Stock

Have they checked for power steering leaks first? If it isn't leaking, I'd try a power steering fluid flush first.

Hi, might be worth sending a PM checking if @ZMANALEX has any in stock.

If it's not overheating (thought it could be because you said only both fronts showed the discolouration), it could also be an foreign fluid (could be as Glen said) that has spread on the discs. Get a clean rag and spray a little brake cleaner on it and lightly dab the disc to see if the discolouration goes away. Don't get any brake cleaner on the caliper or wheels, it will eat the paint away. Do this after the car has been sitting for an hour to cool down.

Based on what you've said it looks like you've cooked the discs, possible if the brakes are not allowed to cool enough between each heavy braking cycle. They will still work, but are a lot more likely to crack and warp under heavy braking; they need replacing. Change the pads with the discs, always, then drive and brake gently for the first hundred miles.

Leaking bushing or strut perhaps? Have you had a look under the boot liner if anything has leaked in there?

Get some brake fluid ready and make sure to test the brakes too, you don't want to be stuck on the side of the road with a seized caliper, or worse still have a line blow and have no brakes, might need a few gentle brake runs to clear off any residual rust on the discs, then give it a few emergency stops on a safe road. Mushy/weak pedal and the calipers need bleeding.

20 hours ago, KyleR said:

They’re sold, just whatever is listed remains, bud.

Oh, no prob, GLWS

Is that a Banana arm bushing in that boot net pic?

Tread pattern makes a big difference for driving in the wet too, Michelin PS4s are great, if you don't want PS4s, then Goodyear Eagle F1 asy 5 are a good alternative, Costco usually has sales on the Michelins and Goodyears, might be worth getting a membership card.

The most important thing is the driver though, premium tyres won't save you if you floor it when aquaplaning or apply sudden rapid steering input around a sharp bend, "adapt your driving to the appropriate type and condition of the road you are on".

On 22/09/2019 at 11:56, W8BGS said:

I find the zed is invisible at car shows and people would rather photograph a standard focus st or vw polo. Around here there seems to be no love for Jap cars. If its not a bagged Audi nobody cares. 

 

I usually get a lot of cars try and race me and a lot of kids shouting rev it. 

 

I do get a fair amount of people let me out at junctions. So can’t really complain.

The racing thing is boy racers, there will always be folks like that - there's a place to race and that's at the track, other people use the roads too. Happy to rev the zed to entertain though, gives them something to work towards (and it sounds great with the custom exhaust).

Brake checking a truck? That's a Darwin award candidate.

Hi all, after some cheap alloys which will clear the brembos, ideally bare wheel or with winters mounted. Not looking to spend a fortune as they'll only be used in winter for safety and not style (few scratches and chips are fine) so ideally below £200 collected in North West region.

Probably work out better and cheaper to do an electric conversion than LPG at this point.

Might also be worth checking out MTEC OEM replacements as well, used them before on my other cars and they are fine for daily driving, never tracked them before though. The owner of MTEC also has or had a 350z too. I'd stick with official Brembo pads though.

Thanks Alex, do you sell the hoses complete with clamp, radiator cap and 10L of coolant? How much would I be looking at incl. postage? I assume I'd only have to do a "partial" flush of the coolant system (rad only) and not bleed the whole block.

Hi all, coolant has come out near my rad cap and upper coolant hose, sprayed itself towards the passenger side of my engine bay and down under. Nothing on drivers side, suspect upper coolant hose leak? Oil shows no signs of coolant (head gasket), and engine temps have been fine so far, coolant overflow tank is at max. Just a bit concerned as it looks like it's been there a while, little speck of coolant also visible there too, so might be spraying sporadically. The car is a HR (2007+), do they have different hoses to the DEs?

Many thanks!

Did you ever manage to find quotes for the arch repair? I assume they would have to weld a new piece of steel in and blend the whole side of the car.

Hi, if you need an upgrade, Tarmacsportz do an uprated brace for £150: https://www.tarmacsportz.co.uk/tarmac-sportz-nissan-350z-03-09-replacement-w-brace.html

OEM brace are prone to rusting and snapping without proper rust treatment. Good luck with the search.

PM'ed.

Bump, still need a passenger side jet if anyone has one.

On 05/06/2019 at 17:07, GreenLandy said:

Pretty sure this is from my old 55 plate DE. Can check if you tell me how? 

 I briefly compared it to my HR manual set and didn’t look too different tbh.

Page 5-13 refers to max engine speed, DEs are 6600, RevUp is 7000 and HR is 7500, I think some of the technical info is slightly different but most of the manual is the same.

What year 350Z is it for? The manuals are slightly different depending on facelift.

On 02/06/2019 at 14:58, davey_83 said:

Powder coating can be bad for forged wheels 

It's alright, you just have to let them know that they're forged, and they need to cure at a lower temperature, it'll take longer to cure that's all.

Open the windows?

It's all overblown to be honest, Chinese tech is used in nearly everything nowadays, including the US military. They are one of the largest mobile phone manufacturers in the world, a little ban won't stop them. P20 pictures look superb.