M.1

Hi mate, It's the lower track control arm I'm looking for not the compression/banana arm. Cheers anyway

Hi all, I'm currently looking for a N/S lower control arm with intact bushes, currently my N/S lower control arm bushing is worn completely and is now up against the sub frame so naturally it will need replaced, I could obviously just replace the bush however I know from previous experience just how annoying it can be to do this. Cheers.

Welcome to the forums, lots of friendly helpful advice here.

Just noticed Nissan have sent me a video of the issue (must be to save them explaining) Below is the section of the harness/loom that is apparently causing the issue. They have said the live wire is sending an erratic signal to the ECU causing the rev and starting issue. By the looks of things it seems on first view easy enough to patch/fix without going for a full harness. Anyone had a problematic issue or the same experience regards this? Yep Bems when I got the call today my thought was Alex haha. Might be fixable without the full harness

The solution has been found. Car was with Nissan all week as I was working away got the car back and they have said that the wiring harness/loom is bad which has lead the o2 sensors being shorted/high voltage(nothing specific with regards to which part of the harness) so they have suggested that they should replace the Harness/loom but have given me a price of £1600 for the job. My mechanic has suggested I find out which part of the harness is knackered and they can essentially cut out the old wiring and replace it/solder it back on with new wires. Anyone know what the best course of action would be with this one? I always assume Nissan take the p*ss when it comes to prices however I'm not sure on the price it would be for a harness replacement etc. Would I be best getting a second hand HR harness (not sure if DE would work) or even if it's possible to use a second hand harness or would I be best replacing the harness with a brand new one? Any suggestions welcome. Mark I'll PM you via abbey's email for reference.

Welcome to the forum mate, I'm from an EK9 background so we're roughly on the same peg. I've had my HR for a year now and it still puts a smile on my face.

Pm'd you mate. Cheers. Update on this; My local garage where as good as useless. Nissan are going down the route of the following; Bad Fuel pump ie not maintaining pressure on cold starts, Bad injector(s) Cam or Crank positioning sensors or Throttle Body problems.

Welcome mate

Back from working away this week, started the car up the code has vanished, now I have a code of P0171 Bank 1 too lean. Nissan are now suggesting there might be a vacuum leak somewhere or something in the fuel system has went bad causing lack of fuel pressure on cold starts then too much pressure when hot ie fuel pump, injector or regulator problem. I reset the P0171 code and so far it's not come back, dropping the car off at Nissan tomorrow for an extensive week test, this is what happens when the car is run from cold and now more so even when the engine has heated to optimal temp https://www.youtube....eature=youtu.be, also when the car finally manages to run it drives fine however occasionally the revs almost stutter like it's going to suddenly cut out for almost 1-2 seconds whilst driving, I've noticed when revving the engine when the RPM's drop back down the tac seems to stick at 1.5k for literally 0.5 seconds before dropping back to 800-1k idle speed. Another thing I've noticed is sometimes when the revs stick if you turn the A/C on the rev's have been known to jump back to normal and the car drives. I got stuck at work after leaving the car parked up for 4 hours, car literally would not come out of this rev mode for 20-30 minutes, turned the A/C on and it jumped into life, which is strange, I can hear a very slight hiss coming from Bank 1 at the top of the intake pipe but I've tried having a listen for a specific pipe round that area that the noise is coming from can't seem to triangulate which one it is or if it's normal Mark I'd give you a ring for advice however I work long hours so finding the time is a bit of an issue.

Hi Mark, my apologies it completely slipped my mind that you had replied. However I think we have finally found the issue, car finally threw a code this morning whilst stuck in this low rev mode type thing. Code I got was P0158 - 02 Sensor Circuit High Voltage, Bank 2, Sensor 2. Had a look at the symptoms of this fault and it's almost identical to what my car has.

Just an update on this (Only updating just in case people come across the same issue and don't know what it is) Took the car back to the specialist as mentioned above, they tested the MAF's both read fine and are working correctly, so that rules that out. We are now thinking along the lines of a fueling issue, ie fuel pump, injectors etc. I know my Fuel pressure regulator is knackered as it's doing the infamous ticking noise and has been doing the last 6-7 months, does anybody know if this would cause a significant issue as above. The fact that it wont rev above 1k RPM on a cold start suggests maybe there is not enough pressure getting sent to the injectors and when it finally warms up perhaps it's sending too much fuel into the system causing exhaust to spill out white strong petrol smelling smoke. Next monday I'm leaving the car with them for a few days to check the fuel system when left in the cold and when left in a heated environment, the issue seems to occur the worst when it's cold, when it's warmish outside the car has minimal issue's however still over fuels slightly. Will report back next week

I have a technician doing this tomorrow, going to take the car a run and have a look at how the car is running. After changing the plugs over the car starts as normal now. However if you drive the car from a solid cold start and instantly drive it without warming up the engine rev's die about 10 minutes into a journey and you are unable to rev above 1,000 RPM (No engine warning lights show when this happens). I've been told that if the MAF fails or fails to read an air source then the engine only lets in enough fuel for idle hence the reason why the car won't rev past 1k-1.5k . We're essentially going to work from the MAF's up then have a look at the readings from the Crank/Cam sensor and finally the coolant temp sensors (I have replaced the coolant temp sensor so this one is unlikely but still worth a try). The car at the moment is running with reduced power and there is a slight bog down at 1.5k - 2.5k revs when driving normally, almost like the engine wants to hold back within this rev range, I did unplug both MAF's and took it a small drive around the block in limp mode and noticed that the car had no power loss between 1-2.5k revs, I also noticed when I plugged the MAF's back in then reset the code for around 15 minutes the car ran with normal power however then went back to running rich and having lack of power.

Welcome mate.

So. I've taken the car to Nissan who then proceeded to tell me my plugs should be changed and that they think it's a plug issue. After buying some plugs and changing them the car has run *ok* still running with a slight loss of power and running rich still. Took a drive tonight as the car hasn't been used much all weekend, get onto the road and the power dies *sigh* and won't let me rev past 1k rpm, had to turn the car on and off again a few times and the car rev's like normal, managed to get the car back to the house, they have advised taking the car back to them if the problem persists. When I mentioned to them about a failing MAF they said it would throw a code/warning light, surely if the MAF is partially failing then the car is still noticing airflow hence no warning light etc? Tomorrow I'm going to have them test both MAF's and TBPS's.

Bumping an old thread here, however this happened to myself this winter/now. Car starts fine when the air temp is warmer however when it's cold the car starts then cuts out. Just changed over the plugs (sitting at 40k = 6 years) and I've changed the coolant temp sensor, Funnily enough my car doesn't rev past 1k when this problem occurs, I have to wait until the car warms up fully then I have to turn the car off and on before it allows me to drive, my TB could very well need cleaning/replaced also. We'll see how it gets on. I think to be honest the 350 is just generally a bad cold starter.

I do indeed, nothing stored on mine, it also shows live data but nothing jumps out at me. I've had a few mechanics look the past few weeks and they all are 100% sure it's a censor, it's just finding the one that's causing the issue. For some reason I'm swaying towards replacing both MAF's to see if that works, the only reason is I'm thinking this is because when I cleaned them last week the car started fine and it was particularly cold that week, it started all week apart from the Thursday where I encountered troubles again, I have a feeling one of them is on it's way out but it's not quite failed hence the reason for the lack of codes. I've cleaned both again tonight so if all is well tomorrow morning then I'll know that it's likely a MAF problem..hopefully anyway.

video in this link doesnt work buddy Stupid facebook links, I've uploaded onto youtube in a 2 video playlist of the car's problem, first video is what I get when attempting to start second video is what I get when it finally starts https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLeM4iUDEcuuQZVzOmmkgX4x5nwD-RG9Ne

So over the last week I've been busy trying to fix this problem as it really is a pain. Took it to Nissan to check for any codes, no codes stored car isn't throwing any either, as the car starts when it's warm they were unsure so wanted to keep it with them for a few days whilst they look into it, they did mention however they will still charge me by the day, so I was absolutely not up for that considering it would likely run into the hundreds. I brought the car back, decided to clean both MAF's car ran fine and started every morning for a week (thought I had initially solved the problem) then 2 days ago I went to over take a cyclist, slowed down to 20 went to pull away in second gear and it went into limp mode or wouldn't rev above 1.5k rpm. Had to pull into a lay by, turned the car off and back on the car then reacted normally and pulled away without any issue's, the next morning I tried to start the car and again the car wouldn't start as seen; https://fbcdn-video-f-a.akamaihd.net/hvideo-ak-xpa1/v/t43.1792-2/10565310_1040858129272256_932686218_n.mp4?rl=1500&vabr=982&oh=24077f38072a7f691f14c5d646a8f11e&oe=54D77B5B&__gda__=1423407872_62f37e6f500a5bf94d0b22c8444395f3 Now ever since the car went into limp mode that day, the car will not start when left for a period of time, the only way the car starts is if you give it some gas when turning the ignition key on even then it takes a good 4-5 times, the car also get's stuck in limp mode until it's warmed up then I need to turn it off and back on again to be able to drive away. I've also changed the coolant temperature sensor yesterday, I had thought again this has solved the problem as the car felt a lot smoother to drive, but again I've went to start the car this afternoon and it's acting up again. It's like working blind on this one simply because the car isn't throwing any codes, the engine management light also isn't on. So I'm still completely baffled.

This thread is brilliant, definitely going to invest in a few of these, those grip tight sockets look very useful.

Should be it now, going into Nissan next friday, hopefully will get to the bottom of it.

Update; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bg5Q5q1Bgoc&feature=youtu.be This is what it's currently doing on start up (seems to be worse when it's cold) car usually starts without too much trouble when the weather is above 0c. Done this for about 2 minutes and now wont come out of limp mode.

Think I've managed to trace it down to a bad MAF censor(s). Decided to check my filters after this bad weather and noticed they were essentially full of crap, I'm going to clean the censors this weekend, however I did pull the electrical connectors that attach to the MAF off and plugged them back in again to see if the ECU noticed any changes, the engine management light is now on (which in my case is at least a clue), the car funnily enough is now running a lot smoother and isn't going intermittently into safe mode. Going to get another computer plugged in this weekend as I'm now 90% sure it will now finally throw a code. I'm also going to clean the MAF's this weekend also just in case. I've had a look online about the symptoms of a bad/dirty MAF and it all points to the same issue's I'm having. Here's hoping. I'll jump back on this thread with an update; just in case anybody else has the same issue, they can hopefully refer to my experiences.

Very detailed reply, thanks for this mate. I've got all weekend to have a look so I'll have a look then. Funnily enough I've been searching for days for a potential problem, the only thing that's throwing me off is the fact my check engine light has yet to come on but I guess if it's intermittent then it may not come on. Cheers mate.

Update on this; took it to my mechanic who checked to see if the car was throwing codes, turns out no codes are logged or stored, so back to square one. They reckon there is a censor somewhere going bad but can't do much until complete failure worryingly.

I think your right, got the car last march just had a look through the service history and I can't see any plug changes.