GodISmE

My fav HR build thread worldwide these days! Can't wait for more  Good job Martin!

Hey man, glad to see you finishing the build that we've talked about so much a while ago!  I have a few questions for you, I'll pm you. Need a bit of help with mine.

I'm thinking about installing that VDC delete box. Does it really remove ABS entiely? I've tried to remove it once and I was locking  the tires a lot!

Can you adjust front to rear braking bias with this thing? My front calipers keep overheating and the rear pads last for a ling time - even 2-3 front brake pad changes, so there is something wrong.   

 I I'm on 20/9kg and it still feels too soft at the front!  Brian Lock is on 26/11 in his 370z race car. 

How's your engine build by the way? I finally got my hands on used PPE headers and I will be doing a custom CAI soon. Hoping to hit well over 400hp with those!

Damn that rally  370z has LOTS of traction. Amazing. Where can I find the car specs?

Finished my new NA engine build a few weeks ago  Around 412 hp (crank) with stock intakes and headers for now. Should be over 430hp with PPE and custom made CAI. VHR bottom, my old HR heads, 280/272 Tomei cams, lightweight CP pistons and compression increased to 1:11,6. What are your plans ?

It's the yaw sensor you're looking for guys  If you install a switch,  TC and VDC/ESP stays off until you turn the engine off and back on.

BTW. Do any of you know the guys running UK Time Attack? E.  g. Simon Slade? 

I made this little switch Works like a charm and I can't imagine driving on a track with this thing on 

@350Butcher your beefed up steering wheel is on a wrong side mate! ;P

As far as my engine mods are concerned, I've ordered Tomei 272/11,3 (i) / 272/11 (e) cams, Mike Upton's 3" intakes with velocity strack filters and Z1 shorties. If my buddy Coobcio Garage - our national treasure that builds 4.0L NA hr and 4.3L NA vhr - gives me a good deal on 3,7L, I'll probably go for it!

I am organising this little series over here (www.timeattackpoland.pl) for the first time and I could use some proper engine mods and aero to show off my ride! We're like 10 yrs beind you guys! (www.timeattack.co.uk)

Savanna's car is my benchmark (except for the engine swap)

Just the fronts (AP Racing)? I am waiting for that 3.7L now!  

I was complementing your dyno results there and the fact that the curve goes up to the end and does not go down after 6500rpm

Yes, factory squerties were deleted for clearance but the custom made connecting rods have channels that let oil flow to the pistons (not sure what the technical term is for that).

Ratio is 1,592.

I am thinking about this too but I just can't justify the cost of it. 

3,7L is easier and cheaper but I have a feeling that I will be thinking about 4.0 sooner or later so why not go for it now. This tuner said that if he was to do it again, he would use the crankshaft from GTR to get to 3.8L and increased it to 4.15L by widening the cylinders and using different pistons.

Whay do you think? What parts are needed to do the 3,7L conversion? Will you be buying new crankshaft and rods from 370z?

18 hours ago, 350Butcher said:

 

Not heard of this mate, did a bit of looking and seems its based on the DE more so wont really work with HR heads etc so not as easy as the 3.7 conversion. Sounds like a good build though, would like to know how your friend gets on with that though. Share some links when its up and running!

Becasue he's probably the first and only person that built such an engine. It's HR block, pistons and heads with Pathfinder's crankshaft and custom made rods with oil channels.

Up and running well already  

PS. Note that stock HR is usually 290-293hp at his dyno.

http://forum.nissanklub.pl/index.php/topic/104200-funlady-z-350z-by-h8r-with-hr/page-5

Go for 4.0L straight away! Not much more expensive and you'll get close to 400 bhp. My tuner has just built such an engine for one of my buddies: rebalanced crankshaft from 4.0L Pathfinder, custom made connecting rods, JWT cams, deleted oil squerties, 12.2:1 compression. 

You will want more spring in front after a few track days. I have 14/6 kg right now and the car is getting soft. Thinking about switching to 18/9kg next year. 

Those  red springs are a lot longer compared to my Swifts!

https://www.flickr.com/photos/140723002@N05/shares/g69h2Z

What an awesome weekend! The car is now perfectly set up for this track  Engine and brakes are still stock but I think 8:10 is possible with less mistakes, more experience and a bit more luck.  

@350Butcher @WillisRR When are you hitting the RIng? 

16 hours ago, matt89 said:

A warm/hot idle should be 30psi plus. Below that you almost definitely have a failed gasket of some sorts and should start budgeting for a replacement when you can. Below 15psi you should probably stop spirited driving and take it to a garage asap as you could be starving the cams of oil and your gasket will probably habe deteriorated. 

 

You dont take the engine out as one person mentioned before but you do take the front off so it's not an easy job for a home mechanic (unless you seriously know what you're doing)

 

You're looking at 6-8 hours labour (mine was 7.5 as it was the first HR they'd done) and around 200-600 in parts depending on what you change. I had everything changed except actual timing chain as it wasn't stretched but it could have been with such low oil pressure so was a nice surprise when my bill was a bit under the quote. 

Listen to this guy! 

Easy fix... get on with it and be happy it's the only ****- up with these engines!!!

On 9/5/2017 at 13:49, zippypooz said:

Although as standard theyre pretty even performance wise.

Are you for real or just trolling? No, they are so not even in performance, not to mention the engine build and technology used! 

20 hours ago, 350Butcher said:

the question is are the 370z brakes worth upgrading to?

 

Not suggesting there aren't better available, there are definitely better brakes on the market that will offer more power, better cooling and  lighter weight from the likes of ap, performance friction and alcon and for heavy track use my opinion is that these are better to put your money in to. Budget upgrade I still think you're better off sticking with stock brembos and spending money on discs, pads, fluid, ducting etc rather than just stock 370z items for same money as upgraded brembos would perform better for same cost. 

 

from what you've written do you think the 370z brakes would stop you boiling the fluid? No.......I don't think they would. They are expensive and they are heavier and I've not seen anyone say they are noticeably more powerful. Your issue seems to be boiling fluid not loss of power from the brembos. What fluid are you using?

 

ive never boiled fluid to the point of losing the pedal but I have had  pad knock off which is frightening (on previous car) and I do think you get a bit of that with the brembos actually as the biting point does seem to move ever so slightly down the pedal sometimes but it's there when you get there

You brake early based on your videos and you can still push the car a bit more. 

The problem with Brembos is lack of heat dissipation (small discs) and used Akebonos are the cheapest solution. Of course there are better options like st40 or st60. I myself will have to make this choice next year and I still don't know which kit to get. 

Front Brembos are not enough for heavy track driving. Michael Gardner has a really light car and he probably does only 2 to 3 hot laps per session. For that OEM Brembos might be fine.

I have brake ducts, good pads, braided lines and good fluid and I had had no problem with the brakes until I started to really push the car and drive at a limit for more than just a couple of laps. I was just boiling the fluid and the pedal was getting soft but I never had typical pad fading issues. Just need to pump the pedal on straights to bring the fluid pressure up which is annoying. Similar to pad knockback but a lot worse.

There is a reason why 370z has bigger discs! Akebono upgrade is the cheapest option and you only really need to do it with the front calipers.

I still don't know what you two are talking about lol  Yeah, the front vs. rear ratio I get but how do we calculate the wheel frequency and what is the motion rate about? I'd like to understand the physics and the math behind it!

Are you getting sway bars too? 

I think that 18/9 could be ok for more experienced drivers - on a flat and fast track and with proper aero. Definitely not the right time for me as this is still my first year with 350z and actually with a track car  

I will try 18/9 one day as I already have 9's for the rear  

@MeisterR care to share the math behind that model? I was always wondering what that whole wheel frequency is about but I never had time to learn it. Is there a formula to calculate the right spring rates for a given car weight/tire combo?

On 7/11/2017 at 22:03, 350Butcher said:

I've been talking with Motion Control Suspension in the States this week and their upper recommendation for spring rates for fast road with track use is 14/9.

 

When I your post before I thought 18 fronts would be too hard and it seems 6 on the rear would be on the soft side from what MCS have said. With the 'Ring in mind, which I know you're looking at, too hard a setup is gonna hurt your time as with the surface there and riding the curbs etc is could knock the car off line and be a handful!

 

I'm no expert but this is just my opinion. Every driver is different with different styles and preferences so its always going to be quite a personal decision but I think it would be a good setup.................its what I'll be ordering anyway!

Be careful with that Martin. Stance also recommended 14/9 to me (Swift springs on their Supersport coilovers). It was ok until I started to really push the car on tracks and drive at the limit.  I found the car extremely loose, especially at corner entry which resulted in a few near spins at a high speed. If it wasn't for my sim experience and knowing how to save it at the last minute, I would probably end up in a wall.

Only now with shocks set up to full hard (front) and almost full soft (rear), wider tires at the back (275/35/18 vs 255 at the front) and a removed rear sway bar have I found a relatively good balance. But this is addressing the symptom instead of the root cause. That's why I want to get the balance right with the springs now and put the rear sway bar back on to get some balance setting options. I've already ordered 6kg srpings and I'll start with 14/6. Michael Gardner uses this combo and he seems to be doing quite well

But aero will "add some weight", won't it?

Hey, I'm wondering whether I should go with a rather safe 14/6 or with 18/9? Swift springs on Supersport Stance true coilovers.

The car weighs about 1400 right now. No aero yet but I will be adding it in future. Maybe also removing some more weight to get down to 1350 kg.