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Rob350

Regional Event Organiser
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Posts posted by Rob350

  1. 16 minutes ago, ilogikal1 said:

    On a Z, I’d always stick with foam pads unless wet sanding, even then I’d try heavy cut foam pads before stepping up to wool pads.

     

    in terms of cut, it also depends on the pad; on a moderate cut pad (say Lake Country tangerine pad, for example), I’d  say S30+ is a 3, Megs 105 (Ultra Cut Compound) is about a 8 - about the same as Scholl S20 Black. Megs 205 (Ultra Finishing Polish) is about a 4.

    Those numbers would drop down one each on a Crimson pad though as that itself has a lighter cut.

     

    To simplify matters, my recommended 2 stage polish on a neglected Z would typically be S20 on Tangerine pad for heaviest cut (I would never see the need to go any higher than this without severe paint defects) down to S30+ on a Tangerine pad for finishing - but S30 on Tangerine or S20 on Crimson for a mid-way level of cut. 
     

    So for fresh rattle can paint that just needs to be polished up, I’d suggest starting with S30+ or 205 on a Lake Country Hydrotech Crimson pad, worked thoroughly with sufficient passes, wiped down to check the finish. If there’s little to no improveKent, step up to S20/105 on a (fresh/clean) Crimson pad and repeat. If you still need to, then step up the pad to Tangerine and repeat.

     

    Definitely should have asked this sooner, but I’ve just realised I had assumed! Did you use rattle can lacquer or 2k?

    I used rattle can lacquer, also it's on an e46 m3.

     

    So I'm thinking I may use the megs ultimate compound on a foam pad to start, see how that goes, then get some scholl s30 to finish.

     

    Hows autoglym super resin polish for a finish instead of scholl??

     

    The car is a light silver grey in colour, I'm also not after a 100% perfect finish as the silver colour makes the swirlies barely noticable. I'm just after bringing back the glass glossy shine.

  2. 7 minutes ago, ilogikal1 said:

    Depends how bad it is really. If you’ve got reasonable results with G3 it doesn’t sound too bad, but pictures would help. As a rule, after any paint I’d recommend claying (for overspray) before polishing anyway.

     

    Worst case scenario, wet sand (but carefully as aerosol lacquer will be horribly thin) with 2500 (or finer) and then a 2 stage polish with something medium-to-heavy cut finishing with a light cut compound on foam pads.

     

    Best case, lightest cut polish/pad combo possible to get the job done. 

     

    Scholl polishes are my go-to, with S30+ being a great finishing polish. Wool pads are heavy cut so I would always go with foam and only step up if you absolutely need to.
    I’d always advise an IPA wipe down after polishing to check actual results, which will remove any fillers or oils masking any remaining issues.

    Thanks illogikal, I was hoping youd come to save the day :D

     

    I clayed the whole car today and that made it 10× better, it left the lacquered area feeling smooth (not glass smooth) but like sanded smooth or original paint that needs a really good clay.

    I thought I'd see what the g3 would do and It came up really shiney and glass like smooth so I dont think it's bad enough to need wet sanding.

     

    I'll get some pics tommorow morning in the sunlight to help.

     

    But for now would you reccomend the s30+ on a foam pad? With it being a light cut polish, if I do need to go a little bit deeper I could use the woolly buffing pad.

     

    Also to help me understand the cutness of different products... on a scale of 1 to 10 say, (1 being finishing polish and 10 being wet sand)

     

    If Scholl s30 would be 1, where would the megs ultimate compound be on the scale of 1 finishing polish and 10 wet sanding??

     

    I really appreciate the help, straight from someones mouth instead of trailing threads and discussions getting confused on polished bliss lol

  3. Sorry for the long post but I'm trying to explain where I'm at.. cheers

     

    So I repainted the rear arches, only about 20mm around the flat arch edge. Colour match is good but as I sprayed the lacquer coat i tried to blend to the rest of the arch, anyway it has now made the arch like a matt finish.

     

    It feels smoothish to touch but not glass like the rest of the car. It almost feels like it needs a good clay bar and you can hear the roughness when you wipe your hand over it.

     

    On one arch I used farcella g3 scratch remover paste on a buffing pad which has made it glass like smooth and shiney again.

     

    My question is... I'd like to use a proper polish to make it shiney glass like, what polish should I get?? Also should i use the fluffy buffing pad or proper foam polish pad???

     

    The g3 paste has done a brilliant job but I think it's full of fillers like a glaze so if I deep clean the car again I'll be left with matt arches again and have to reapply the g3 paste everytime I deep clean the car.

     

    I'd like to properly polish it so if/when I deep clean the car again in a year or so I wont be left with matt looking arches.

     

    I hope you understand. I've got some Maguires ultimate compound, I've read about some 105 or 205 polish maybe??

     

    Any advice would be great, there are soooooo many different brands and products of polishes etc it can get confusing on which is best for my application.

  4. This is a build series done by some American youtubers, Throtl. It shows them figuring out, mocking, fabbing and fitting up the Tesla drive train on 350, I think it's crazy the fact that you literally can fit anything to anything within reason with some metal and welding skils (and money) They are also fitting a genuine liberty walk 350 to 370 front end conversion wide body kit. This is going to be a crazy car. I kind of like the 370 front end aswell. These are the 3 episodes so far...

     

     

    Part 1

     

    Part2

     

    Part 3

     

  5. I put one on, after 6 months I were sick of tapping the wiper myself so i cut out round the sensor, to be honest it really doesn't look that bad.

     

    Stick your strip on then see how you go, you can always cut the sensor out after if need be

  6. I went there for the 1st time a few months ago, and got caught out having to use the overflow car park. There was plenty of scraping and funny looks off people walking by lol I thought it was very good for the entry price, had a go on all sorts of arcade games and went on the vr rally driving simulator for abit, I think we were there for around 2 hours.

  7. I'm a big fan of all the hoonigan vids, they get alot of access to cool events and vehicles. Larry chen is brilliant at what he does. The scumbagary is brilliant from all the guys. I enjoyed the 1st 2 series of build and battle, though everyone knew each other so the banter was good.

    • Like 1
  8. We've started a whatsapp group for northwest members to share car pics, stories, organise local little meets or drives and just general car talk between northwest car enthusiasts.

     

    It makes it easier and quicker to organise last minute drives, meets and routes. I.e you can ask on a saturday morning if people wana join you on a drive out and within minutes you could get a couple of buddies to tag along with you.

     

    It also makes it easier for when I organise my big meet and drives out 3 or 4 times a year as some members don't check the forum regularly so miss out on opportunitys etc. I'll still post the drives on the forum but it is easier to communicate on whatsapp.

     

    At the minute there is about 9 members from Leeds to Blackpool, lancaster to Cheshire, this group page is for members of this Z forum and the bmw M forum (I now own an M3, sorry guys lol) so it will be a good mix of cars and people.

     

    If any of you want to join in pm me your number and I'll add you in.

     

    Cheers

    Rob

    • Like 1
  9. Currently getting a few people together for a drive out around the Yorkshire Dale's if anyones interesed??

     

    It's being organised for 8th sept, meet at 9 30am, set off at 10am from mitton hall, clitheroe.

     

    If people are interested, let me know below and I'll post up the route etc.

     

    It's being organised by a friend on the bmw M forum.

    Would be nice to get some Zeds there also showing some style B)

     

    Cheers

  10. Really easy...

    -buy an oil syringe pump...

    -Remove fill plug (to make sure you can fill it before you drain it)...

    -Remove drain plug, drain, put drain plug back in...

    -Suck oil up in syringe and pump into fill hole until the oil starts come out the fill hole...

     

    Just Google recommended oils, some say only nissan, some say save some Penny's and get redline or Castrol equivalent, use some friction modifier in gearbox if notchy

     

  11. I bought this exact same kit last year before going on a euro trip, luckily not had to use it yet though but glad to see it works well.

     

    Not sure I'd like to use the tyre afterwards though I have ad08rs and use them on track but atleast it would get me home etc.

  12. This happened to mine, I found a drain coming from my stereo, never ended up doing anything about it just made sure I started it within every 2 days. I'd checked the alternator was charging and battery was good, and they were. 

     

    Then after a month or two my alternator went caput. Changed the alternator for a 2nd hand one off zman and everything was good after. My car would last a good 2weeks before my stereo drain meant I couldnt start it.

     

    So I think when my alternator was on it's way out it wasnt charging the battery to max and was causing funky problems.

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