galaxyg

Hi All - Thanks for the comments and advice. I've had a number of offers on the car which were acceptable to me, so the next owner will now make the decisions instead. I can't keep it forever - I'm 50 now and there's a finite number of years ahead and a near-infinite number of interesting cars I've yet to own. If I'd have kept my Prelude I'd never have got the RX-8, and if I'd kept the RX-8 I'd never have got the 350Z. And so on into the future. As it is I've had the Z longer than the Prelude and RX-8 combined. 7 years is a good run and it'll still be the slowest depreciating car I've ever owned.

Thanks. This is one of the worst areas up at the front. I don't know much about these things but it looked to me/them like something non-removable?

Hi, Looking for some advice. My 2005 350Z will fail it's MOT in a week's time and it's beyond economical repair to attempt anything with it. The subframe front and rear is too rusty which is enough by itself but the entire exhaust and all of the discs and pads are also too far gone. I figure some of the other parts of the car have some value and the engine has only done 108500 miles. Are there people out there that regularly buy such things - 350Z specialists?. Better than just a "every car is the same" scrap price I'd hope.

Thanks. No, the end is within the bumper. So I see it as a cosmetic problem only, I'll hope they see the same.

One of the exhaust tips has gone missing, leaving a jagged rusty pipe in it's place. Anyone know if that's an MOT fail item? Perhaps I should get it replaced anyway but due to circumstances I'm looking for whatever is the cheapest solution, so OEM / basic or close to it I guess. Something like Eurofit, Kwik-fit etc? Michael.

Cam sensor has been replaced now and so far, so good.

Finally garage's guy is back from Covid. No more than an hour to fit they say, so I've now ordered the part on the link above, a few mins ago. Thanks again!

Thanks. Just checking the garage are happy to fit, then will order.

They were reading a fault code on their machine, not inspecting the car as there wasn't time at the time. The diagnostic confirmed what the Foxwell machine I'd plugged in earlier had said. The ABS Stuff seems to be a red herring, caused down the line by the Cam sensor. Currently the fault is cleared though in another thread I've been advised it'll be back after 3 cold-hot-cold cycles. Foxwell results are below, if that tells anything about the bank.

Thanks. Bank1 or 2 - That I don't know. Is there any way to tell beyond a garage opening it up? I'm not very handy.

The garage near me needs to source one to fit my car. They've found a few options and are not sure which is correct. £60-£120 so far. I thought I'd help them out by asking here. Mine is a 2005 350Z.

Right. It is the cam position sensor. Also confirmed it at a local Japanese sports car specialist I found. For now they've cleared the fault and at the moment, the car has entirely forgotten about the problem - no warning lights. I'll get it changed anyway, I can't see that lasting.

Thanks! Studying now...

Thanks for info, good to know and yeah sounds logical to start with engine not ABS. I have no idea where to start on the above however. 😀 I'm about as good with electrics as I am with mechanicals. I can change a battery/fuse. Beyond that... (motions hand going over head). Testing data might be useful though thanks, if I can figure out what I'm doing.

Quite some time later, I've finally got my hands on a tool and some time and run it, with the following results (image below) Which initially suggest ABS. At the same time I was running the diagnostic, the car did turn on the ABS light *and* the Stability light *and* the "slippery road" light. And then off again And then a while later on again. Repeat. Every time a small click from the car. Although a bit off Googling gives me a youtube link that suggests Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction) C1130 will also cause an ABS light fault, even if the ABS is actually OK. Any experience/advice welcome.

I'm amazed that has trickled down all the way to a 17 year old sports car, but indeed it seems so.

Thanks a kind offer, thanks. I'll keep you posted in this thread.

Stafford.

Plugging in a diagnosis tool - yes. Actually carrying out repairs - no. Unless they're super super easy. I can change a wheel and change a battery. Any suggestions on what's the best thing to get to scan it with?

I was looking at the 62 current 350Zs on AutoTrader this morning. I bought my 2005 Z in 2016 for £5k (@ 96,000 miles) and in that time it's done about 10,000 more miles. It's also had a few thousand spent on in insofar as a clutch, flywheel (at Horsham developments), tyres, near-side banana bracket, W-brace, exhaust, pads, discs, re-trimmed steering wheel, new (OEM) gear knob, S2000 stubby aerial and such - all of which is documented. The need for all that work likely explained the purchase price which was about £1K lower than any comparable Z nearby. But now - 6 years later, £5k still seems to be the entry price for a Z. And with more than 110K miles at that. I've not been to AutoTrader for a while. Is this about normal these days? Am I driving a somewhat-valuable "classic"? Michael.

Standard 6 spoke wheels that come with the basic 2005 Z and the front tyres are Bridgestone 225/45 R18, , rears are Pirelli 245/45 ZR18. Fronts could probably do with a little more air in them, though I have no idea if that's relevant to the problem.

I've seen a very similar thread also going on here, although mine gives slights different symptoms. Was driving happily yesterday for about 40 minutes, then all three lights came on at once whilst waiting at a roundabout. No other effects, so I pulled over, turned off the car and restarted it - which it didn't do as easily as normal. Arrived destination, left car parked for a couple of hours. Started perfectly - engine light on, ESP/Slip not on. 15 mins down the road, a momentary drop of revs, ESP/Slip comes on, car then behaves as normal. If there's a limp mode, it can "limp" happily at 90mph as usual. Exact same "engine light first, plus the other two about 15 mins later" also occurred later the same day. So I guess I need to get some kind of device to read what the fault is - I'm looking for suggestions on the device. I don't intend to be doing a lot of this kind of thing so whatever is the cheapest that is also actually useful. Suggestions welcome. Also suggestions for what might be wrong with the Z also welcome.

I've got this same set of warning lights with my 350z now, albeit mine does not go into limp mode.

I was amazed just how many Zs were at Japfest. I think the only model more represented (and only maybe) was the much newer GT86.

Thanks. I guess then I'll have to get the battery out to see it.