niz

class - post pics of it all fitted up . I'd consider this as it's not too expensive

The reason is that they're total crap and were since they left the factory - Tiff Needell demonstrated it on the 5th gear review - look it up on you tube. I wondered if mine had just got worn/damaged but I think it's as "good as new". Now I'd love to know if there's a work around, uprated replacement or some other innovation that can improve this.

Does this fit 2004 cars and does it mate to other exhaust systems e.g. if I were to buy berk cats and a cobra exhaust. I'm in NI by the way

Just go genuine. Zmanalex will get you the best price. As far as I can tell there is alot aftermarket unbranded eBay Chinese stuff, you take your chances with that gear. It's a moving part with rubber bushes so yes it will fail again, but there's 74k on my car and that's probably the first failure, so I wouldn't worry too much about it. Fit a genuine part and forget.

quite simply a bang/thump from the front going over bumps - Narrowed it down to the drivers side as I could reproduce it easily by driving the right wheels over cats eyes. Did the new compression arm sort it? I now have the dreaded knocking and want to sort it soon! I've been on google trying to see if there are any upgraded versions around as I imagine sticking a new identical one on will have the same problem again in a few years, but I had no luck. 1-2 years ago I replaced the ARB drop links which got rid of that noise, but this noise is different and has slowly got louder and louder so I imagine this is the compression / banana arm too. Yes it's 100% now - You can uprate the bush but the ball joint is what it is. It's a wear and tear item.

quite simply a bang/thump from the front going over bumps - Narrowed it down to the drivers side as I could reproduce it easily by driving the right wheels over cats eyes.

Job done and fairly stress free for a change! - Advice I would give is get the whole front of the car well off the ground, blow torch and breaker bar essential for the bigger bolts - Impact gun is also great for whizzing them off. I got away without needing to use a ball-joint splitter as it popped out with a tap of the hammer but others might not be so lucky,

received here too - looks good cheers!

Royal pretty much refuse anything these days. Living in Northern Ireland I've struggled to get aerosols, fiberglass resin and the likes shipped. So you may need to lie about the contents or use someone like Hermes who don't seem to care (prepay online then just drop it into a shop somewhere).

pm zmanalex - He brings the parts from the US and A I think - don't go near Nissan.

I usually go blow torch before angle grinder - depending on my mood of course! I'll just be going with the procedure in the service manual then - cross bar off then compression arm. Plenty of plusgas on this stuff before the weekend then.

I feel kind of strange posting this as it surely must have been covered but I can't find anything. Before I start working on this, are there any guides for changing banana arms. Is there anything to watch out for? Or is it actually so simple I should just tear in and not worry?

I have some experience with similar adapters in a rav4 multichanger port. First one (connects2) I think was awful, shutdown after a few minutes, had a couple of those. Eventually got an xcarlink, it was ok, bit limited in that you had to put your mp3s into 6 folders to replicate the 6 CDS that the OEM head unit was expecting. The motivation to use this was to retain the stock display with temp and fuel computer. Long story short - you REALLY need a good reason to keep the factory head unit to put up with the absolute pain in the balls these adapters are.

I've just ordered some stuff of Alex I'll PM him quickly before he dispatches!

I've spotted many threads about windows but not on this particular topic: My passenger side window works fine if using the switch on the passenger door - However, if I use the switch on the drivers door it only goes down but won't come up. Any thoughts on this ? is it likely just to be that switch on the drivers door?

Yes I see they have a heavy duty variant. Probably is the way to go. Those eBay ones say they're for big spoilers but who knows how good they are

I have an aftermarket spoiler and a floppy boot lid so need good struts - anyone tried these? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NISSAN-350Z-COUPE-HATCHBACK-03-08-GAS-STRUTS-WITH-BIG-SPOILERS-INCLUDES-BRACKETS-/221800192383?hash=item33a452597f If not I'll just go for SGS ones as I have had success with them in the past.

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Febi Bilstein may be part of the Bilstein group but not necessarily the same company. General googling sounds like their stuff is ok.

Aye I was thinking if that is THE bilstein they must be worth a shot in the 15-20 quid bracket http://www.mister-auto.co.uk/en/anti-roll-bar/nissan-350-z-z33-3-5-280hp_v17435_g3229.html

I'm guessing those are uprated and more expensive? I'm thinking more along the lines of a standard OEM quality (cheaper) part. I've used blueprint and the likes on other cars without issue.

There's a fairly steady stream of them on gumtree in NI at the moment. I just waited my time for one that came up where someone was looking to upsize and traded

What are the opinion on aftermarket droplinks. I know noone seems to use the banana arms as they all seem to be unbranded items on ebay. However droplinks can be got from the likes of Febi Bilstein, Q-Drive, Herth+Buss - also I noticed Import Car Parts do a set. Any opinions?

Fellow NI member here! Just swapped my Mazda CX7 for one this week!

yes - the fastest one I believe!