use my car on the motorway to work and back with the occasion blast down the country road. What benefit will i have replacing a good healthy droplink for a powergrid one? What benefits will i get that will outweight my valuable time and lighter pocket?

     

    Well, my disagreement stems from your assertion that stock links are somehow adequete for stock bars, or even a lowered car. While they should be, our experience is, they are not. Much in the same way that the stock exhaust is prone to rusting at the rear section, and how the interior plastic is prone to scratching. My opinion, from years spent around these cars (not just my own) is they are prone to failure, even on completely stock cars. There are very few faults with these cars IMHO - but the front bushings, and endlinks are one of those niggling areas that need attention. If I was writing a buyers guide for a 350Z, it would be at the top of the list of things that are common issues. As the cars get older, we keep seeing these same issues rear their ugly head time and time again. My own car has not even done 55k miles yet, and is a 2004, and each of these areas has gone bad, and in the case of the endlinks, more than once. Yes, I do track days with it, but the majority of the miles is street driving. On my own car, as mentioned, I bent one rear stock link once (passenger side rear - no slicks, not even r compounds, and my car has never hit any stationary object), and then the replacements began making noise within a few months time..all before I ever swapped to my Cusco sways. The stock endlink is a known issue on these cars when they are put through their paces, even with standard swaybars.

     

    Obviously if the stock links are fine, you could well go on using them. My post is only with respect to when they do go bad, there are ways to solve the issue permenantly, at a similar cost to OEM, with many added benefits.

  5. that's actually not the case at all ;)

     

    on my OEM swaybars, I bent a stock endlink while at a track day. Replaced it, and the corresponding side, with new OEM ones. Within 6 months, they were making noise, because the stock "stud" has minimal amounts of articulation to them. I changed them out for aftermarket units, and did new sways (the Whitelines, ironically). Within a few months, those aftermarket ones were making noise too, because they were an open bearing design. That is when we began development work on our own. During that process, we came across the Powergrid ones, and became their exclusive distributor for North America for the 350Z. They have now been on my car for about 2 years, and zero issues. There are countless examples on the US boards about people with nearly stock suspension having issues with stock endlinks as well...it's just one of those parts that doesn't last, much like the inner control arm bushings. Once they were replaced with our Powergrid ones, that was the last time they had to touch it. These are the same links being used on countless full out race cars here in the states on Mustangs, Porsche's, and several other platforms. They have zero noise, and tremendous amounts of articulation, which lets the swaybar actually work and do the job it is designed to do.

     

    The OEM droplinks should be more than adequate. What other mods were on your car? Where you using Semi slicks?

    You would only need more articulation/movement in the droplink if your were putting it under extreme load it wasnt designed for. Open Bearing designed ones should also be perfectly fine for what their designed for, however they would require more maintenance to keep them clean and well lubed. Something which i mentioned should only be considered if your tracking your car and if your doing that you would strip your suspension down often anyway. The open bearing ones would be alittle extreme, but if im honest i'd imagine them being better for "racing use" due to the direct nature they will transfer the load.

     

    Im not saying the Powergrid ones are bad, in fact they look very good. But the fact is, for majority of people on here that use their cars on the public road they probably havn't had a problem with the OEM droplinks and could if they wanted replace 3-4 of them before the cost of a Powergrid ones (only 2 bolts to replace them too). Now the powergrid droplinks aren't a fit and forget item as just like the OEM droplinks they have a rubber bush which WILL perish over time. Obviously they'll last a while but so should the OEM droplinks.

     

    My 350z had done over 60k miles IIRC and i never had one problem with the droplinks. If what you say is true, either the user's are putting them under extreme load, (hitting curbs on track, potholes) etc.. or Nissan have badly designed what is in essence a simple item. Your right in the fact that they do break, in fact my current car is prone for it, but if they break every 2 years im happy paying the £37 or less to have it replaced which does its job perfectly well.

    If they've broke or the car has high mileage then it may be worth considering swapping to the Powerdgrid/similar ones, but certainly not if the bushes are fine and their in good condtion.

     

    Dont fix what isnt broke. All in my humble opinion of course ;)

     

    When the first endlink bent - nothing suspension wise but a set of RSR springs (.7 inch drop, very mild rates), and I was using Potenza S03's at the time. As I upgraded the suspension, the need for proper endlinks became even more apparant. Now with a fully sorted suspension, the ability to adjust swaybar preload comes in very handy. Articulation is critical because that is what allows the swaybar to work :) If your bar is being limited by your endlink, that is not a good thing...your endlink capability needs to exceed the bar, not the other way around.

     

    The open bearing ones are fine I suppose for a full race car, but at what benefit? The Powergrids are a motorsport level part, totally sealed from the elements, maintenance free, and have more articulation than the open bearing units out there. Internally they are a ball bearing socket, housed in a die cast outer shell. The inner shell is polished with the same process as the bearing itself so it is friction-free, and moves as well at full ariticulation as it does at minimal articulation. It's a win-win all around, and they do not need any special attention once fitted. The founder of the company has been a motorsport engineer for the last 25 years, and has a CV that is quite impressive. He was also involved in suspension development on the new-er GT40 while with Ford.

     

    You can read some technical info here:

     

    http://www.powergridinc.com/tech.asp

     

    The Powergrid have no rubber bushing at all, not sure where you got that idea. The only rubber is the boot. In 2 years, mine has never had any issues, nor have I had to replace any of them for the hundreds upon hundreds of those who have purchased them. We specifically sought out the better mousetrap due to the issues I had with my car. We tested them on my car for track days and daily use for 6 months before we offered them for sale. I have no interest in offer a product I would not use myself - it's not worth the time. When we announced them, it became apparant from many other 350Z customers here that they had similar issues, and were also looking for a solution.

     

    Sure, you can buy the OEM ones 3 or 4 times, but to what end? When I have the time to work on my car, and when I spend any amount of money on it I strictly want the final solution. I am not interested in bandaids that I know will fail at some point. For some, that might work fine, it is all up to the end user. Time is valuable, and while I love my car, I've got other priorities in my life too - so I'd rather spend a bit more and have one less part to worry about. If all you do is normal commuting, etc, then stock everything should last for a long time - there really is little need to mod any aspect of the car for that. In addition to normal day to day use, my weekends consist of aggressive street use, and previously, track days, so I needed something that would support all those uses and not give up the ghost.

  6. OEM droplinks will be more than adequate when on oem suspension and also with lowered suspension.

     

    Its only when the Anti-Roll Bar is changed do you need to consider different drop links due to the increased torsion/forces through the bar. I would have thought these would have been provided as a "kit" when you purchase the anti roll bar?

    OEM drop links have rubber bushes on them and over time the rubber will perish as do other bushes on the car. If your still on the standard suspension then replacing the droplinks for new OEM ones is probably worth while as you reach quite high mileage.

    Only when you've replaced the Anti roll/sway bars would i consider changing from oem drop links to the heavy duty ones due to increased NVH. Whiteline also offer spherical bearing drop links at a similar price to the heavy duty ones which would probably be better for people who track their cars.

     

    My advice would be not to go changing your drop links unless you've thought about the use it gets and inspected the condition of your current one. :thumbs:

     

    that's actually not the case at all ;)

     

    on my OEM swaybars, I bent a stock endlink while at a track day. Replaced it, and the corresponding side, with new OEM ones. Within 6 months, they were making noise, because the stock "stud" has minimal amounts of articulation to them. I changed them out for aftermarket units, and did new sways (the Whitelines, ironically). Within a few months, those aftermarket ones were making noise too, because they were an open bearing design. That is when we began development work on our own. During that process, we came across the Powergrid ones, and became their exclusive distributor for North America for the 350Z. They have now been on my car for about 2 years, and zero issues. There are countless examples on the US boards about people with nearly stock suspension having issues with stock endlinks as well...it's just one of those parts that doesn't last, much like the inner control arm bushings. Once they were replaced with our Powergrid ones, that was the last time they had to touch it. These are the same links being used on countless full out race cars here in the states on Mustangs, Porsche's, and several other platforms. They have zero noise, and tremendous amounts of articulation, which lets the swaybar actually work and do the job it is designed to do.

  7. you asked about the NISMO wheels you showed in the picture - we can easily supply them

     

    or, we can supply Gram Light as well, but they are typically a special order, and not stocked in the US as they are not that popular for the Z

  8. Just received a nice urethane transmission mount for the 350Z/G35 (manual transmission) that I will be trying out in my car. Construction is very nice – billet T6 6061 aluminum, with a 75a durometer urethane insert. The sleeve for the bolt is already installed so it should be a drop in replacement for stock. We’ve noticed the factory mount has alot of lateral play to it, which contributes to a bit of a vague shifter feel. On the urethane one, the entire center section is filled in, giving it a much sturdier mount vs the stock one, which has alot of give (see last pic). The stock mount is about a 40a durometer by comparison. I am hoping for big things from this little mod, as it should make shifting alot more direct and precise. More on it later in the week when we install it. If it works out well we'll do a batch and have another neat product to add to the repertoire!

     

    new mount:

     

    new103009%20019.jpg

    new103009%20021.jpg

    new103009%20020.jpg

     

    stock mount:

     

    stocktransmount350z.jpg

  9. I agree - but this is the primary reason the replicas exist and thrive.

     

    The NISMO front bumper is $1200 lets say. Someone decides to replicate it, and sell it for $250.00. The NISMO quality has not changed, their fit and finish is top notch, and it fits correctly the first time. They're packaged well, come with everything needed, and the quality control is very strict. So one ordered in 2006 fits the same as one ordered in 2008. The replica on the other hand, you never quite know what you're getting. One batch may be good, another batch, not so much. But, because a replica now exists that is $250.00, automatically people think the NISMO is overpriced. I think a difference exists between overpriced and expensive - some people can't seem to make that distinction though. To each his own as they say

     

    Can also be a false economy of buy cheap, buy twice too...

     

    At the end of the day as with anything... Caveat emptor!

     

    Very true

  10. I agree - but this is the primary reason the replicas exist and thrive.

     

    The NISMO front bumper is $1200 lets say. Someone decides to replicate it, and sell it for $250.00. The NISMO quality has not changed, their fit and finish is top notch, and it fits correctly the first time. They're packaged well, come with everything needed, and the quality control is very strict. So one ordered in 2006 fits the same as one ordered in 2008. The replica on the other hand, you never quite know what you're getting. One batch may be good, another batch, not so much. But, because a replica now exists that is $250.00, automatically people think the NISMO is overpriced. I think a difference exists between overpriced and expensive - some people can't seem to make that distinction though. To each his own as they say

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