MrG13

if you could that would be great! been searching the forum and only seem to be finding people with bad experiences using it but it seems to get excellent reviews other places where I look, especially in recent months... Problems seem to be mostly issues due to bad cleaning prep, which is leading to the lacquer being peeled off when its removed or being a pain to remove as it's not being put on thick enough, and it comes off in small pieces rather than the classic peel, Just out of curiosity (and if you can remember lol) did you remove the wheels and do the inner hub as well or just bag the brakes up and spray from the front with the wheels still on?

I know this is an old thread but thinking of doing my wheels using plastidip. do you still have these or if not, how long did they last and what was the up keep on them?? totally agree with the 'blend in with the brake dust' comment, only had my Z for a few weeks and the wheels have been cleaned almost as much as my own teeth

fair play it looks much better from the top than it did from the bottom! some excellent pictures Here are some from the bottom yesterday! [URL=http://s1299.photobucket.com/user/Dewi-G-/media/WP_20160214_16_57_18_Rich_zpscbiw4rse.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/Dewi-G-/WP_20160214_16_57_18_Rich_zpscbiw4rse.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [URL=http://s1299.photobucket.com/user/Dewi-G-/media/WP_20160214_16_49_47_Rich_LI_zpsupd4moez.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/Dewi-G-/WP_20160214_16_49_47_Rich_LI_zpsupd4moez.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [URL=http://s1299.photobucket.com/user/Dewi-G-/media/WP_20160214_16_57_16_Rich_LI_zpstrv5v9mc.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag75/Dewi-G-/WP_20160214_16_57_16_Rich_LI_zpstrv5v9mc.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

to be fair a few have installed some sort of roll cage behind the seats but I surely hope the windscreen is uber re-enforced! I actually own a MR2, mk2 tho so not the one pictured above, the T-Bar was great last summer but it has slight leaks when hitting it from angles with a jet wash which is never great in old classics....

Ok so today we infact my first official mod day! And it begins with a simple new key fob as the original is a little dated and old school I opted to buy a new 'flip key' which reminds me of old school flip knifes but with a Z at teh end of it instead of a meesly blade! Anyway it's a simple mod and really does make a difference to my keys and looks more up to date to go with my new shiny car So headed into town and got the blade of the key cut by timpsons, as the key was too long for his machine he advised me he would cut it for me but as he cannot guarantee his work and if it doesn't function then he couldn't offer a refund for a new piece he told me he would do it at my own risk and for free! winner! Over all was a simple unscrew this one and that one move the insides of this one into the inside of this one and screw it all back together... Did run into a few problems though, the original key comes with a rubber insert (seen in pictures below) and I could not for the life of me get it to fit into the new key housing and still have the buttons function correctly. I believe its to give some protection against water damage but the new fob came with nothing and I didn't have the heart to start chopping things up until I knew it would all work.... Also the transponder chip in the old key was not glued in so easily popped out with a small flat head and some wiggling, this also had no hole to sit in the new key so I placed it on the opposite side of the key blade and added some double sided tape to secure it and some white foam to ensure if the tape failed it wouldn't move too much. Ten minutes (if that long) later and I now have a brand new flip key that worked first time May install the rubber thing back in at some point but for now here's some pics and honestly this is easier than upgraded to a new stumpy aerial and as we all knows adds at least 25bhp!! Pics below and one of her looking clean after my joy ride with the new key....(any excuse!) Obviously this has nothing to do with the new key but looks pretty so is included

if you are getting both the power and power ant with a high voltage then the headunit should turn on at least, only thing that would stop it is a break in the circuit somewhere, so check fuses, check no pins are missing from the head unit, check the new earth cable you installed and make sure you aren't relying on the one which was installed into the old head unit, if none of that works then I am all out of ideas for now sorry :/

you still got any of these? aaaaaand do they come in a green version?

did you get around to this? any numbers orr......

nothing but lol'z looking good though! I do like a white Z

if you can find out where that plugs back in you should regain power in that case, may be worth peeling back the tape and checking for a break in the wire if you still struggle, if not then use the hot wire technique to cause a constant on for the time being...

never mind all sorted lmao! congrats! now more pix plz haha!

If you use the img link and then just paste that straight into the comments it may work, you don't click the little icon and add the link just paste it where you type, again try to give the computer time to load after the post as it could be a case of slow home internet if you're using chrome already that autoupdates everything so shouldn't be an issue... Test below:

yeah it looks like your browser is old from your pic, I think the quick uploader uses flash so you could try updating that, (cant post a link so just google flash update and use the flash site) but I wouldn't say thats your problem as you get the pop up box so its strange.... I would say either check to see if flash is up to date and update your browser, or download and start using chrome if you need help doing either let us know and we can post a guide but yeah don't throw the laptop as that will mean more funds out on silly things and less on premium fuel for your beast haha!

not to sound like a ninny but how long are you waiting before you refresh the page and what is your home internets upload speed? Maybe its just taking its time to upload as its a big file, to be honest though mine are over 2mb and they are pretty much instant....but could possibly be a cause, also make sure you using an up to date browser to see if that helps....

Well what I found works is: copy the link marked 'Direct' from photo bucket then when posting your reply/comment there is a short toolbar at the top with 'font' 'size' etc, you're looking for the small square icon that looks like a picture of a tree on the bottom row near the middle/middle to right hand side, (I believe its the old clip art symbol from word 98 or something lol!) if you click it then a new small window opens asking you to enter the URL paste the 'Direct link from photo bucket there and hit ok the picture will appear before you post your comment I hope that makes sense....it did in my head anyway :/ test below:

I think the reason for no power is because of the green/white cable which should be the power ant what's the green/white cable actually connected too? It looks like its to a brown connector in your pic and not actually connected to anything, if this is the case then was it from the old head unit or was there another connector behind the stereo that this was attached too? If the above is correct (in ref to the diagrams) and this is your power ant cable then your not going to have power to the unit until this is reading a high voltage, it is normally kept high (3-4volts or sometimes even 12V) but could be a system that trips to on after a short spike of high, (when key is turned high voltage is sent to stereo and then drops back low, head unit reads the spike and switches on) so a) if it is connected to something in the car, wire it back up and see if it goes live at all from no keys to engine running and sat at idle, (and if it does slap yourself for the school boy error and celebrate as you now have power! ) or if it was from the old head unit, (which would confuse me more lol) plug all the old head unit back in and see if there's any voltage from the pin out at this wire, or c) if you can't remember plug in teh new stereo and then remove the purple and black tape of the white/blue and the green/white then wire them together or optionally as a quick test short the pins of the connector block using a piece of wire/paperclip/some fag packet paper, (shiny side up) if you don't feel like stripping and fiddling either way that should get you some power, hopefully....if still no joy check the fuses of the head units them selves, I don't mean to be condescending but some times the old, 'turn off and turn back on' basics get over looked when your heads in a problem and always worth another mention... with the no speaker output it could be first bad wiring of the connector block again (most likely) which you can either use the flip method i mentioned above for the correct output and hope, as that seemed to be the case last time, or simply open up all the speakers and look at what colour wires are connected and pray there isn't anything in between the wires behind the head unit and the speakers which could cause a colour change....and I say simply but secretly mean difficultly as getting to ever speaker is far from simple from what I have seen on other threads haha! again have to mention to triple check the earth, especially when diagnosing and if you're installing your own, if in doubt run along wire straight to the negative on the battery whilst checking just to be sure (although this is major overkill lol) that should keep you busy for a while so let me know how it goes aaand your welcome! ill be running back here when I get around to fitting a new one myself....although I am thinking android tablet in place of all the standard sat nav equipment that is out of date and pretty naff....decisions decisions

And just to add anyone who actual has any clue of what they are doing feel free to churp in as this is guess work by myself so far and I completely admit I am out of my depth but it's all making kinda sense to me.... but yeah OP if you can see if thats how you new loom connects the wires to the new stereo then you should be on to a winner, the only had part should be seeing which wire goes to which speaker but you can check that by looking at the actual speaker connections or attempting to work it out from the connector/socket diagrams above and hoping the colours stay true....strange how its a non-bose tho and those are diagrams for the bose system with matching wire colours...I think the other post did say it was from a JDM car rather than a UK version though so maybe thats where the indifference lies.... Either way don't forget to update us if anything explodes/catching fire/randomly starts working

Were those readings with the ignition turned on/acc/off?? and okay if we cross match what you have compared to the connection explanation found above you would get as follows: 1 orange - 3.5v 1 . black ( front left hand speaker - ) 2 white - 3.5v 2. white (front left hand speaker + ) 3 red - 3.6v 3. red ( front right hand speaker - ) 4 green - 3.6v 4. green ( front right hand speaker + ) 5 green/white -0v 5. green /white ( antenna signal ) 6 blue/white - 3.4v 6. yellow ( perm 12v + ) 7. no connection 7. red/yellow ( illumination signal ) 8 blue/red - 0v 8. red/blue ( lighting switch ) 9 grey - 3.9v 9. shield 10pink/black - 12v 10. blue/green ( 12v + switched ) which would mean there is some discrepancies between the illumination wire and the shield wire as they seem to have swopped on your connector or there just never was an illumination light which is also a possibility if the other head unit just had the lights permanently on... the second block does seem to be all the harness for the harness from the speakers so I would hazard a guess that is why its all negative a no complete circuit would show no voltage drop. if however I put in the connectors from the M40 connector for the bose stereo from the page i referenced last time you then get this: -left front 1 orange - 3.5v +left front 2 white - 3.5v +right front 3 red - 3.6v +right front 4 green - 3.6v +Power Ant 5 green/white -0v +Backup 6 blue/white - 3.4v No connection 7 Illumination 8 blue/red - 0v Earth 9 grey - 3.9v +Ignition 10 pink/black - 12v Which makes more sense as now you have both the illumination and the power ant on zero volts, well I say this as long as you had the ignition not set to acc or on and your lights were off at the time you took the readings lol! As ignition key to acc should show a spike in voltage on the green/white cable and if you turn on your lights you should see a hit on the blue/red cable. Any way from what I can fathom you should be running from this diagram: but then using the colours from this diagram but flip the pins 180 as if you are looking into a mirror as then all the colours seem to match too... EDIT: made spacing around the pin out puts easier to read, copied and pasted from an excel sheet and it all went haywire :/

Loads of info on here as well so give it a read through, also includes connector diagrams for the bose connections but again if you test the wires you may get lucky as it seems to be the same connector types for both bose and non-bose so can't be too much of a huge difference hopefully.... http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/14773-got-the-headunit-out-but-what-is-this-connection/

ok so found this: Hi, the wiring diagram for plug m40 is as follows , looking at the back of the stereo the 10 pin socket is numbered 1-10 starting at the top row of pins ( as you are looking at the back of stereo ) counting left to right 1 3 5 6 7 9 the bottom pins are 2 4 8 10 1 . black ( front left hand speaker - ) 2. white (front left hand speaker + ) 3. red ( front right hand speaker - ) 4. green ( front right hand speaker + ) 5. green /white ( antenna signal ) 6. yellow ( perm 12v + ) 7. red/yellow ( illumination signal ) 8. red/blue ( lighting switch ) 9. shield 10. blue/green ( 12v + switched ) Now I know its not the colours are different to what you have but if you can reverse engineer the wire positions and check with a multimeter then you may get lucky, on top of that I also found this: managed to do a little more work on the car radio tonight. took another look at the wiring diagrams and decided to connect the green and white wire to the output 12+ cable labled "amp" This then powered up the radio booster pack and as a result the radio sprung to life. Good stuff From here: http://www.350z-uk.com/index.php?showtopic=33915 from the looks of the loom you have pictured I would say some one has already linked both the white/blue and green/white which would overide the antenna signal to the constant live to may mean the stereo was on permanently. but if you can swop around the pins on the loom you have purchased you may be able to get it working! Only other thing I would suggest is seeing if the head unit you removed has a pin out sticker or a model sticker so you can google that and then work backwards to what your loom needs to be connected as... Hopefully that will help until someone with a bit more hands on knowledge can join in and give you an exact run down of what to do! haha!

also last but not least check out the build log on here: http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/55445-wiring-in-a-new-hu-this-guide-may-help/ Good luck and let us know if you fix it

Also check this out may help....

Haven't done this myself yet so can't be sure but have you triple checked your new earth connection? if it was working and now it isn't you may have dislodged the new earth connection and the old unit wont work with incorrect wiring so maybe that's the first place to start...

Was just out of Merthyr Tydfil town center, did flash but didn't flash back and was heading into town where as I was heading out....

These are not the Zee's you are looking for.....