wilo

hi guys iv started taking the baffles out of my milltek resonated end cans.

 

iv managed to remove the shiny donut pieces and have cut one baffle back half way .

 

is there a tool or way of cutting them out easier than tearing and bending chunks off with pliers ?

 

i cant take the car to a garage at the moment due to the interior been stripped for reflocking .

 

tried a dremil with cutting disk and it barely scratched it and cant get an angle grinder in the 4" cans .

 

any tips or advice appreciate

@Colesl4w: it makes sense to me, but then again I've done exhaust noise development at work with Bentley. The baffles will be tuned to work with the cladding so that the frequency of the sound is within the right range for the cladding to absorb the noise. It's about managing the size and mixing of the vortex structures and preventing the strongest structures from propagating out of the exhaust tip. So without anything there, there's nothing impeding the acoustic waves coming from the exhaust and it will be louder, particularly at low frequency since the baffle will disrupt longer wavelengths.

just went to have a look at doing the same to mine ..but cant work out where to start .

 

did you just bray a hole in the perforated part inside them get the pliers in and rag it out ?

 

also whats holding the big shinny concave donut thingy at the pipe in ? is this welded or is it the internal structure holding it in place.

 

any help appreciated mate as i dont want to mess this up

Hi Wilo, no, discs arent new, pads are a few months old but only been happening couple weeks, front pads are probably due to be replaced soon

mmm okay not what i thought then .

iv just had new disks but didnt change handbrake shoes so after using handbrake the old shoes were squeaking at slow speeds and more in reverse due to bedding in.

 

iv solved the problem tho .....

 

i just dont use hand break haha

have you had new rear disks fitted just before it started squeaking?

It's up to you but a complete engine overhaul done properly will be expensive and no point replacing parts if there's nowt wrong with them. I reckon at least start with investigating where the oil is going and take it from there mate... Get a leak down test done and see what crops up.

thats where im struggling mate ..cant find anyone local with time and gear to do a leak down test .

 

I had an emissions test done which the guy told me he could get a rough impression of how healthy the engine was by the results but i dont see how an emission test would account for every parameter that governs how healthy or efficient an engine is

 

http://tinyurl.com/j3k4ytf

 

Have a look here - might be useful. Different options out there but just think about what is cost effective. Good luck!

cheers pal ..just had a read through and alot of good info but not sure if its a concise list other than what parts are replaced/cleaned/reground by specific garages doing the work . not a cheap job to say the least either

Probably more cost effective to just replace with a low millage lump from one of the traders on here.

 

Saying that, Bradders re built his recently, he should be able to help you if thats the road you go down.

 

I do recall saying it before and I will say it again, if it aint broke don't fix it. No harm in putting money aside incase the worst happens but fixing something that isn't broke? I wouldn't bother.

yea that quote has been said to me before mate but would rather be preemptive than blow it up through the summer months ...that would be just my luck

its on 132000 and only real problem is excessive oil consumption and intermittent power loss .

cold its fine and very resonsive but once warmed up it seams more sluggish ..and no i dont hammer it cold lol ...but the diffence is very noticeable.

 

and with my prefered driving style i would like the engine to last a few more years if possible ...thats only reason really .

 

also i know these engines are rated for 200000 but i dnt think that includes 200000 with a heavy right foot

iv tried the search function but cant find the info needed so can anyone link me if the information is available please.

 

okay my 2004 DE is quite high mileage but i absolutely love it to bit , so while its off the road through the worst winter months im contemplating having it rebuilt.

 

i have a mechanic friend so labour charges wont be horrendous but im looking for a complete and thorough list of whats needed to be replaced to basically get the engine back to like it was (day one) from factory.

 

i dont think ill be going the FI route but wouldnt mind fitting better suited internals that could cope with frequent hard excceleration and higher revs .

 

Of course, you can add whatever you want, just make sure you have wiring that is up to the task.

cheers bullet .

reason i asked was because i read a post about bose speakers having extra wires or something ...im not technically minded on ICE so struggled to follow the thread properly

Possibly the Bose amp going faulty, might be best to replace it

can the bose amp be replaced by a bigger different brand amp that could run 2 subs

bad pic but only one i have atm of the head unit

 

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

 

 

 

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

 

 

need help please guy's.

i have a 2004 de with bose speakers and sony double din head unit .

 

now while the sound from the speakers is fine ...if i go into settings on the head unit and select the rbe base settings (1-3) i gain the base but lose sound to the right side of the car making it sound weird .

 

is this something to do with the bose? and can it be fixed .

Are you interested in a ISIS single?

thanks for the offer and they sound awesome but im a bit OCD on symmetry lol .

im booked in today for a quote at a custom exhaust builder but iv heard they charge ridiculous prices so not holding my breath just yet

If you want loud and good quality then the Buddy Club is a good option

 

http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/106137-350z-buddy-club-spec-3-exhausts-71880-cat-back-loud/

thanks ill keep it mind

primarily looking for a duel but that does sound really nice tbh

unplug and leave for 10mins or so then plug back in and reprogram

thanks buster

looking for something very loud and with a deep tone (not raspy) .

 

not interested in k1 or k2 as i think the end cans look cr4p .

 

can do a swap with my full decat and deresonated milltek system with cash either way .

(still have resonator tho incase needed)

 

would prefer something thats true duel

You running hfc's too?

yea its got APS decats fitted

 

Oh yeah just re-read the 1st post! You could always try it with no back box to get a rough idea! Not too early in the morning though...

 

Good luck but I reckon be sure before you hack it up mate.

yea good idea i may just do this tomorrow afternoon ...the de-res may effect the tone tho

You running hfc's too?

yea its got APS decats fitted

Do they mention what sort of volume they're getting? Don't know about the tone you'll get but surely taking out the muffler is going to give you plenty of noise but this could be an MOT fail? IMHO you'd be better off selling your Miltek and getting a system that suits your needs as it comes mate. Otherwise you might be left with a franken-zorst that you don't like!

Hi ...

one post did mention it made it louder but not stupidly loud like he thought it would .

i also know a very friendly mot dude which helps immensely .

 

and yea i posted a swap add months ago but the guy was to far away to make it a viable swap ..but that would be ideal if it could be done .i absolutely love the tone of the milltek but its just too tame at low revs for me .

okay guys need advice from more knowledgeable people on here please .

 

i have a decatted full milltek system and have recently had the resonator removed and a straight pipe welded in place to gain more noise at lower revs .

 

now while this has worked it has also altered the tone of the exhaust making it more raspy which i dont like .

 

so while browsing some usa forums on the subject i found that alot of them guys leave the resonators in place in favor of removing the muffler ( i presume they mean back box?) .

 

so if i reweld the resonator back and have some pipes made up to replace the milltek back box will this achieve a deeper note at lower revs while not been too raspy .

 

appreciate any advice before i book the car in for more stainless surgery

any one ?

okay just been for a blast and noticed the controller starts at 11% and only goes up to 97% .

 

i had a few issues when fitting it and might of unwittingly set it up this way due to the LED screen not functioning properly at the time .

 

so how do i reset the unit ?

do I just disconnect the battery or does it have an internal battery within the unit ?

 

just need it resetting to factory settings and start again

i posted a thread about this too not long back and wanted to do the same thing but i beleive the problem is.....we need a key to disengage the steering lock .

 

im still thinking of fitting one tho but preoccupied with other things that need attention on the zed first