Jump to content

JoeSwin

Members
  • Content Count

    52
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

3 Neutral

About JoeSwin

  • Rank
    Z Hopeful

Location

  • Location
    Rugby
  1. I've got another clutch squeak. This time it's coming from underneath the car, so I'm guessing it's the lever into the housing that actuated the clutch, from others posting online? I'm planning on cooper greasing it myself by heading down to Milton keynes to use the rent a ramp place. Has anyne done it before and has a DIY guide or any tips?
  2. Hi mate. I live in rugby but drive to Warwick uni everyday and go past Binley Industrial estate. If you want me to swing by just let me know? Feel free to send me a text on ********** if you need anything. Moderation edit - send telephone number by PM - much safer
  3. I had the same issue with my exhaust heat shield rattling. Turns out it's had completely dropped away corroded from its mountings. Initially put it back on with the massive washers to cover the gap. Now I've just removed completely, no issues with toasty shopping as yet
  4. Hi, All sorted in the end. I re-tightened both the LCA hub end bolts, although they were already tight, and then replaced the Drop links. What I also noticed is the front and mid undertrays and wheel arch liners both had quite a few bolt, push clips missing which could be causing a plastic on plastic knock or rattle. I just used foam pads to fill the gaps. End results is no knocking!! but I would suggest checking all the underbody plastic trims.
  5. Of course, pleas for tomorrow afternoon is Whip it in axle stands and check the torque of the new LCAs. Swap over the ARB links Check torque / tighten the upper link to BIW bolts, as I can see a gap between washer and bracket so thinking all three could be a factor. Is there anything else I should be checking? If there's still a problem Ill just cry surrounded by a pile of tools
  6. Yes both sides changed. Potentially could be the wheel end bolt slightly loosened after a couple of weeks on the road? I'm changing the drop links anyway as they need doing. But I'm not sure whether drop links would give the loose feeling under knocking?
  7. Hi all, Apologies if its another front end knock post. Anyway I just half want to reassure myself that i'm going down the right path and look into any other potential cause. I recently had the front banana arms replaced (with the help of a fantastic forum member) - they needed doing as the bush was out of the arm pretty much.. since then the car feels much better but a front end knock rattle has gradually got worse - could this be drop links??? I've got a new set on order which i'm picking up from the garage this week. However I thought this was more of a creaking noise symptom
  8. Thanks. I used spray grease in the end. Was in the engine bay side of the firewall so didn't expect it to be pedal assembly. Seems to have done the job for now
  9. I'm going to investigate tonight and see if I can stop it with some WD40 to find the issue and then go back in wth proper grease
  10. Will do tomorrow. Seems like it's the other side of the firewall though
  11. Sounds is more pedal mechanism rather than clutch. I think it's just a dry joint, just hoping someone else has previously solved and knows where best to start
  12. Hi, Just gone for a drive and my clutch pedal sounds like the door of a haunted house. Ideal for Halloween but not for changing gears. Has anyone else has this before, and where is it likely coming from? Just needinh a bit of lube somewhere? Thanks
  13. I'm all for dashcams now, have just got a front rear facing one for mine. However in this case would the dashcam have caught anything at all? Or been any use? Given that the van pulled in to the side, and wouldnt catch the correct use of indicators etc by the Zed?
  14. I'd imagine ignition on engine off should show approx 12v anyway, given its a 12v battery (often only slightly above. ) Engine running should be higher
×
×
  • Create New...