Puffmac

I would have but the roof is brand new, the guy advised to keep it up for a while to let it stretch and shrink. It's sorted now, hopefully have another nice day sometime soon. Are you in Dumbarton? There's a black one up the road from me, I've never clocked the reg on it,I usually see it when i'm working. I stay up in Garshake, I've seen yours about in Dumbarton a few times. We should get out for a drive when the good weather comes!

'twas me! Clocked you at the last second, but I did return the wave! It's days like yesterday where I really wish I had the roadster, you should've had the roof down enjoying it - that could've been our 1 day of summer!!

This kind of tech is superb! I work in a ship yard where we use this technology to scan the units of the ship in as they are built in the fabrication shed, after which they can be directly compared to the CAD model which we have created to ensure it is within the build tolerances. What kind of tolerance in the model do you achieve with your scans? It'd be interesting to see if a scan of the engine bay and/or underside for example could be exported into a format readable by solid works or inventor. It would give you near OEM ability (given the right skills, of course) to design, optimise and integrate parts such as exhausts and manifolds.

I never thought the sticker on the boot lid would come in handy, as a non-golfer

Don't think my eyesight is that good!!

Got a wave off the driver of an orange 350 cab on my way home from work around 12.15, anyone on here?

There are a few in your area, however if you are ever up in Perth, then swing by and I will take you out in the 666bhp 350. which has a twin plate ATS Carbonetic fitted. I may have to find an excuse to come to Perth soon...

Lads (and Ladies), It's time for the flywheel debate once again. I'm due to replace the clutch at some point this year so I am going to start buying the bits soon just so I have them ready for when I need them. The question is: which flywheel? I know it's been debated to no end on here. However, I want to hear from people who have actually got a solid flywheel fitted. I've spent countless hours looking up videos of solid flywheels on cars that originally had a DMF, as well as reading the numerous threads on here. There are good arguments for and against both. I'm very keen on the benefits of a solid flywheel over the more complex DMF but I'm not going to lie: it's the potential noise from the gear backlash that scares me. I realise that it's a nuisance more than anything but I'm worried I'll get fed up with it as I've never been in a car that's been converted. From the few videos I could find with one on a 350Z the noise does seem quite loud. Is it really? Does it differ from car to car? The trade-off seems to be a heavier solid flywheel equivalent to the original flywheel rather than the lightened one - which Torqen does offer. It weighs in at 26lbs vs the factory 23lb flywheel. However, I still can't help but feel that without the springs on the flywheel to help absorb the pulses from the engine, the clutch springs still won't dampen the backlash entirely. Or will they? Does anybody have this (or a similar) flywheel fitted? Is there anyone near Glasgow that has a solid flywheel fitted that I could meet so I could hear it? Am I over thinking this? Someone get me a beer... Cheers!

PMd!

There's a guy in my work who also has a black HR 350Z. I only spoke to him once very briefly on the way in one morning, but I've went out to the car at night and found him parked next to me on a few occasions! Mine's always cleaner mind

Bought it when I was 20, now 21

Think I paid £1.15 for it last week when I filled up. It annoys me though - last year when fuel was £1.35, vpower was always about 5p more per litre, but now that regular unleaded is down to £1.05 or less it seems to be around 10p or more per litre.

Cheers!

Is matte black the one I'm looking for? Going to order it the now and can't find any satin black plastidip, but matte comes up so assuming matte/satin is the same thing! Forgive me if this is a daft question!

Cheers guys! Did you have to spray the whole thing or just the damaged bit?

I tried shoe polish but it didn't seem to take. Maybe I was using the wrong brand/technique

Hi Guys, I was cleaning my interior the other week and noticed the "paint" has come off of the gear surround revealing the grey plastic: I think I was a bit too vigorous with the cloth and I was dusting everything , but hey ho. What would be the best way to go about repairing it? It's a facelift, if that helps, not sure if the plastics on the pre-facelift gear surround were any different.

The JDM satnav is useless in the UK and you'd need to swap it with a UK one to get it working. As for the seals, try AutoGlass?

I believe the HR was the "fix", and was probably never intended for the 350Z. This is evident the fact the original 350Zs had grooved bonnets as well as the replacement 370Z - yet the HR 350Zs had a bulged bonnet (bare with me here while I attempt to explain my absurd reasoning!). The RevUp was introduced for the 2006 model year with the facelifted model, and was probably intended to last the remaining 3 years of the car's life cycle. However, there was a lot of noise from the USA about the oil consumption issue, with Nissan attempting engine replacements under warranty (sometimes more than once) to solve the problem. I think when they realised they couldn't solve the issue (at least in a short period of time) and that legal action in the States was imminent, they panicked. It was then decided that as a quick and easy fix for the last couple of years and to save their reputation, they would take the freshly engineered VQ35HR, developed for the brand new 2007 model G35, and integrated into the 350Z in a hurry for the 2007 model year. The bulged bonnet was designed in order to "fit" the taller HR into the existing space the DE occupied without carrying out the more detailed and more expensive modifications to the chassis/engine required to have the engine sit lower to retain the original styling. It would appear that this compromise in styling was deemed acceptable in order to get the new car ready as quickly and cheaply as possible. The replacement 370Z (only a couple of years later) then revived the original intended Z car design with a grooved bonnet. Of course, this is speculation based on my own research. Feel free to discuss and/or rip my theory to bits!

I was at a place on South Street, Scotstoun called Trim Workshops to get a quote for leather repair on my seat. They also do convertible roofs and they appear to have a Z on their website as well so might be worthwhile giving them a try.

The AA and RAC carry a tool to remove locknuts without the key. They use an impact drive and it basically forms to the shape of the locknut (had to get them out to one of my old cars as the lock nut was chewed and wouldn't grip). If you have cover with either give them a ring, although you may have to tell them you have a flat tyre to get them to send someone.

I work in shipbuilding, the amount of funny words you hear in that industry is fascinating: flange; nipple; c*ck; shaft and penetration, to name but a few are all meaningful technical words in the right context, yet hilarious when you have the mind of a 5 year old and caught off guard. Anyway back on topic. Someone help this man with his bush!!

was rev matching not enough? i'm in the habit of trying to rev match while changing gears. means less strain on the sync and faster gear changes. but a double de-clutch is the momma of all gear change manoeuvres If by rev matching you mean "blipping" the throttle when the clutch is depressed before bringing it back up then that's only half the story. In doing so, you're only setting the engine speed to the correct speed for the gear you're selecting (which will still stop the car lurching when you re-engage the clutch). However, because the clutch is still disengaged, the input side of the gearbox isn't speeding up with the engine, which means the synchros will still have to do all the work to speed up the input side of the gearbox to match the output side as you press the gearstick into gear. When double declutching, you dip the clutch, put the car in neutral and then bring the clutch up again. Then either "blip" the throttle to speed up the engine and gearbox for a downshift, or let the revs drop for an upshift. Doing this, you are matching the input gears to the speed of the output gears, allowing them to mesh easily. Finally, press the clutch in and select the gear. This is all done in one quick action in practise, and can be completed in the same time as a normal gear change by an experience driver. Synchronisers were devised to remove the requirement to do this, but doing so can make for much smoother shifts and educes synchro wear, particularly on the bigger downshifts (6th to 3rd for example). Also a vital skill if synchros are fecked .

In case anybody else encounters this. I spoke to a Nissan technician and he said that alarms will often react this way, in case someone has unplugged the alarm to steal the car or whatever. He suggested plugging it in and leaving it as it may turn off on its own, however he admitted he was guessing a bit, as he hadn't seen many 350Zs. Anyway, he recommended I at least try it and see - what's the worst that could happen: some upset neighbours and a few angry dogs . Anyway, following on from his advice I decided I would give it a go but by disconnecting the battery first. That way, my head wouldn't be buried in the wheel well right next to the bloody speaker this time! I then done the following: disconnected the battery tried to open the boot realised I'm an arse reconnected the battery opened the boot disconnected the battery plugged in the alarm siren shut the boot unplugged the the bonnet alarm sensor As expected, when I reconnected the battery the alarm went off instantly. However, I was not expecting to find that when I hit the key fob to turn it off it actually worked. Voila! Reconnected the bonnet sensor, shut the bonnet and sat in the car, locked it and waved my arms about like a fud, only to be met with an ear splitting screech that confirmed the alarm was working! Once again the key fob deactivated it. Job jobbed . I just thought I'd post this in case anyone else runs into this situation. I know it's a nightmare when you search the internet for something and come across a forum post where the OP disappears and never posts the solution!