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Woodzman

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Posts posted by Woodzman

  1. Looks good, impressed with the cage and its fitting.

     

    How far do you expect to travel to find a good tarmac rally? Think there are some good rallies in Europe, the Ypres for example. Only asking as would be nice to see you running on a stage, make a change from all the escorts! Might even venture to say would sound better, provided you have the right exhaust. Might not scream like a BDA or Millington tho.

     

    Some great roads around the Scottish borders, can recommend the Jim Clark but that's a canny hike from Kent. Quicker to cross the channel!

     

    My boss is big into rallying, has Just got a mark 2 Escort built by Densport, 300ish Vauxhall horse power, sequential box etc. We put it on the weighbridge at the farm the other day: 980Kg.  Not sure what it's geared to but he also has a 1600 Swift which I think will max out at around 120mph (used to be a 2000 with nearly 300Hp but it proved to be a bit too much in a FWD, on gravel anyway). My point being choose your final drive carefully, but then you know that anyway.

     

    Good luck with the rest of the build and look forward to seeing it on a stage someday.

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  3. This just popped up on my Youtube feed. As a back story to the Z it's quite interesting, the guy has obviously done his homework.

     

    Graph near the end showing lifetime Z sales from the beginning is a little foreboding for the future.

     

     

    • Like 3
  4. Would imagine it's there to hold the disc onto the hub, tho' normally would expect to see a countersunk set screw that sits flush with the face of the disc.

  5. Not sure if this will help, but I had similar issues earlier this year. ABS and TCS lights would come on, seemingly fairly randomly, but with increasing frequency. So I bought a code reader (an Ancel AD610) and low and behold two codes popped up C1109 Battery voltage and C1106 RR LH Sensor-2). So similar symptoms albeit a different problem.

     

    Turns out that corrosion in the mounting hole for the ABS sensor on the alloy diff housing had pushed the sensor away from its activation ring, presumably causing a weaker signal and ultimately a code to pop up, lighting up the dash. Photos may show this:

     

    Sensor gap before:

     

    20190423_103951.jpg.27a4a1d2455dabfa66592100ad906f6a.jpg

     

     

    Corrosion on other side (mounting bolt for sensor on immediate left)

     

    20190423_104005.jpg.67616528f0e5fb4d98760de32662005c.jpg

     

     

    Gap when taken out, cleaned, copper greased and re-fitted:

     

    20190423_115247.jpg.c9d6bc49f5db6c61229e8cc903bff74c.jpg

     

     

    Not sure if this helps but might be something else to check, which is fairly easy once the back of the car is jacked up. Alternatively it might be useful for anyone else looking to track down similar issues?

     

     

     

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1
  6. Well, I guess I should have booked earlier! just tried booking a club ticket through the Trax site but it is showing Club Display Vehicle Passes as sold out. Track time also sold out bar one session for advanced drivers. 

     

    Whilst I'm sure it's a great show, I don't think it would be the same unless you're in a group with other similar cars. If it was a couple of hours up the road it might be different but on this occasion, given the distance for me, I'm going to have to give it a miss. So thanks for the advice andy james and good luck guys, enjoy the show, I hope the weather holds up for you. See you next year? 

  7. Thought about attending this last year but i think it clashed with RallyGB, anyway, for anyone travelling a distance what sort of time do you need to be on the stand?

     

    Silverstone is probably 4 if not 5 hours for me so although I wouldn't mind an early start I'm just wondering if down and back is feasible in a day, without a stop over the night before.

     

    Is anyone thinking of doing track time? And if so how does that work? Presumably you disappear from the parking area at your allotted time and then slot back in afterwards?

  8. We have Milwaukee at work (on a large farming estate) and they're really good. The 1/2" one tackles a surprising amount and is not too heavy, so I would imagine a 3/8" to be good for the small stuff. The 3/4" one that we have usually removes the bolts on our chipper blade clamps, and they're torqued up to 1,000 Nm when the blades are changed. I can also recommend the 4"angle grinder; the keyless disc locking is a really useful feature. The only problems we have had is with the rapid chargers but our local supplier replaced them straight away, in fact he had a spare box full so they may have a a few issues early on! 

     

    Our mechanic (who has his own set of tools) also has his own set of Milwaukee gear. Similarly our local fencer, who I help out occasionally, also has a full set of Milwaukee grinders, drills and drivers, in fact he's just bought a Milwaukee battery chainsaw. 

     

    If you're not using this sort of stuff every day then any of the good branded products like deWalt, bosch (blue pro series), Makita or indeed Ryobi will probably suit just fine, I've used deWalt for years myself but if I was looking for replacements then i probably wouldn't look past the Milwaukee.

     

     

  9. None, and I'm 6'3".

     

    With a helmet on I am aware that my helmet is close, or rubbing on the headlining, but that's only a small issue on a track. You soon forget about it in that situation anyway; too many other things to think about!

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  11. On 26/09/2018 at 13:50, daz8235 said:

    Eep I am totally inept with this stuff anyone in the north east available to help that has done this before ? Thanks

    I've not had to do this before but I'm reasonably confident with mechanical things so willing to give it a go if you need a hand. How hard can it be?.....

     

    Whereabouts are you?

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