mr v6

Watching with interest. I too want some paint doing.

Start off with a fine grade good branded clay bar, not a £3 Chinese one. If you find it's not moving it as well as you'd like you'll need to step up to a medium grade. The higher the grade you go the more chance of you inflicting paint marring, then you'll need a 'professional' (not a £65 one) machine polish to get it out & back to the level of correction you'd like. Usually when I do machine polishing for someone I start earlyish & work right through with no breaks to get the job done.

It all depends on what level of perfection you want.

Today was the first chance I've had to tart the bodywork up on the Z. It'll get a full correction by machine by myself in the spring next year, so todays job was a quick one. The car needs some specs of road tar removing along with a good claying as you can feel it's not as glassy smooth as I'd usually like it to be. I'll need a full day with no interruptions to get it machined.

Wash with Autosmart Duet & dried with an Uber XL towel. Quickly polished with AG SRP then waxed with Fusso Coat Soft99 light wax. Wheels cleaned with Valetpro Bilberry then sealed with Poorboys wheel sealant, finally tyres dressed with Meguiars Endurance gel & the excess wiped off to prevent sling. Windscreen deep cleaned on the outside with Duragloss 755 Nu-glass as it has a lot more bite than finer glass polish, the windscreen had a lot of water marks, which have now pretty much gone. Rear exhaust boxes & tailpipes polished with Mother Mag & aluminium polish.

Hope you like!

Cheers guys. So where does everyone else fix / tie or clip the excess wiring to?

Got this fancy piece of kit installed after work, had to do it from above as a few of the bolts on the undertray were pretty rusty. How have you guys (and girls nowadays ) managed with the excess wiring? I managed to cable tie a bit of it around the fan shroud, but the rest I cable tied to the ARB as I didn't want it flapping about & coming in contact with the belts.

Also, my Z has always run at normal operating temperature as the needle has been just below the halfway mark. This is still the case, but now I can hear the fans operate whereas before I couldn't. I'm guessing that's because a: one of mine was failing & b: the OEM fans are much quieter in operation.

Heaters are all fine & giving loads of heat. I did around 40 miles after work so it's properly bled. The overflow tank, do I have this right, I thought it was to catch any excess coolant that the radiator doesn't need, so I refill via the radiator? Or should I have refilled the overflow tank? If it's the latter, how does the coolant go uphill to the radiator?

Blue in colour with a private plate on S66 something or other, clockwise between J9 & J10, I was in lane 3 sat in a bit of rugby traffic.

I was looking so forward to connecting my phone upto this when I first got my Z. It disconnects after a few seconds. I contacted THB Bury in Germany & they said the Z's device uses stack 3 bluetooth, whereas most new phones now use stack 4, hence why they disconnect after a few seconds. I did reply asking them if they're going to do a firmware update or would be willing to update mine if I sent it to them, they very politely said there won't be any updates. I then removed it all in favour for more storage space.

I just brake check them to find out

It's one of those situations where you notice it & accelerate a little to create a reasonable gap, and the driver behind in their pokey 1.6 diesel or VAG Tdi lump immediately do the same as if it's a competition. I can be very hot headed when driving in situations like this & have in the past just stopped in the middle of the road & got out of the car 'to have a word'. In most cases immediately after there's the safe distance gap behind I was hoping to see. It seems a lot of people nowadays don't leave a decent gap in anticipation for a hazard in the road or an emergency stop.

Just a little rant I felt the need to get off my chest .

One thing I hate is people that drive right up your hoop. What I've found in the Z is that drivers behind 'appear' to be driving very close, yet in the wing mirrors they don't appear to be as close as they do in the RVM (it still makes me uncomfortable). Is this because you can't see the bootlid through the RVM, or is the glass angled ever so slightly giving the impression I'm being tailgated?

This appears to be anything from shonky Vauxhall Astra diesel vans, to these Citroen Cacti with their silly fairy lights? Not forgetting anything Germanic either .

Can I order a pair of black ones please?

(I blame these traders for my extra spending.. Please stop.. No don't..)

Middle aged lady driving past Kelloggs factory as I was heading the other way. Sorry no reg though .

Interesting as I'll be doing mine on Saturday. Am I right in thinking the Z has puller fans due to their location? Also, Mishimoto say you can reverse the blades depending whether it's puller or pusher operation, so are they setup correctly out of the box?

Welcome to the club fellow northerner .

Thanks to all at CM, after a few phonecalls yesterday & a couple of emails, I received my new Mishimoto fan assembly within 24hrs. Warranty company has already paid me for it .

I need to replace one (or both at the same time if the price is right) cooling fan. I've looked on ebay & other sites & see Mishimoto sell a shroud for around the £180 mark for a pair. If I go on their site they're all laid out in sizes individually. If I look at the Z it shows them as being a 12" slim fan, so if I buy just the 12" slim fan will it fit the factory housing?

Looking to do this without spending a silly amount of money.

On hold with these for now, I need to replace the cooling fan first which is more of a priority. I got the prices through work .

Since getting the Z home there was a horrbile knocking from the n/s/f area. At first I thought perhaps it was the ball joint on the upper arm. I had it on the ramp in work today balancing the front wheels & myself & a tech noticed how bad the rear bush was on the banana arm.. It decided to part company with it. The knocking I was hearing was the arm hitting the subframe. I'm now on the lookout for a replacement bush.

I've just had the parts guy double check his numbers & you're right. I don't know what part of "main stop / tail light in the rear 1/4" is difficult to understand. I specifically told him not the slim ones in the bumper.

I seem to have 2 other numbers now, thanks to Shezza for his, I have 26555-CF40A & 26550-CF40A. I've Googled around & this seems to match up, still a good buy at £82.34 each.

Say what! Are you talking about the actual rear lights? Not indicator/reverse clusters? Any chance you could get me some too at that price!?

Yes, the red led main stop / tail light in the rear 1/4. They're genuine Nissan parts, boxed as such. I just need to check if these are the correct version. I could order them & check when they arrive, if they're not I can just send them back within the allowed time frame.

I priced up a pair of the original Nissan led rear lights up in work using the reg of a Z on ebay. With us having Nissan in the group I can buy each of them in for £56.34 each. What I'm reading is there appears to be a couple of versions, one being plug & play, the other not.

The part numbers I've been given are: LH 26550-CD41A & RH 26555-CD01A.

If anyone can shed any light on this for me.

Being the club secretary on another forum I know how annoying it is when someone asks the obvious stuff. Being a noob & searching around, it's still unclear to me after a lot of searching & reading mixed reviews & posts on various cables..

My Z is a 2005 & has the Bose with amp. I have a lovely Pioneer single DIN with bluetooth, all the bells & whistles. I'd like to fit this to my Z. My previous Pug 406 Coupe had a very complicated JBL amp set up that had no available adapater / lead conversion kit. unless you rewired the whole speaker system with ISO blocks & new wires.

I'd like to fit the Pioneer into my Z & have as much functionality as possible. I understand I may lose the answer call button, but that's no big deal as the answer button is on the head unit anyway.

I'm looking for simple answers here. What cable would I need to perform this to get it all up & running?

I figured they went on the shaft the space it up so the writing lines up when it's tight. Looks awesome, feels so much better in the hand during gear changes than the original design. What were Nissan thinking there?

Thanks once again Mark .

Just received mine, awesome quality! But where do the 3 rubber washers go??

Passed me heading into Flixton as I was heading out. I assume a HR as it had the bonnet bulge instead of the grooved one.

I bought a re-branded Brembo caliper from Brakes Int'l under their name of Budweg: http://brakeparts.co.uk/#!/shop/NISSAN/350Z/03-/350Z%203.5%20V6%20PETROL/Rear%20-%20Brake%20Calipers%20and%20Wheel%20cylinders/BCA4155

You'll need to call for availability though on the Z. It was a perfect fitment on my 406 V6 Coupe though, I just needed to put the Brembo sticker on it & give it a few coats of clear lacquer & you'd never know the difference.