DeeJayDready

Looking for a set of black Nismo wheel nuts if anyone is looking to move a set on. Ideally looking for the version with the hole in the O (40220-RN810) as opposed to the solid circle (40220-RN800), but both considered. Used is fine as long as they're in pretty good nick. Would pay up to £50 if they come boxed etc., but everything considered. Reply or PM me if you have a set of these going spare.

LOL, indeed...

Yikes... It's crazy there isn't a UK-based distributer available to avoid all that nonsense.

I think I'll have to pass. They do look good fitted by the looks of things. But £80 is the price of a brand new set from Nengun, and they'd be the version with the hole in the O (40220-RN810) rather than the solid circle (40220-RN800), which for consistency reasons I would prefer. Couldn't see me paying more than £50 for a set of wheel nuts (even new ones) to be honest, it just seems crazy... But if anyone is looking rid of a set of these in decent nick (ideally the 40220-RN810 style) for £50, let me know. Anyone know what the deal is with the two different Nismo logos in general?

Yeah, if you could check the length. I wouldn't want the long length ones as presumably they'd stick out. I'm still in two minds to be honest. I don't mind the current ones to be honest. But I do have a feeling those would look nice. How much would you want for them?

Are those the 34mm 'standard length' or the 50mm 'long length' set? Is one of them different? (i.e. doesn't say 'nismo' on it)

Yeah, that'd probably look pretty tidy alright. I imagine the black would stand out less and would show off all the centre holes better. Do you have a pic of what they look like fitted on standard LMGT4 G35 wheels? If @ZMANALEX or someone had a spare set in good nick I could be tempted.

Finally got the underseal done last week, as the weather seemed perfect for it... First I had it thoroughly 'MOT Washed' underneath to get all the crud and concentrated evil out of there. Then took it for a nice spin in the sunshine / baking heat, to dry it out. I bought 5L jerrycans of both the Bilt Hamber Dynax-UB & Dynax-UC, so there was plenty to work with. When all was said and done there was still a little over half of each jerrycan left (to use on the Hyundai Coupe TSIII next month), so the estimate of about 4L (2L + 2L) per car was about right. The UC drys clear so it was used arches and sills. I think that's what was applied to the box sections and up into any pre-existing drainage holes as well. The UB drys black/brown (and is slightly more durable), so it was used on the main chassis. My guy is genuine and easily paid. It took him about 3½ / 4 hours to prep and underseal the car (i.e. cover up some paintwork, remove the wheel-arch liners etc., get it up on the ramp and apply the wax. £150 for the labour in the end + £101.36 for the Bilt Hamber wax. Pretty happy with that as it seems a good job, and I still have more than enough wax to do the TSIII. Total = £251.36 (with tonnes of wax to spare)

Just a heads up that there seems to be another 50% Off sale on discs & pads at Euro Car Parts at the minute in case anyone is looking.

When I ordered mine from EuroCarParts there was a sale on. Got the lot for £284.47. What that guy's selling costs nearly double that with no guarantee. I'd pass...

Yeah, that's what I went for. These are the proper stock parts. Just note that you need 4 discs, but only 2 (sets of) pads. I initially ordered 4 sets of pads not realising a set covers both driver-side and off-side so had to cancel and reorder.

So, after a fitting that didn't go at all to plan at a local auto electricians, I eventually got sorted by Aaron from 'Source In-Car', formerly of The Iceman, who did a fantastic job in no time. Pretty chuffed with the job and the unit. A quick firmware update and custom wallpaper later, and I'm in business!

1 10170036A Brembo Brake Pad (Front) Nissan 350Z 3.5 2007 1 10180011A Brembo Brake Pad (Rear) Nissan 350Z 3.5 2007 2 10470098A Brembo Brake Disc (Front) Nissan 350Z 3.5 2007 2 10470099A Brembo Brake Disc (Rear) Nissan 350Z 3.5 2007

So today I spoke with a guy from Bilt Hamber, my friend who's used several of their products on his MX-5, and the garage who have the ramps and compressor kit and who'll be doing the work, and I've now ordered up 5L of Dynax-UC and 5L of Dynax-UB. I'm planning on doing my lady friend's Hyundai Coupe TSIII at the same time, hence the 10 litres - the general consensus seems to be that it could take about 8L to do both and given that they only come in 5L jerrycans or 750ml aerosols, that was the way to go... The UC drys clear and supposedly best for the bits you can see like arches and sills, while the UB drys brown is for the main undersides and is even more durable and long-lasting. Fingers crossed it's a good job, but I do feel confident in the product. It seems to have a good track record of kicking ass in any of the accelerated performance tests people have done against a range of similar products (like Waxoyl etc.). Now I just need to discuss how thorough a job will be required. https://www.bilthamber.com/corrosion-protection-and-rust-treatments/dynax-ub https://www.bilthamber.com/corrosion-protection-and-rust-treatments/dynax-uc

So the Pioneer AVH-Z5100DAB that I'd been looking at suddenly appeared on eBay (via Argos) out of nowhere for £308 a couple of weeks ago. Maybe a newer model is about to be launched or something? But prior to that, you definitely couldn't get a new one anywhere for less than £380. Amazon are still selling them for £450. I only spotted it yesterday, and naturally took the bait at that price. Cheers for the tips regarding the cabling folks. I'll let you know how I get on. I may even be best running a USB>lightning AND a 3.5mm Aux lead through to cover the bases? I've an iPhone7, and it looks like it will fit in the elbow cubby nicely with a lead connected. I'll probably want a bit of slack left on the cable(s) anyway, so I can take the phone out and have it in my hand while it's still connected.

So I finally treated the Zed to the alloy refurb! I spoke to Nu Luk & Canavans and got quotes from both over the phone. Nu Luk do a paint + power-coat for £360, or £486 with diamond cut . Canavans was £320 - £360 for power-coat or £560 with diamond cut. To their credit both discouraged the diamond cut option as they just start corroding again straight away, and unless I want to undertake the meticulous weekly job of maintaining them (I do not...), then I'd be better off steering clear. Both places where great to deal with, and for anyone in N.Ireland I'd happily recommend both (as I've had work done at Canavans before), but this time I went with Nu Luk, as much down to the fact that they're closer to Belfast as anything to be honest. Have to say, I'm very pleased with the results. They did a great job on getting the metal back to its best (only the few faintest hints of tiny dimples here and there, but you have to really look for them). And they applied the decals as well. I don't regret my decision not to diamond cut in the slightest. The fact that not diamond cutting them took care of the centre caps as well was a great bonus too.

Still haven't took the plunge on a head unit, but I haven't heard anything major to make me seriously reconsider the Pioneer AVH-Z5100DAB. At this point I image that is what I'll go for... [7" Screen, Apple CarPlay, CD/DVD, etc.] But I'm still looking pointers on connecting to a phone via the (rear mounted) USB cable.... Where do people run their cable to? How was is done? Can it be done without any major damage being caused? Does anyone have any pictures of theirs? I'm hoping the answer is the central cubby at the drivers elbow, as I think that may probably work best. The phone could be connected and tucked away in there, yet still easily accessible when required. There is also already a little hole in there for the bluetooth adapter cables. Would this be a difficult job?

Those look to be an excellent job must say! I just assumed I'd diamond cut again as I want them to look 'stock', but it seems like the difference might be relatively minor. I'll certainly keep that as an option. I intend to get a quote from Nu-Luk Wheels and at least one other place next month. I'll see what options they offer me and at what prices...

Yeah, I've always been a big fan of Sony head units myself. Had heard good things about Pioneer for these touchscreen style units though. I haven't made any final decisions as yet, but the Sony XAV-AX3005db doesn't have a CD/DVD drive; I'll want that option. Point taken on the Apple CarPlay. I think that would be a 'must have' for me. But you need to connect your phone via a USB cable for that. Where did you run your cable to? How was it done?

Anyone have any thoughts on the above? Particularly on handling the USB>Lightning cable. Was hoping to get some pointers on here before taking the plunge and buying the head unit. But now that I've made the decision to go for a screen style unit, I'm eager to get it and get it into the car.

Thanks. I suppose I'll hear out the various places I'm getting quotes from as well to get their take too (biased though they may be..). I do like the sound of 'more durable' though, I must say. Any thoughts from others are also welcome...

I was looking into this again recently. Certainly, as a few people mentioned above, Pioneer seems to be coming out as a very likely candidate. Their AVH-Z5100DAB unit seems to have it all! - 7" touch screen, dvd-player, sat-nav (via Apple CarPlay), bluetooth streaming, USB input. It looks like a really top bit of kit, if rather pricey (£375). Does anyone have any thoughts on this unit? https://www.pioneer-car.eu/uk/products/avh-z5100dab/specifications The USB input seems to be critical to getting the best out of these type of units, but they are almost always rear-mounted (and rightly so to maximise screen size). But where do people tend to run their USB>Lightning cable to? Ideally I'd want it to look discrete, but without having to cut away or damage the interior in the process. Also, these style units appear to be pretty bulky. I presume they can be fitted ok as many others have clear done so. But again, can this be done without cutting anything away? I see that it does say that a Nissan 350Z can take the AVH-Z5100DAB under the 'Fit My Car' tab here, so that seems positive: https://www.pioneer.com.au/shop/car/avh-z5100dab/

Anyone got any thoughts on the pros & cons before I get something done.

Pretty sure I'll end up going for the Bilt Hamber Dynax-UC stuff. It's just how thorough a job to get done it terms of prep etc. I'll have to give that some thought. I'll probably not be getting it done until around April or so, once the weather improves and the salts are of the road etc. Ultimately the guy who'll be doing the job will have some say on that one too...

Well I was told that the Bilt Hamber Dynax-UC wax lasts about 3 years, so not every year no. Why, would you recommend paying more and having a more thorough job done with the wheel arch liners off, sills, suspension arms etc?