Lewis_UK

The articles your reading from BBC and Daily Mail etc are from court today.

Original archived from 2015 350z-UK post: http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/102046-not-one-of-ours-i-hope-350quad-bike-crash/page__st__60

Daily Mail: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-4452210/Road-racers-drove-like-Fast-Furious.html

Very rarely do I see them featuring the might Zed,

What do Rev Up engines sell for these days ? Thinking of selling mine and putting something different in. Mine has 77k on.

Provided no oil burning or fluid leaks about £2000.

Last year or so I went through F1AutoCenters for new tyres all round and there £100 plus alignment.

When I started to suggest incorporating my "own" settings they basically cut me off saying "we're not allowed to" and that "Nissan give us stock alignment config and our machine tries to match it as best as possible.

So I guess if you want your own settings you have to go to a "proper"? alignment place if that's the case.

A little checking would have helped you

My pleasure.

http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/112038-uprev-pops-and-bangs-map-thank-you-guru-mark/

Good evening Ladies and Gentleman,

I was going to wait and see if anyone saw/posted this in this section, but I may as well post,

Start of the month was very sad, I had to part ways from my much loved and hated Zed

To cut a long story short, my Zed currently up for sale by RD Motors LTD,

Any potential buyer remember to...

Check engine number against log book...

Check the oil consumption....

Check for rust under rear and front suspension...

Any blowing from the Y-Pipe...

If there is any rear brakes left....

Check if passenger window operates...

Check some donut didnt fit post-06 front wheel arch liners to pre-06 front bumper...

Check how they managed to get it through an MOT 2days later with De-Cats fitted...

NOW from what I do remember:

Great sound, engine pulled lovely, solid clutch, solid gearbox.

I will be posting up all old parts I still have if anyone is interested.

Heres the 350z tax brackets:

VQ35DE = 273g/km (£295 for tax)

VQ35DE RevUp = 288g/km (£295 for tax if lucky or £515 after 06)

VQ35HR = 280g/km (£515 tax)

http://www.nextgreen.../car-tax/bands/

A Up to 100 g/km £0 £0 £0 £0

B 101-110 g/km £20 £0 £10 £0

C 111-120 g/km £30 £0 £20 £0

D 121-130 g/km £110 £0 £100 £0

E 131-140 g/km £130 £130 £120 £120

F 141-150 g/km £145 £145 £135 £135

G 151-165 g/km £185 £185 £175 £175

H 166-175 g/km £210 £300 £200 £290

I 176-185 g/km £230 £355 £220 £345

J 186-200 g/km £270 £500 £260 £490

K* 201-225 g/km £295 £650 £285 £640

L 226-255 g/km £500 £885 £490 £875

M Over 255 g/km £515 £1120 £505 £1110

Could also have had a SMF fitted.

Loads of chatter with them.

I myself only experience transmission whine on deceleration.

Just generally driving around after fitting decats + that amount of extra air may have an effect on the spark plugs,

But if you get it tuned properly after I can't seeing it being overkill,

I mean check out the design of this: https://www.torqen.uk/nissan/350z/engine/plenum-spacers/599-350z-de-kinetix-racing-velocity-manifold-intake-plenum--kx-vm-z33.htm

Either way, at base tune don't expect to run "perfect" with all mods combine listed, but after a tune you should see some good numbers and throttle response

Last thing...

It's now taking its sweet time to fire up after the car is warm.

(I re-did idle air volume learning too)

 

Defo sounds like Camshaft/Crankshaft Positon Sensor by that symptom, generally the 2 ontop of the engine.. Dont get aftermarket will do exactly the same.

 

Ah ok, I kept the original ones so I'll test one at a time.

 

How come the oem copies aren't the same?

Cheers for clarifying this!

I think its the programming/hardware used,

I brought the £20-£25/each jobbies on fleebay (Both the top engine ones) and done exactly as you explained.

Exactly same size etc, after 10mins when warmed up all went to hell. Turned out my sensors was fine (touch wood).

It seems Aftermarket Coil Packs are fine, but CPS no chance.

Hi Sly,

Just wanted to say I like the new radio ad that's being going on the couple of weeks or so.

Keep forgetting to note what station it was, either Radio 1, KMFM or Capital.

Business must be going good? ))

Anyways good stuff, keep it up, very catchy ad.

PS: Wish it was you voice on the ad Sly, but can understand why not xD

Last thing...

It's now taking its sweet time to fire up after the car is warm.

(I re-did idle air volume learning too)

Defo sounds like Camshaft/Crankshaft Positon Sensor by that symptom, generally the 2 ontop of the engine.. Dont get aftermarket will do exactly the same.

Rob, do remember you also have the camshaft/crankshaft position sensors that can cause "random" misfires.

Of course your process of elimination seems rational atm.

But from experience you could be spending a lot of time on coils when the issue could lie somewhere else.

PS: had a remap done a @ Abbey few months back, had fresh spark plugs fittted before tune, and the plugs that came out looks similar colour and shades to yours, and Mark did state "They look fine".

Good luck.

REG: LL55 ***

Ultra Yellow, Grey Rims, Absolutely Gorgeous!!!

Fair play

Spotted Chatham, Kent.

255 on an 8.5 rim would fit fine. heck a 265 could go on comfortably as well.

 

could always change the entire setup - go from 225/45 and 245/45 to 245/40 and 265/40.

 

if you don't have TCS on you don't need to worry too much about the correct ratio between front and rear diameters - but i'd try and keep them within 2% of standard.

 

on a related note, why do you want wider tyres, it is just a looks thing? cos it will affect the characteristics of the car, and if its more grip you're looking for you'd be better off upgrading the tyre, rather than just going wider.

 

Thanks for that.

 

More the look than anything. My Z still has the awful tyres I bought it with but they were basically new when I got it so didn't see wasting money changing them until they needed it.

 

Ive got spacers on, and just a tad more width and even the 1% increase in circumference are just what it needs to look bang on until I lower it.

 

The impression I get is wider means more steering in - anything else?

From my understanding, wheel spacers increase the track width, causing an increase in turn radius.

I've got 25mm Front at the moment (With the Zed already having a bad turning circle) it's hardly noticeable.

But, I believe that if you wheel spacer, you can then adjust the steering stop? in-turn giving more turning radius than stock? Due to the wheel not rubbing being spaced out.

Fitting a wider tyre without spacer I think would only make it worse.

P2138 can only be a couple of things,

Sensor (Obviously)

OR

Poor electrical connection circuit,

Did you splice any wires to fit the D1? Has limp mode gone away since EML reset?

I've just been doing some investigative work as I am in a similar situation in that my camber is messed up which I think is not only due to siezed camber bolts but also lowered suspension, on that note can you adjust the stock dampers and springs?

Factory Ride Height:

From Center of Wheel Cap -> Wheel Arch:

Front: 365mm - Rear: 385mm

I've just measured mine:

Front: 350mm - Rear: 355mm

So this has clearly been lowered (Or damaged) but I can see the current springs are black, so must be stock?

Any idea's?

Good evening Ladies and Gents,

So after reading this thread: http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/112747-advice-on-parts-needed/page__hl__camber

I decided to get alignment done, I knew it was out, but blimey...

Before:

Front:

Camber: Left Front -1.06' | -0.53' Right Front

Toe: Left Front -0.27' | 0.17' Right Front

Total Toe: -0.10'

Steer Ahead: -0.22

Rear:

Camber: Left Rear -2.59' | -4.33' Right Rear

T oe: Left Rear -0.05' | 0.23' Right Rear

Total Toe: 0.18'

Thrust Angle: -0.14'

After:

Front:

Camber: Left Front -1.14' | -0.51' Right Front

Toe: Left Front 0.02' | 0.02' Right Front

Total Toe: 0.04'

Steer Ahead: 0.00'

Rear:

Camber: Left Rear -2.57' | -4.33' Right Rear

Toe: Left Rear 0.01' | 0.09' Right Rear

Total Toe: 0.10'

Thrust Angle: -0.04'

They kind of sorted the front but basically the rear camber bolts are siezed and didn't want to attempt incase of snapping the bolts. So only got charged for front adjustment.

Now I have some questions, from what I've been reading you can't really adjust the rear camber, but generally if you lower the suspension.

But to be nearly -4.33' on the right rear? Ontop of that, all of my suspension looks completely stock, I do want to stay stock with abit of camber.

What are my options from here, I mean, if I buy new bolts can I get them adjusted to maybe -2.00', -2.50' with OEM rear camber arms?

The thread I linked above just generally states get adjustable ones, but surely if from what I can tell if the camber arms, springs and suspension are OEM, if I just get new bolts then I can get it adjusted properly?

Many thanks in advance.

Wait a minute when did the pops and bangs been able to be controlled by the cruise control button ? I really want that haha

The pops and bangs is controlled through using about 5-10% of throttle above 2,500RPM doing high RPM overrun (So your using fuel, but not enough to for the required throttle applcation/fuel injected to match cars current RPM)

I have got this done to a T now

If you have Cruise Control console, it techincally means you have different ECU with more "memory".

So I can only have 1 map, if you have CC you can have 5 maps I believe, allowing you to swap between different map settings, 1 eco, 1 pops and bangs etc etc.

Can I ask what equipment is required to perform this remap? I need to ask around tuners in Greece to see if they are able to do this.

You would have to PM Mark@AbbeyMS (that's even if he would share that information.)

A few weeks back my zeds engine management light came on and the zed only running on 5 cylinders periodically. It would only happen briefly. I took it to Japex and they plugged it into their computer which gave the reading of a previous fault on a coil pack/spark plug. Fault was cleared and all good until now.

 

The lights back on and she's running on 5 again but not all the time. Im thinking order a new set of coil packs and change them as the spark plugs are about 4 years and 10,000 miles old so should be ok?

 

Never assume that, I recently had UpRev done @ Abbey and changed 10,000 mile spark plug just before the remap just because. When I had showed Mark, he said they looked OK, when I told him they had only done 10,000 miles the look on he's face was of disbelief.

What Rob332 said, if it runs on 5 again. Leave it run a while and then check your plugs. All should be revealed.

Fresh MOT and out for a blast is good news.

TBH, I would not recommend running too long, otherwise it will cause bore wash, then you've gone from £100 jobbie to new engine.

Your on the right track buddy,

General diagnostics forme: Spark Plugs -> Coil Packs -> Cam/Crankshaft Position Sensors.

If it's still coming P0304 (Cylinder 4) and you replaced that Coil Pack and it seems alot better, could defo be wear/tear on the spark plugs.

http://www.eurocarpa...com/car-battery

 

Knock yourself out. Just enter your reg then pick one within budget. More CCA = less effort the battery will exert trying to start your car (basically), but more CCA = more expensive too.

Sound advice from Ekona as always,

Following on from this, from what I've read, you want 60/65Ah for non sat-nav and 70-75Ah for cars with bulti-in satnav,

The variance in prices is due to extended warrantly years (And also what Ekona states)

Do they have a website?

This is a very good price for Castrol EDGE.