Keith D

A colleague was complaining today about his EV main stealers service.  £300 for a pollen filter change and the usual underside walk around video.  The words that come to mind are greed, profiteering, fraud. 

Hi and welcome (from Somerset) 

The cat status is still on the history, it's not removed. 

I'm not a legal expert but I believe there is an obligation to declare the car was a cat N when you sell it. 

Personally I've always thought cat D/N was a bit unfair. Just a few pounds either way can determine when one car is repaired whilst another is forever cat N. 

Also think on an older / classic car it's all a bit academic. On a 3 year old car it matters.

It adds a 'condition inspected' to the HPI check, it will say '1 recorded' or similar, and include the name of the inspecting co and a reference number for the report.  It doesn't change the history of the car though.  Prospective buyers can obtain the report, and it will say something like 'previously recorded as cat N on condition register' and give the date of the inspection, inspector name etc. 

LV, fully comp, >9 years NCD, protected NCD, 2000 miles per year, zero excess, £320

Next year will likely be at the point where I can't argue mods are like for like components and will need to start declaring them, so who knows

Personally I'd bite the bullet and get it remapped/fixed properly by someone who knows these cars well, there are several on the Pro Traders thread.    Otherwise Ecutek remote/networked service seem to be popular in the US. 

All engines are not the same.

I'd guess the existing OE oil sender will power the cluster warning light, and also be an input for reduced power / limp home logic (the IPDM). 

Low risk approach you could always buy an oil filter sandwich plate and put the sender in that and blank off the other ports.

L1 for a 1/8 NPT is 0.1615".  Multiply by 25.4 = 4.1.  So you should be able to screw the sender in to a depth of 4.1 mm by hand.  

The pitch of 1/8 NPT is 0.03". So multiply by 25.4 = 0.762.  4. 1 / 0.762 = 5.3.  So hand tight the sender should be engaged 5.3 pitches. 

If you have it use some engineers blue in the thread then hand tighten and remove and measure the witness marks. 

Have you checked the thread size is right on the adaptor and sender?  It might be the supplier has got stock mixed up?

National Standard Taper Pipe Threads Size NPT Chart  (figures are imperial, so multiple by 25.4)

I've ordered an a pillar trim and some gauge housings I can fix-fill-trim to mount an oil pressure gauge and boost gauge, so interested in reading how you get on with this mod.  What sender did you buy?

Realistically supercharging will probably be 2nd half of the year.  (Depends if I land a contract I'm hoping for in Jan, which will mean 6 months of long hours)

The rad blurb says its for a manual, my car is auto.  Is it still the right one?

Welcome and enjoy!

I don't know what it is about blue paint, but to me it always looks cracking under lights at night time events.  I nearly bought a 350z convertible in blue 20-odd years ago, I even got as far as putting a deposit down, but went for a blue Mitsubishi GTO import instead for a project car.

So far I've got all my parts either at the local stealers or @Coz@TORQEN (who is brilliant)

Washed and waxed the car to within an inch of its life... well what else are the days between xmas and NY for? 🤣  Photo doesn't do it justice, its spotless top to bottom inside and out.

I'm thinking I'll probably address the cooling next so it's ready for supercharging.  Being a 2015 it shouldn't have the gallery gasket issue, but if I fit a Mishimoto rad and an oil cooler, is it worth replacing gaskets and screws whilst access is good, or is the original good for the life of the engine?  Anyone have thoughts? 

Shame, I'm still saving for a supercharger kit + oil cool kit + FI plugs etc, a grand off would be the deal of the century 🤣

Never seen one, Nissan only built a few hundred I believe?

The 370z is our 3rd car, I have it on limited miles policy and pay £380 a year fully comp, zero excess & protected no claims

Just checking before I order, I assume this is for a pair?

The wheel speed sensors transmits a variable analogue voltage to the ABS module, where they will be transformed and from there sent to the cluster as a CAN speed message.  So in theory you could change the voltage range by changing the wheel speed sensors to ones with a different range, or by fitting resistors in to the harness.  But will be a lot of trial and error buggeration I doubt on my best day I'd have the patience for.  You'll need to fix all 4 otherwise the ABS module will get confused and think the front wheels are going faster/slower than the rears and pull on the TC, then probably get really confused and go into a limp mode or even sorry you're not going anywhere I'm not playing mode.

All things considered I'd look again for the right gauge overlay, or if I can't find one look for a company who could print me one.

If a car is written off the insurer owns the salvage don't they?  Or did you ask for the salvage?

Before covid I used to drive 15k miles a year and change my every day driver for a new one every 3 years.  Since covid I work from home 4 days a week, drive about 3k miles a year, and can't justify a new car to myself.  I know most of my colleagues are the same.

Hi Devon, I believe so!  I remember liking your wheels.   Catch up next time maybe, I'm thinking of going along on the next Tokyo Twilights evening on 20th Dec weather permitting.

MY nephew had an S2000 for a while and when I drove it I was disappointed.   Unless you are continually reving the nuts out of it I found it felt quite gutless.

I recently fitted the DBA front and rear kits, they have great bite even when cold, very quiet no squealing, no dust, and they look great. 

Bolt extractors are one of those tools you don't use for years and then for one rounded rusted bolt they are worth every penny.  Mine are Minotaur brand.  Never heard of the brand before I bought them but have found them unbreakable.

Not necessarily, depends on the fault.    If the speed sensors check out I'd probably next do a continuity check between the speed sensor plugs and the ABS module plug to rule out that part of the harness (loose plug, pins, broken wire etc).  Then personally I'd move on to testing the yaw rate sensor and the steering angle sensor.

JMHO others might have a different approach.

Sounds like the car thinks one wheel is continually slipping.  I'd stick a multimeter on the wheel speed sensors, first check they have battery voltage, then disconnect and check resistance across them.  If its not the same left to right or resistance is zero, its a fault with the wheel speed sensor / wiring.  If its not at battery voltage to begin with its a fault upstream, maybe in the ABS module.