Adam@Z1auto.com

we offer the genuine one - not cheap, but fit and finish is absolutely first rate

I work for Parkers (http://www.thepartspeople.co.uk) based in the Midlands. I could get all the details/prices of the parts you require for you on Monday if you want?

 

Let me know.

 

Many Thanks,

Hassan

pm'd

anyone have a connection for Fiat parts, or know of a good, reliable parts reseller? I've got a couple part #'s need to get pricing and availability on, from a model a few years old (2007 Strada)

if anyone can point me in the right direction, I'd appreciate it

we don't sell Berk

if it came from us, you have Ultimate Racing cats. I've found them to be the best over the years with NISMO, and we have tons and tons of customers running it. But, the #'s of members out there can't be by accident, so we always caution people when running a NISMO exhaust now with anything but stock cats. What tends to happen is the flex's split. A nice way to fix it is weld a brace between them, or do as I did on my car...cut them out and replace with straight pipe

Alex - yes, you are right - when used as a pair only though. To get an HR header on a DE requires the use of HR cats. To get HR gets to work on a DE requires HR headers. Either of these will then mate to any Y pipe/exhaust.

The HR and DE Y pipes are different in their merge points (ID might be different too, not sure), but overall length is the same, making them swappable on their own

first thing you really need to do is establish whether that desired power is at the wheels or crank

next, is setting a budget for yourself to accomplish the desired goal

third, what year is the car?

I'd advise against using any high flow cats or test pipes with the NISMO, as the NISMO Y pipe is well known to split when mated together with anything aftermarket. We've been lucky over the years in that it's only happened in isolated cases for us, but it's well documented all over the world with every brand cat out there

DE exhausts fit HR's as well. HR Y pipe and DE Y pipes (both stock and aftermarket) are interchangeable. HR headers and HR cats/test pipes are HR exclusive, though some (not all) DE header/test pipe combos fit HR's as well (with some minor modding)

the lights will physically fit, yes

there is a slight mod needed to fit facelift (2007-2008) dual HID lights to an earlier car but its merely an issue of 1 wire being clipped, and takes seconds to do

Your car has to have factory HID's

wiring, etc will all be the same, but the beam will point to the wrong side of the road as they are intended for LHD cars. If you can source it from a RHD facelifted car, that's your best bet but these tend to be scarce

numerous issues with the ABS sensors, and people having interference issue with front fender liners

we have the stage 0 in stock

their revised brackets stink too quite frankly

we sell their full range, and have for years...Eibach too (same pieces). If I won't use it on my own car, I won't sell it

it is $140 shipped for polished and $150 shipped for black

we have polished and black in stock

http://z1auto.com/prodmore.asp?model=35 ... rodid=3795

be very careful with those SPC ones. We don't carry them for a reason (or the Eibach for that matter as they are the same) -lots of issues with ABS sensors (since you have to relocate them) and some users report interference with the fender liners when trying to adjust max positive camber

any reason you need caster adjustment? My car is singificantly lower than yours, sees a mix of street and track, and caster has not need a need of mine (I run Cusco arms which have no such adjustment)

another alternative are these - arguably the nicest camber arms on the market IMHO

http://z1auto.com/prodmore.asp?model=35 ... rodid=3967

not trying to kill your sale or anything, just want to make sure you end up with something you'll be happy with

the spring rate on a true setup out back really has nothing to do with the spring rate of a spring in the stock location as everything changes

typically you'll be using a spring that's 50% of the front, but it will be alot of trial and error

make sure you're using the correct arms to eliminate the rear spring bucket, as well as upgrading all the suspension mount bushings out back, as they will go bad, they were never intended to deal with the forces that a true rear coilover will generate

get yourself a spacer...no chance of it cracking and, no need to go through the hassle of getting a replacement

wow got two names nothing esle

 

To be honest don't think Nismo is the way since I'd need to get a standard nissan 350z lsd first and then swap in the nismo stuff, also heard it eats the clutch/flywheel...

 

Think Quaife is the way for me but want to hear some other routes and also WHY I should not get one

The NISMO is a direct drop in replacement for a base (non LSD) car with manual transmission.

Quaife is nice, I use one now myself, but less than ideal if track use is the primary motive (especially on r compounds), as the Quaife only works with both wheels on the ground. The problem is, Z's tend to lift the inside drive wheel and when that happens, you are back to having an open diff. The clutch type, like a NISMO, affords you adjustability in terms of lockup %, and it always works, no matter what. Downside is they are not quite as kind at very low speeds on the road (ie, 3 point turns, or pulling into or out of a parking spot). Alot can be mitigated by different fluids, but it will do it to some degree. The real upside of the NISMO is it's cheaper than the Quaife, and comes with the bearings, seals and hardware you will need as well as fluid. Quaife comes with nothing, and will require additional $$ for extra parts.

A proper diff cooler setup is going to run you way more than the diff itself, by the time you factor in the pump, lines, etc. Again unless you have an honest to god race car, it's tremendously overkill and not at all required

We stock both btw, so whichever you need, feel free to let us know

we offer the JDM spec stuff (direct fit, all fiberglass)

about a 7 week lead time to get it

we don't anymore, they are no longer being brought into the US

if you can organize a bunch of guys together and we send to 1 address, it will cut down on shipping costs dramatically per unit

shipping on bumpers really depends on which exact one, as the dimensions can vary alot

they all go via freight, so to do a singular part, it's pricey. To ship them in bulk, or to send with a bunch of other stuff is the best route to do it

yep we're dealers for both Work and Weds

thanks again

thanks again guys, post some pics for me!

On a Z, pillowballs really offer no meaningful benefit for the top mounts unless it's a full out race car, and you convert all the rest of the various bushings to pillowball as well. Otherwise, the std rubber upper mounts Cusco also offers are silent, last longer, and are less expensive to purchase. When I had my Zero 2, they started out as pillowball versions. I eventually converted to the std upper mounts when the pillows started making noise, and from that point on, advised Cusco to not even bother bringing the pillowball type into the US at all (unless as a special order, where the customer was advised of the above in advance).

Plus, on many cars the "pillowball" type upper mount also tends to denote a camber plate. However, due to the suspension geometry of the Z, such mounts are not possible, and since you need other parts to adjust camber/toe anyway, best to put the money saved towards those

the Fontana car is very impressive - 3.8 Cosworth kit, dry sump, just the engineering that went into the engine position is pretty trick

the RJN motors as well - amazing equipment, tons of power. There are a few other firms out there as well that do full race spec engines (none of whom are on any message boards ) - I'd love to find out just a bit about what they know, but sadly, they are in a whole different league unto themselves.

in the end, I'm very happy with my car as a whole, as it gives me exactly what I wanted - balance.