EzeePzee

21 minutes ago, Hypnosis said:

Enjoyed the read mate. You heading up to Japfest again this year? 

I wish  It clashes with a family holiday this year!

I'll be going to JDM Combe for sure (paid up already), and possibly Simply Japanese at Beaulieu, Jap Performance Show and probably a few Sunday services with PH too. Would be good to catch up!

6 hours ago, da.murf said:

Just reading through this, car is looking great and appreciating the way you are laying out each month including part numbers etc. 

 

You thread has made my mind up to get my wheel returned by royal with the orange stitch. 

 

Have you noticed the leather softer or slightly more plush? I feel the oem wheel really lets the interior down. 

So the wheel removed from my car was an aftermarket wheel that I sold on, so I only really have that to compare against. 

That said, from my brief encounter with my worn OEM wheel I can definitely notice a difference. This wheel feels great, and has a small amount of “give” ie softer that the original. The stitching is what really makes it look the part - Royals really know how to do a good job! 

Month 14:  Jan 2019

 

Completed This Month:

• HR facelift headlight upgrade
• Fix LED side markers / reflectors

 = £300 total spend

 

Another month gone already! And an unexpected purchase (again) but one I couldn’t really turn down. I managed to source a pair of HR headlights for a good price, and got cracking on installing them in the car. Relatively straight forward, although in pulling out the existing headlights I found that the clear side reflectors in the bumper had wires going to them!! Wasn’t expecting that, especially as they’ve never lit up before. So, after a bit of investigation I found a very poor wiring job had been completed, wiring these into the indicator cables. Presumably a previous owner wanted these as additional indicators. I was not keen on this idea, and as I had to redo the wiring anyway I decided to wire them up to the sidelights, meaning that they’ll be on whenever the lights are.

i used some proper automotive waterproof connectors, and soldered/heatshrunk the wires on rather than used the nasty scotchlock type connectors used previously. I had a few internal repairs to do to the reflectors once I powered them up, but was a cheap fix and they’re back in the car and looking good! 

I have already purchased a headlight restoring kit to clean up the lenses in Feb, but I’m very hopeful that this will be a massive improvement to the looks and effectiveness of the lights on the car too.

Ill get some better photos in the daylight soon. 

Photos

1. Nso93 - Paid

2. cloud1440

3. 14N

4. ShortPaul

5. Silverthorn - Paid

6. Valy

7. Liviu

8. Pagan - Paid

9. Liamm56

10. Umster 

11. EzeePzee - Paid

Posting to watch the thread in case anything changes with attendees. 

I presume it’s normal - or at least google came up with a few similar questions and answers. Perhaps turned the wheel too fast.?

Hi folks,

Doing a bit of work on my 350z tonight, and had to turn the front wheels to one side whilst I worked in the arch. 

10 mins later I noticed that my power steering reservoir was overflowing, so moped it up with a rag. Took the cap off and it’s brimmed.. 

Is this as a result of me turning the wheels with engine off? 

Anything to worry about? I presume because the pump wasn’t running.

cheers

On 17/01/2019 at 20:30, 350Butcher said:

Cheers.........they do look right from in the car but I won’t  be covering £400+ worth of gauges in glue!! But good to know the 52mm gauges slot in so good to factory pod. 

To be fair the glue used looks to be the sort of stuff that will pick off in chunks quite easily - a bit like a hot glue gun. Whoever fitted them did a pretty good job as they are very secure. Cabling is a nightmare but then that’s because I’ve fitted an aftermarket HU and used the adapters available to make sure the steering wheel controls still work etc. 

And yes, 52mm Defi gauges. 

So whilst it’s tidy from the front, it’s not great from the back - haha!

In my defence, I didn’t install them, but I’m quite pleased with how they look so can’t complain too much.

From behind they are held in place with a lot of glue around the binacles, and the control box is sat in the upper dash pocket hidden away. 

2 minutes ago, Nso93 said:

Usually about a month before the show. They’ll announce in usually in April 

Cheers. Was more referring to getting on the club stand than entry to the show, presume there is no max capacity? 

Is there a deadline for buying tickets to be on the stand? Cheers

On 19/12/2018 at 16:07, Silverthorn said:

1. Nso93 - Paid

2. cloud1440

3. 14N

4. ShortPaul

5. Silverthorn - Paid

6. Valy

7. Liviu

8. Pagan - Paid

9. Liamm56

10. Umster 

11. EzeePzee - TBC

Month 13: Dec 2018

 

Completed This Month:

• LED sidelight bulbs - £0
• 370z indoor car cover - £160
• Ctek MSX 5.0 extension cable - £12
• Fire Extinguisher - £9.50

= £181.50 total spend

Another month of being SORN’d completed, but I still managed to spend a couple of hundred on the car! Haha. 

A really good deal on an internal car cover came up, and although labelled 370z it’s a perfect fit for the 350z too. Genuine part that’s very hard to come by, so I snapped it up. For this though I also had to purchase an extension for my car battery conditioner so that it could remain connected when the cover is on. 

I also threw in some LED sidelight bulbs as the yellow colour really didn’t match that of the HIDs already on the car. 

A last minute addition to the car was a decent, albeit small capacity fire extinguisher. This is for peace of mind should the worst happen. It’s more to ensure that all passengers have a chance to get out of the car rather than saving the car, but if the latter is possible is worth doing!! 

 

Halfords advanced jobby with warranty has done me well to date  

I’m sure you’ll sort it, if not someone on here will be able to help  

2 minutes ago, veeg33 said:

They are completely separate item. Transponder is just for immobiliser and the PCB is just to lock and unlock your zed.

Lots of Nissans used the same key. Not all used a separate transponder. If the key that is purchased was not originally from a 350z then there is a risk that the key won’t work. Ask me how I know this, having spent the last few months sorting it out

The PCBs with onboard transponder are different to look at, slightly different shape but in the same plastic casing so you can only confirm by opening up the key fob. 

A new transponder, coding and blade cutting costs around £50-60 should you need one. And if you have one to clone they only need the original key and not the car present. 

Im sure you’ll be fine, just thought I’d try and be helpful

There are many different fobs out there, even with the same frequency and details on the outside casing. Some have transponder as part of the PCB, others have it separate. Best bet is to get internal photos of yours and ask for the same for the key you’re buying to replace it. I bought the wrong one but second time lucky, and I now have my original key plus a flip key that I’ve put together and had coded.  

12 hours ago, veeg33 said:

Normal jack will not fit underneath, you'll need low profile jack or drive the car up a wooden plank. I had it fitted recently, my old jack is now redundant. Probably around 1½ inch less height from the ground. 

Thanks. I already have an SGS low profile jack, but don’t think I have a 1.5” gap when I use it, so that’s something I’d need to look into. It is quite a big addition to the side skirts and as I struggle with a couple of ramps in car parks etc anyway, maybe it’s not a good idea to fit these. 

I appreciate this is a very old thread, but presume the side diffusers haven’t changed since then....

Does anyone know how much lower these make the side of the car? Reason for ask is for getting a jack underneath - my car is already on coilovers and therefore a bit lower, I don’t want any additional height/grounding issues.

Thanks

Same spoiler as on my TT I think - Ings ?

I'm Basingstoke-based, work in Bracknell. But my 350z is off the road for winter.  Will keep an eye on this though.

My folks are Waterlooville, so I'm regularly down that way. Basingstoke myself.

Month 12: Nov 2018

Completed This Month:

Flip Key 2nd keyfob - transponder chip coding

Car insurance! 

Towing eye cover replacement

= £79 total spend (Not including the car insurance)

So with the car off road, I decided to get the flip key working. Good news is that after a trip to Timpson, I now have a fully functioning key! It cost more than I wanted, but I really couldn't find a transponder chip and someone to code it for cheaper. Dead simple to do though, they didn't need the car - and they cut the blade for free too. So the key cost me about £70 all in.

Car insurance is always a drain on finances, but after plenty of negotiation and shopping around, I managed to get a price that was about 22% cheaper than last year! I was very happy with that, so am now insured via Greenlight.

Finally, after someone stole (or it fell off) my front bumper towing eye cover, I secured a used one from ebay for pennies. 

No photos from this month, but hopefully something more interesting next month.

Month 11: Oct 2018

Completed This Month:

Replace Rear Screen demister LED in control unit

Flip Key 2nd keyfob

Adjust Dump valve (again)

SORN the car!

= £9 total spend

So yet another very quite front on the car project, have been trying to line up some of the more time consuming work for when the car is off the road for winter at the end of Oct.

Having another LED fail in the heater control unit, I had to pull this apart again and replace the rear screen demister LED. Simple enough as I've done it before for other LEDs, just surprised another one failed! See previous posts for photos.

I also thought I'd have a bash at getting a second remote keyfob working. I researched on the model I needed, bought the wrong one (and subsequently sold it on) and found another - this time correct. Followed the programming process as found on these forums and it now locks and unlocks the car without issue. Total cost here was £8 for the keyfob, but I still need to get the blade cut and an immobiliser chip coded. Stay tuned for progress here!

Car has been SORN'ed at the end of October, so I'll crack on with some of the other jobs now I'm not driving the car.