Jump to content

Snjur

Members
  • Posts

    1,077
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Snjur

  1. 34 minutes ago, The Chubby Ninja said:

    Thanks for the info snjur. That sounds like a good tested setup then! I think I will go for the nismo thermostat and skunk 2 rad then. Do you ever get over cooling during normal driving?

    Nope. As you know VQ is prone to extensive heat production even when stock.

     

    After this cooling upgrade with Nismo thermostat and Skunk2 Alpha rad even in cool weather coolant temp is behaving exactly the same like stock. Temperature needle is pointing behaving same like car was stock and with stock cooling system.

     

    For me this system works flawlessly in normal driving and on track.

     

    Plus I'm on stock fans and they are not kicking in much at all.

    And i do not have AC system and radiator from AC 

  2. Was recently a discussion on Mishimoto rad's. There are numerous cases of stock car overheating in daily driving.

     

    Had it on my Greddy Twin Turbo and from start i had overheating issues in normal traffic once i was halted behind lorries or in slow driving. On track 2 fast laps and temperature goes up.

     

    No need to mention on numerous hours and methods spent to bled the system.

     

    On the end i ditched their racing thermostat and went with Nismo one and Skunk2 Alpha rad. With this car was abuses on track for 40 laps and coolant temp never went more than 93°C

  3. 7 minutes ago, davey_83 said:

    Interesting those magnets for the oil filter, never quite know if they've worked or not. With a conventional filter, removal of the filter might be tough with the brace still attached.

    Have no idea, I've heard for them so I decided to give them a try. 

     

    On next oil change I will cut oil filter with grinder so will see if they manage to hold any metal particles

  4. Stealth look completed!

     

    Quick photo as I need to clean bit engine bay before a proper picture. 

    Remains to replace blue silicone hose from radiator to expansion jar to complete all black look.

     

    Strut bar as well as new intake aluminium pipe have been powder coated in black.

     

    I think to an amateur and untrained eye it is hard to notice any changes inside engine bay. Once all properly cleaned it will look almost like OEM

     

    Just a few revs with new camshafts and car feels completely different on throttle than with OEM cam. Since we still didn't tuned the car on dyno I haven't tested it aside of reving it. But Rpm needle is jumping much faster with this cams and throttle is reacting instantly on touch.

     

    Cant wait to hit the dyno and test acceleration and behaviour of the car

     

     

    IMG_20180127_164510.thumb.jpg.09f3b4678933b46f78bd01e0834cbd40.jpg

    VID_20180127_164320.mp4

    • Like 2
  5. Today I've managed to resolve a problem of a stick clutch pedal.

     

    I was sure it was a slave cylinder so I have purchased replacement one from Torqen.

    Replaced it this afternoon but... Again we had a hard time bleeding the system.

    After looking and inspecting all the system in the end RJM clutch pedal was loose and once tightened we managed to get nice pedal feel.

     

     

    Secondly I want to replace Greddy Air filters which came with this kit. We found out on buddy's Greddy TT they are restricting air flow. They did a dyno run without Greddy air filter they had gains of almost 30 hp.

    Did some measurements today so i will give a shot to KN RC9980 air filters. Hope they will fit.

     

     

    Also purchased few goodies for oil. KN oil filter and magnetic brace which is mounted on oil filter in order to collect any metal particles that may be found in oil

     

    Still pending is to paint Intercoler in black to have more stealth look, fabricate main intake pipe from IC to throttle and replace few bushings on rear end.

     

    61Dlm6bB-9L._SY355_.jpg

    oil-filter-magnet_02.jpg

  6. I have these what buster attached and im 99% sure it's exact one.

     

    I have Sparco R100 and comparing to OEM ones they do sit bit lower but not so much.

     

    Same problem im facing on track with helmet on. I just need extra inch.

     

    Also passenger one is not "ideal" as its only secured by 3 bolts so i will need to cut and weld additional inch of steel in order to secure it with all 4 bolts.

     

    But for this price they are best buy

  7. Another cool upgrade will be 2 x 2.4 inch OLED screens which will replace factory OIL pressure gauge and Voltmeter for battery.

     

    They will be connected to Haltech and will  transmit real-time data of choosen options. Very soon they will be done so i will post video but with 2 data choosen on screen is very visible and quite easy to monitor. 

     

     

     

  8. So Kelford cams are installed.

    Remaining few bits and pieces to sort out before heading to dyno and seeing numbers.

     

    Also we need to fabricate main intake pipe from IC to throttle from aluminium. All elbows have arrived just need to weld it and powder coat it to black.

    IMG-20180120-WA0048.jpg

    IMG-20180120-WA0039.jpg

    IMG_20180124_154815_HHT.jpg

    • Like 1
  9. 1 minute ago, TT350 said:

    Plenty of turbos have a T3 flange. I feel it's better to have a turbo that isn't absolutely maxed out like yours will be. 

     

    I will upgrade mine to GTX2876R's as they're the biggest I can get ony T25 flange. 

     

    You can ways sell your turbos. They'd go quickly on a Subaru owners club.

    More reason to upgrade them later on of they fail :)

    They are old technology turbos but quite reliable.

     

    Who know maybe in future i will go with something more modern like ball bearing but let us see first what numbers will be with cams now.

     

    I recall i have read theses are in theory 450/500 hp capable turbos

     

  10. 10 hours ago, TT350 said:

    Why not just get bigger turbos to get your 700bhp? If all the ancillary parts can cope too.

    I was thinking on it but... Than i need new manifolds plus new turbines it's quite costly.

     

    We are just now in progress of installing Kelford Cams T182 which are Turbo spec cams.

     

    I'm hoping that with cams we are going to get this extra what in top end to overpass 700 bhp.

     

    If not than i will go with Methanol

  11. 11 minutes ago, KyleR said:

    I think one problem with the Zed is the exhaust hangs quite low, it's usually the Y and mid pipe that scrape speed bumps first, so in order to fit a flat bottom, brackets would need made for it to hang low enough to clear it and with it being made possibly from plastic, would need to clear it enough to prevent it melting, which in turn lowers the ground clearance by quite a lot. In a lot of cars that come from the factory with flat bottoms they have cut outs for low sections of the exhaust to fit through and that complicates the whole project.

    Hopefully I'm exaggerating as I'd love this to happen, especially if you plan to make more than 1 ;)

    Abbey might be able to help, they have something similar on their 350 drag car.

    We will start with paperboard templates first before we start material selection. Aluminium would be the best some 2 mm thickness only thing which concerns me with aluminium is in cases of things going wrong it can become quite hazardous on highway/track. Abs plastic maybe with some heat resistant/protective materials on top side under hot elements.

     

     

  12. 10 hours ago, Doom said:

    I'd certainly be interested in something that actually improved aerodynamic performance rather than the general collection of mostly aesthetic splitters and diffusers that are currently available =)  I mean, it's good to look great, but if they deliver some real benefits too that would be excellent ^_^

    This is performance driven project. Goal is to get more downforce. Few ideas already on how and where to start but all will be posted here. 

    Also any comments and ideas or discussion are more than welcome as we are just a bunch of enthusiast and not professionals in aerodynamics.

     

    From mine point of view I reckon it would be easiest to combine front and rear section of the car. Similar to GTR on pictures above and than see that can be done with Mid section and if it can be easily joined with front and rear

  13. Finally Work Emotion T7R 2 piece from StevoD.

     

    For now front ones are poking out. Will need to see what can be done there as car is on stock geometry settings. Maybe if I go with more agressive camber like 2° degrees they will line with arches. 

     

    I was afraid how they will look on car due to center colour but in person they look awesome 

    IMG_20180110_155947.jpg

    IMG_20180110_155917.jpg

    IMG_20180110_161040.jpg

    IMG_20180110_155836.jpg

    IMG_20180110_155927.jpg

    • Like 2
×
×
  • Create New...