Rob350

I've just pulled a 15 and fuse under the foot well, labelled "elec sys" and the ampage drops to 0.08, just googled that fuse and it's like 15 different systems.  🤮

So I've got the doors open, door latches closed, bonnet open, bonnet latch and switch closed. Locked it. Left it for 30mins, then put multi metre on between the neg wire and neg post, on 10 amp setting, you can see the reading vary for 30seconds then it settles at 0.14 and doesnt move.

The only fuses I havnet pulled are the big 1s, the big square 1s ect. I've pulled all the flat 10 and 15 amp 1s 1 by 1, next to the battery and the 1s in the drivers football and the metre still reads 0.14.

When I pulled the rear lights fuse at 1st it dropped to 0.1, then put it back in, it went to 0.14 again, so checked and I had a license plate bulb out, so I put a new 1 in, tried again and it's still at 0.14.. pulled the fuse, it just stays at 0.14. Pulled the new bulb out and tried the fuse again and it doesnt drop anymore. 

And this is why it's frustrating me so much, I thought I found abit of an issue, went to solve it and it's not dropping amps anymore.

So... charged the battery in my house on cteck, it held for 3 days on full charge, put it in the car, 24hours later.. no starty.

So pretty sure my battery is good,

I've been doing drain tests today, multimeter on 10amps between the neg terminal and neg wire, I'm getting -0.14 drain. So too much.

It's weird that its literally come out the blue suddenly having a drain, I've done nothing to the car and theres no aftermarket head unit or anything. Anyway. I pulled all the fuses 1 by 1, and nothing it's still at -0.14, I did the fuses next to the battery aswell as the fuses below the steering wheel.

I disconnected the alternator aswell to see if that was drawing but no.

I'm completely and absolutly lost now..

I cleaned both terminals and wires for good battery connection... I've looked at the left and right side earth to chassis connection they look good.

Any ideas guys. Its proper pissing me off now as I cant find anything wrong and I really need my car.

Appreciate any help or ideas guys.

Cheers.

Cheers guys, I did think its probably too low, but I also thought it's a good bosch s4 or s5 6month old battery, it started fine everyday apart from today for some reason. 

Anyway just jumped it and started straight up, drove it for 20mins, got back, it's at 14.4 whilst running so alternaters working, turned off and it's at 12.68 so plenty in the tank. I'll see what it's at in the morning to see if theres a drain for some reason. If so I'll take battery out and recon it on my ctek.

Hi, went to start my 04 350 this morning not had problem in 2 years and all I get Is a click.

Turn key, all lights come on, pump primes, press clutch, turn key to start and it just clicks once.

I can hear the pump priming, I've tested the clutch switch, and now bypassed it temporarily. The internal voltmeter is half on the 12v line. Multimeter on terminals says its 12.14, so maybe a touch low? Its a new s4 or s5 battery in march, ive cleaned both terminals and connectors.

I'm guessing it's the starter possibly?? But would it go from working no problem to absolutely nothing, broken??

I've tried rocking it in gear but I am on my own.

Its pissing with rain at the min so dont want to be crawling under to test voltage on starter and whack it with a hammer.

Any help or advise would be great.. it's my daily so need it sorted asap.

Cheers guys

@Adrian@TORQEN

Thanks for the diagram but the pipe I need isnt on there, I believe it's a oil cooler/warmer pipe?? Its definatly got coolant in it.

It connects at the oil filter housing pic1, goes from rubber to the metal pipe I need pic 2, then the metal pipe runs under all the pulleys, then under the aircon condenser, then up between the engine and condenser and connects back to a rubber hose beneath the pipe you have for sale.

So changing the belts on my 04 Z and tapped this metal coolant pipe, its proper crusty so cracked straight away. It goes from the oil filter across and up behind the alternator.

Does anyone know what it's called?? Or where to find part number etc so I can buy a replacment.

Cheers guys.

Found the thread...

So my DE is using oil like 70% of them out there. Though mine is pretty thirsty at 700ml/1k with 5/30

Anyway.. I'm going to go 10/40 now..

The question is.. I have always used castrol edge in my cars.. I'm sure I've read a thread on here were someone said they used a fuchs oil it was fine, then went castrol edge and it started using it, then back to fuchs and was fine again. 

I have read even with other cars that some castrol oils are thinner/burn more than other oils even though the the same weights have been used.

Can anyone tell me from experience  what oils burns less than Castrol??

I'm sure the thread said titan fuchs, theres a few different titan fuchs to choose from though.

Any experiences or knowledge would be great.

Thanks..

Do you have a wheel nut locking key by any chance. If I take a pic of my lockers??

Cheers

1 hour ago, matt89 said:

 

Yes the Rays Black Nuts fit the stock wheels I had.

I've sent you a PM to discuss further.

Thanks,

Matt.

Ill pay half If you could split?? I need the locking nut key and standard 4 bolts. 

I need to get rid of the lockers and I've lost the key.

I pmed regarding the coilovers, hopefully I was quick enough for 1st dibs. If you could let me know if I was fast enough that would be great.

Cheers

I will be looking to organise something in a month or so round the bolton by bowland area. Meet up near clitheroe, lancashire and drive on some twisties. Just waiting for things to relax a little. I've organised quite few over the years. 

5 hours ago, Shunter8 said:

I’ve got a pair of each size spacers here, both 2nd hand sets but never got round to using them myself as I went with aftermarket wheels. 
350Z is now moved on and they’re no use to me on the Stagea. Will grab some pics and details later today/tomorrow morning on the 25mms as they’re in the garage. 
 

20mm Eibachs as pictured below: 

 

 

 

 

 I've PM'ed mate.

Cheers

Hi, I'm after a set of 20mm and 25mm spacers also after some coilovers, please let me know if you have anything.

Cheers

Rob

Thanks guys, looking at getting the torqen spacers although itl be a few weeks till there in stock. If anyone 1 has any second hand spacers or coilovers that would be great, let me know.

Cheers

Rob

Its standard appart from a scorpion backbox. I believe it's been a members car for near the last 10 years.

So now I'm after some spacers... what's the best size?? (I've forgotten what were on mine) it will be lowered on springs and is on standard Ray's. I read 20mm front and 25mm rear is the widest you can go without rubbing. Is that true?? Or should I go 15 front 20 rear?? 

Cheers guys... Hopefully get chance to organize another Z meet now I'm/shes back in the fold 

So I had a silver 350z for 3 years ago, i ended up selling it and getting an e46 m3, which I love and has now turned into a track car over the last 3 years.

My girlfriend loved the Z big time and drove it quite often. Since selling it she has always wanted her own. Anyway three years later, last friday I treat her and PX her mx5 and put the rest to, to get her a Z... she is absolutely beaming.  Heres a quick pic on friday when we collected it...

I had this on mine, I just got a file and filed like half a mm off the brake pad metal backing plate to allow them to slip easier and not bind. 

On 27/11/2020 at 07:51, Irn Bru said:

I may be doing another road trip weekend event next year  but C19 is still going to be the deciding factor, guess its a watch this space for the time being. Where in Scotland are you ?

I hope you do bud, last years was brilliant.

Theres a spray called spidex that keeps spiders away and stops them making webs, a mate is a security camera fitter and uses it around the cameras and says its brilliant

That's nothing to be worried about mate, new tyre, new bulb and a suspension arm that's it.

£400 max, and thats paying someone to do it,

2nd hand good condition bearing and suspension arm/Bush off zman, then tyres can be anything from £40 - £200 depends what you want. Get on ebay and get a pair of used decent tyres for cheap.

If the Bush/arm and bearing are that bad It must have been making a horrible racket for a long time, how did you not notice?? 

Tyres down to the cords.. cars need to be maintained you know. 

If you keep up with maintenance through the year doing little bits here and there you dont end up with big bills like this in 1 go  Although this is only a small bill to be honest and you were thinking of scraping... 

New pads and discs all round are 700ish, 4 new tyres 400ish, then the rust... These aren't cheap cars you can just beat on and forget about. It's not a peasant pergeot where parts are cheap as chips 

Really happy to be fair.. it's gone shiney glass like again, I've got some scholl s30 and panel wipe on order, should be here by Wednesday. Gunna go over the megs with scholl then panel wipe the side I did with the g3 and megs and scholl that side.

Thanks for the advice @ilogikal1

Heres after 3 passes with megs ultimate compound...

Heres before polishing..